There can’t be a cheap and effective measure to ensure longevity of basement walls than proper Air -Sealing in basements. Besides, it also helps conserve energy. Basement air sealing prevents warm heated air from escaping and cold winter air from entering the heated space. By this method minor cracks or openings of the building are sealed using weather stripping, foam, caulk and other materials. According to the American Department of study, basement air sealing lowers space heating consumption by 18 to 30 percent.

HOW AIR INFILTRATES

The external cold air enters the house through various wide and hairline openings and cracks during thewindy or cold weather. Irrespective of the fact that  the basement is old or new, the best recommended strategy is to reduce air leakage to the greatest extent by maintaining  controlled ventilation.

PRIORITIES

Though outside walls, doors and windows are the main source for air leakage,  small cracks and openings hidden from normal view permits air leakage considerably. Many homeowners are unaware that cold air leaks into the house through small openings around the window frames and doors and even through chimneys and fireplaces. External air also enters living space from other unheated portions of the house, such as crawl spaces, basements and attics. Also known as bypasses, these pathways and openings connect the house to the basement, crawlspace or attic. To effectively reduce the air-infiltration, it is important to seal the big cavities, followed by penetrations and large cracks and the smaller seams and gaps.

AREAS THAT NEED TO BE WATCHED FOR AIR LEAKS

Air enters the building through cracks in ceilings, floors or walls, where the two walls meet and where the wall meets the interior door frame or ceiling. The other openings to watch out for include gaps through and around switch boxes and electrical outlets, recessed cabinets and lighting fixtures. One also needs to check the false ceilings such as bathroom soffits, kitchen soffits and pull-down stairs.

 Shower stall units and behind the bath tubs, plumbing connections, various floor cavities of finished attics located adjacent to several unconditioned attic spaces.

Often, these over-looked gaps of the house are more responsive to air leaks than the greater and obvious fissure found around doors and windows. As most leakage paths are driven based on the tendency of warm air to rise, very often, it is the attic that is the best and easiest place to stop the leaks. Before working on the attic insulation, sealing the leaks is highly important as the insulation would hide them, making them less accessible and the receptive points for external air. Air can blow in to the house if the cracks are not sealed prior to insulation thereby not allowing the desired level of energy savings.The dust carried by the external air stains the insulated area thus indicating the presence of cracks in the building.

Below are some openings to look out for:-

 Top openings of wall cavities of interior partitions, situated  in and around chimney

 Around the entry door or attic trap door

 Areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings, in and around the pipes (look behind your toilets and underneath your sinks) and

 Ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall

 The other areas to watch out for leaks are situated in the ductwork, wiring penetrations, plumbing chases through top plates of walls and in-between conditioned and attic space

 Bypasses happen at the framing’s key junctures (like attic-to-knee wall transitions), allowing huge quantities of air to leak in and out of the house. The band joist for door rough openings in the walls, windows, exterior sheathing, and drywall are primary spots for air leakage. The right materials are to be used to seal the leaks permanently.

WHICH MATERIALS TO BE USED

Many materials are available from home improvement stores or local hardware stores to seal the air links. To apply, you can use a combination of various air-sealing materials. Below is the list which offers guidelines and description to utilize the materials.

CAULK

It seals less than ½” gap. Select the grade (high temperature, exterior, interior) based on the area of application and go through the  cleanup and application information instructed by the manufacturer. .

SPRAY FOAM

Helps fill small holes and large cracks. It could be messy if not very careful. Latex-related foams are the best suggested in spray foams. It is advised not to use this near flammable areas of the building.

BACKER ROD

Rope caulk or closed-cell foam. Simply press into gap or crack with putty knife or screwdriver. Very often, the backer rod is used along with door rough openings and cracks around window sill.

 House Wrap: This is usually installed over exterior sheathing. It needs to be sealed with caulk or house wrap tape which forms airtight seals. Though it resists water, it isn’t a vapor barrier.

 Insulation: Several forms of insulation could be utilized to stuff large bypasses or holes only when they are used with various other air sealing materials.

 Sheet goods (rigid foam, drywall and plywood insulation): These materials help to form air barriers. Usually, the air leaks at unsealed penetrations or seams.

 Sheet metal: This is used with high temperature caulk to seal various components such as chimneys and flues.

Polyethylene plastic: These inexpensive materials, when used for air sealing purposes, stop the diffusion of vapor. For effective air barrier, all penetrations and edges need to be completely sealed off. As poly tears easily, it has to be well placed to prevent the warm inside air from penetrating out through the ceilings or walls.

 Storm window Kits: These are available at any hardware or home improvement store. You can easily apply them over leaky windows.

 Weather stripping: You can use them to seal various moveable components, like attic accesses, windows and doors.

 Foil-faced or mastic tape: This seals all duct connections, joints and air handlers. For clean surfaces, always apply foil tape.

Using the above mentioned air-sealing materials, you can treat the below mentioned areas:-

 Upper portions of wall cavities of interior partition wall – Just staple plastic sheets over openings and seal them near edges with high quality caulk material.

 Around chimneys – pack gaps around insulated chimney with unfaced fiber glass insulation or rock wool.

 Avoid sealing hot and bare flue pipes with various combustible products.

 Around the entry door or attic trap door – just weather strip the edges. On the attic side of the door, place rigid foam insulation.

 For areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings – simply staple plastic sheet over openings, sealing them with high quality caulking material around the edges.

 Look around the pipes (behind your toilets and under the sinks) and ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall – tightly packed insulation into gaps. You can also fill the area around it with polyurethane foam.

 On some occasions, the joints between floors and walls permit easy passage of air between the outdoor attic area and the heated part of the house. You can easily search for these joints in the space over porch ceiling or in the attic.

 Generally, these air leakage paths are found in Cape Cod type houses or in those instances when the attic space is transformed into living space. Similar arrangements take place when the second floor of three floored house appear larger than the ground floor, with overhand outdoors.

 A large source of air leakage is the joints located between the side walls and porch roof. If you can reach such areas, you can stop the leaks by covering the openings with plywood.

 If you find the areas difficult to reach, you can reduce the air leakage greatly by injecting foam insulation or high density insulation to the joints, reducing their air pathways.

 And, if the windows leak excessively, consider installation of plastic storm window kit, which is inexpensive and easy to install.

AIR SEALING

Before weather stripping, adjust the door to improve the seal. Also check the catch plate to ensure that the door shuts tightly against weather stripping. In an area where the floor meets the door, see to it that the threshold is adjusted to minimize infiltration. If the threshold isn’t sealed properly or is missing, you can install the weather seal. To improve door seal, simply install the door sweep. Though storm doors are advisable, they won’t be cost effective like storm windows. Duct leaks help reduce the amount of cooled or heated air which gets delivered into living spaces. In several older houses which have forced – air furnace, nearly 20 % of heated air is wasted through leaks, without getting delivered to the living spaces.

As compensation, homeowners simply turn the thermostat up, to receive the heat they require, which unnecessarily raise their heating bills. A highly effective conservation measure would be to seal all the duct leaks. While sealing the ducts, you can ensure that you use proper foil tape or mastic tape. The fabric type duct tape turns out to be highly ineffective as the adhesive dries after six months.

Homeowners can stop leaks from doors and windows either by weather stripping and caulking or by simply installing the plastic storm window kits from home improvement or hardware stores. Sealing of basement air leaks need attention to detail as even small leaks may cause significant loss of heat. Adequately sealed homes offer a comfortable environment, saving energy and unnecessary hassles for homeowners. If you feel that you are spending much on your electric bills in the event of heating your house, think about a professional who can help you identify and fix the concealed gaps and help you save energy.

If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems, call us at 800-771-3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html.

You may also contact Aaron Stull -IAQA expert on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

ABOUT

French drain, also known as ‘drain tiles’ or ‘land tiles’, are trenches filled with gravel, sand or rocks. Their main function lies in diverting water away from a particular location. They protect buildings and homes from permanent damage caused by water infiltrating through building foundations.

The main purpose of  French drain is water distribution, for instance, water running out of standard sewage treatment systems. Additionally, internal French drains are commonly used behind retaining walls (building structure that keeps rock and dirt away) to ease the pressure caused by large volumes of water.

HISTORY

The French drains, in its initial stages, were simple and basic trenches placed from high to low elevation and filled with gravel and rocks. It was Henry French from Massachusetts who created the tiles that modern French drains consist of.

Newer varieties of French drains have perforations while other variants include filter drains, collector drains, fin drains and dispersal drains.

TYPES OF INTERNAL FRENCH DRAINS (BASED ON INSTALLATION)

French drains are installed around building foundations in two ways. The first is by burying tiles against the foundation walls on the exterior. The second is by installing drain tiles on the interior side of the basement below the basement floor.

HOW TO INSTALL A FRENCH DRAIN

1. Digging a Trench: French drain is constructed by digging a trench of varying width and depth. A depth of 8 to 12 inches and a width 5 to 6 inches are the most common size that satisfies most drainage requirements.

2. Ensuring a nice slope: Grading and survey issues are the critical elements for water to actually flow in the right direction. Check extremely short drainage stretches to ensure there exists a slope of at least 0.5 percent and a grade of 1 or 2 percent.

3. Fill it With Gravel: Now add gravel to the trench leaving some inches off its surface. The gravel need to measure roughly between 0.5 and 1 inch.

4. Covering with coarse sand: Now fill the top layer with 3 to 4 inches of coarse sand. This permits the growth of turf so that the underlying trench is camouflaged. Remember – the sand must be coarse. Otherwise, proper water drainage won’t occur.

5. Turfing the trench: You can either turf through seeding or simply permit them to grow from adjacent sands, especially if it is of a spreading variety. You may even lay grass over sand. For this, ensure the soil is removed from grass roots, so that the sand doesn’t get contaminated with finer soils

6. For internal drain systems the sloped pipe will run to a drain or dewatering pump which will transport the water to a desired location. Moreover, the top of the drain would be covered by a vapor barrier and then concrete to be flush with the existing floor. (We will discuss interior french drains in greater detail in the future)

FRENCH DRAIN ANATOMY

Originally, the French drain was just a trench filled with round-shaped river rock. The principle idea behind it was that the trench would provide the nearby surface water a place to sit while it slowly dissipated to the soil below. Considering the amount of rainfall received each year in the United States, just giving the water a place to sit isn’t enough. Rather, give a viable outlet to the water. This is the main reason why most drainage firms use drainage pipes for internal French drains.

An French drain is typically covered with geotextile socks that keep it free from debris and silt. Additionally, its drain pipe can be connected to green space, sump well or other such outlets.If the French drain is placed beneath the lawn, the drain can get encapsulated in the landscape fabric replacing grass and soil on the top. If placed outside the lawn, a river bed of 6 to 8 inch width on the top may get created which is both functional and decorative. In this system, the surface water goes straight through river dock to the pipe below getting carried to the water outlet.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

What is Humidex?

Humidex is an appliance that uses target-specific and controlled ventilation as opposed to the usual dehumidifier which removes particles of moisture from air using condensation and re-circulates the stale air back into the room.

Basically, humidex concetrates  on moisture related woes at the lowest part of the house, namely crawl space and basement, where condensation, stagnation and most moisture infiltration problems usually occur.

Humidex expels the damp, cool air away from the house using fresher and warmer air upstairs to lower relative humidity and dry the structure. This facilitates the exchange of air within the house, reducing moisture based woes such as mildew, mold growth and excessive humidity that cause allergies and asthma to the residents of the home.

How does Humidex work?

In most homes, the air contains dangerous pollutants that are invisible, odorless and difficult to detect. Hence, they are likely to cause health related problems such as headaches, irritated nose, eyes, respiratory diseases, infections, tiredness and dizziness.

Exchange of fresh air is practically not possible with doors and windows shut, thus having the dangerous elements trapped within the house. These elements are further aggravated by moisture which traps and contains such contaminants, becoming a source of nutrition for dust mites, other infestations and molds triggering allergic and asthma symptoms.

Humidex offers continuous improved indoor air quality and moisture control without complicated maintenance, ensuring an healthy environment.While exchanging damp and polluted air for fresh and natural air,the home environment automatically becomes healthier,drier and safer place to live.

 During winters: During winters, water condenses on walls and windows as moisture laden air in the house hits cold surface. When the humidex is operational, moist air flows downwards and dries up.Thereafter, the unit increases the temperature downstairs, absorbing saturated moisture prevalent in the atmosphere. Compared to heavy moist air, drier air heats up faster enabling a huge savings in your utility bills. Additionally, as the cold air is always located at the floor level, the heat loss becomes minimal.The unit generally functions at a slower speed during winters mainly because the heat evaporates the interior moisture.

 During summer: When there isn’t any air conditioning at the upper levels during summer, the warmer air flows downwards increasing temperature, lowering humidity and raising the dew point (causing less condensation). The moment there is air conditioning upstairs, the natural dehumidification process of conditioned air decreases, lowering relative humidity. Thus, the lower part remains warmer,drier and without odor.

Humidex Vs Dehumidifier

 A humidex utilizes just 40 watts of electricity – the same as a light bulb. Compared to a dehumidifier, the payback is less than two years, just from energy savings.

 Though dehumidifiers have been primarily utilized by consumers to decrease moisture levels, humidex beats them at all levels. Not only is humidex 90 % less expensive, but homeowners get the added benefit of continuous exchange of air, enhancement of air quality and reduction of health-risks related to mold and moisture.

 Compared to an average of $ 40 to $ 70 for a dehumidifier, the average monthly cost for a humidex is just $ 2 per month in electricity. Some high capacity dehumidifiers cost nearly $ 100 or more each month.

 While a single humidex offers moisture control for upper levels, crawl space and the entire basement, dehumidifiers offer moisture control only for a specified location and at the same time require extra units to achieve the same level of moisture reduction.

 Dehumidifers don’t offer the circulation needed to dry the structure. They don’t create airflows over large surfaces leaving large areas with moist and stagnant air. For just one dehumidifier, Humidex saves $ 400 per year. To add to that, it comes with a ten year warranty – the total savings amounting to nearly $ 4000.

Benefits of Humidex:

Humidex offers year round cost-effective, maintenance free and safe moisture control to homeowners. It checks indoor environment 24×7 for continuous humidity control – even when the homeowner isn’t at home for a long period. It safely expels pollutants, toxins and moisture outdoors.Financially smart and health conscious homeowners who select humidex improve their living conditions dramatically even while maintaining their property’s value and structural integrity.

Below are some benefits of Humidex:-

 Simple and Maintenance-free operation: Set the humidistat to desired humidity level so that the humidex automatically vents humid air outside. No cleaning filters and no heavy buckets of water to empty.

 Works while you are away: Humidex doesn’t have any hot motors to worry about or complicated controls to maintain and hence, homeowners can rely on humidex to monitor and manage the indoor air quality when they are away.

 Huge Capacity: A single humidex does the work of moisture control and circulation for an entire basement and hence, there isn’t any requirement for multiple units. The maximum area ventilated by a humidex ranges around 1800 to 1300 square feet.

 Aesthetically Pleasing: Humidex is housed in a discreet, compact, neutral colored and wall mounted cabinet that blends nicely into any home décor.

 Superior Air Quality: Humidex not only reduces inner moisture, but also eliminates damp polluted air and basement odors, replacing stale air with clean and fresh air.

 Security and Protection:  Lower moisture levels decrease wood rot and condensation in sills and window frames keeping them clear and dry. They also dry out concrete, wood and saturated sheet rocks.

 Energy Efficiency: Humidex runs only on 40 watts (which comes to around $ 2 each month). And as the drier air requires less energy to cool in summer and heat in winter, it causes lower energy bills throughout the year.

 Eco-Friendly: Humidex doesn’t contain any ozone or CFC’s. It doesn’t have any contaminated filters to replace or wash and its fan operates quietly (40db).

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

: Helpful Advice If You Encounter a Bowing Foundation Wall

By Aaron J. Stull
Owner/President – Keystone Basement Systems, Inc.
AStull@keystonebasementsystems.com

Wall anchor and steel I-Beam reinforcement methods have a multitude of specialized applications.  Furthermore, other viable foundation reinforcement methods exist and are used commercially every day.  For the purpose of this article I am only going to focus on steel I-Beam reinforcement and wall anchoring in situations where inward bowing of an exterior foundation wall has been observed.  This type of movement represents the bulk of residential problems encountered by foundation repair companies.  For the purpose of this article I will use generalities and note that specific circumstances may call for a specific repair plan.  Moreover, I will assume that the readers of this article are somewhat familiar with what both reinforcement methods are.

In my experience with residential foundation repair I can agree to one definitive fact.  Fact is that no one method works for all situations.  Furthermore, it is my strong belief that all viable methods should be considered when designing a foundation repair plan.  Because every home has different conditions and situations, utilizing this methodology will ensure that the most cost-effective and successful method will be proposed to the property owner.

I order to determine a method of correction, we should first consider the following variables -

1. Foundation Type
2. Fill Height
3. Fill Type
4. Wall Height/Length
5. Wall Width
6. Nature of Wall Deflection
7. Anomalies

Foundation Type:

Western Pennsylvania, where my business is located, is home to a diverse collection of foundation types.  The foundation types that are usually seen are of poured concrete, stone, block (Cement or Cinder), Terra Cotta, brick or a combination of each.  In addition to the type, it would be good practice to observe the general condition of the foundation.  Examining these facts will begin to shed light on some situations.  For example, if you were to encounter a terra cotta foundation that was in very poor condition with a measurable inward deflection of 6 inches, it would be wise to forget either wall anchors or I-Beams as the wall should be rebuilt.

Fill Height:

Fill height, in respect to wall height and all other variables, is important to note as it is usually the main force acting laterally on the foundation wall.  Typically the higher the fill height the greater the lateral surcharge the soil will place on the wall.

Fill Type:

Fill type should be looked at to understand the amount of pressure per cubic foot of earth on the wall.  Because different material has different weight, particle size, shape and other important aspects, it is wise to understand how each acts on a foundation.  Moreover, the rate in which water moves through a material is important as water can add additional hydrostatic pressure if it cannot pass quickly through the soil that rests against the foundation.

Wall Height and Length:

Wall height is imperative to review.  Generally, the taller a wall, lesser is its ability to resist lateral loads.  Structural damage is merely the result of a wall that is built too high without adequate internal reinforcement or wall width.

Wall length is important to note in determining the reinforcement plan for a home as well.  In some cases you will find that a wall span is too long and without buttresses which has allowed the wall to bow and crack.  This would be considered in many cases to be a design flaw.

Wall Width:

The width of a wall is also important as the wider the wall the greater the ability to resist lateral loads.  Many contractors use blocks that are 8” wide in situations that call for 10” or 12” walls.  Also, a plan may call for a wall width of a certain size and additional internal reinforcement in the form of rebar and concrete.  If this is not done the wall may acquiesce to pressure.

Nature of Wall Deflection:

In my opinion this is the most important variable to consider.  Not all wall deflections are the same.  Although there are many variations, three main types exist.  Some slip at the top usually due to poor top attachment and lateral pressure.  Some slip between the first and second coarse (In Block Foundations) inward.  This is usually from a greater lateral load in respect to the amount of compressive weight from the structure above.  The third is the wall that bows in the middle from increased pressure.  Each must be treated differently as they are all representations of pressure being translated differently based on the overall structure and configuration of the home.  Walls slipping at the top generally need a reinforcement method that incorporates a new top attachment for the home.  Walls “slipping” at the base can be reinforced with a method that integrates internally into the floor and buttresses the wall (Please note that a wall that has slipped more than 25% inward in respect to the wall width should be rebuilt).  Walls that bow in the middle are usually the easiest to correct with reinforcement methods.

The method I use for most reinforcement projects, when the inward movement of the foundation wall is more than two inches off perpendicular, is Steel I-Beam buttressing.  I simply do not prefer wall anchoring in most situations, as I have seen multiple cases where walls continues to move in around the inner reinforcement plate (standard inner plate measuring 12” x 18”). Furthermore, I am a firm believer in simplicity for design.  Wall anchors are predicated on several things being “normal” such as soil type and composition around the home, obstructions or rocks not being present or the distance from fill material that was disturbed while building the home to virgin soil that was not disturbed.  At one time I used wall anchors extensively until I had some issues with the quality of their performance.  Moreover, some cases require the homeowner to periodically tighten down the inner anchor bolt which can sometimes be done incorrectly or not done at all.

The wall anchoring process involves a lot of steps to achieve success.  Thus, I use them very sparingly.  I understand that this statement seems bold to many in this industry, but I feel that simplicity in design, with as few steps or assumptions as possible is usually the better choice.  Please understand that I do think wall anchors have a place in the industry. When installed correctly, and at the appropriate anchoring distance and frequency, wall anchors are a great corrective measure for retaining walls, sea walls and various stairwell situations.  But when discussing inward deflection of a primary foundation wall I feel that they are not as effective as steel I-Beam buttresses.

The method that I have preferred for the last 6 years has proven to be dependable and cost effective for the homeowner.

   I would first place a custom order for a steel I-Beam that is three feet longer than the wall being reinforced.
   In addition, the size of the steel (4×4, 4×6, certain pounds per foot, etc.) would be based on conditions with the building.
   In residential applications I would usually space the beams 5 feet on center (Although this can be altered for different situations) perpendicular to the wall.
  I would dig a hole in the floor that would act as the beam pocket and countersink the beam three feet into the ground and fill the hole with concrete.
  Then, I will create a custom top attachment utilizing no less than 16 3/8th lag screws at 3” in length.  I would create a situation where the top of the beam is locked into place by wooden members attached by lag screws so that the pressure at the top is translated to 16-24 lag screws and at minimum 4 floor joists.  This will allow for a safe transfer of pressure and prevent cracking and floor joists.

In closing, I cannot stress how important it is to have a qualified expert design a repair plan for your foundation needs.  All situations are different and there is no technology that works in all situations.  If you think you have a problem, and would like to have it evaluated, give us a call at 800-771-3244 and we would be happy to help.

Please note that the above advice was given as a general rule of thumb.  All situations should be reviewed by an engineer to verify that the correct method is being used.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Wet basements have always been a concern, irrespective of whether you are the owner, seller, or buyer of a home. A wet basement does not only become unusable, but also a flooded foundation can become seriously weak. The newest threat to residential indoor air quality – toxic mold, can also fester at a faster speed when an ample supply of water lies below the foot.

In case you do not fix the leaking basement, you stand a high chance of losing a valuable space in home, losing resale value, inviting health problems, risking electric shock and much more. Following are some of the reasons as to why you should fix your basement:-

1.    Potential Electric Shock: – Electricity and standing water are an unhealthy combination (lights, dryers, washers and other appliances could become hazardous).

2.    Stored Goods: – Stored goods are easily ruined. Drywall, carpeting, furniture, clothing, and tile can be embedded forever with musty smell and mildew.

3.    Wasted living space: – A wet basement causes a lot of space wastage. On the other hand, a dry basement can easily be converted to a family, home office, a recreation room, workshop, and bedroom.

4.    Resale Value: – According to most realtors, a house with a leaky basement may depreciate by nearly 25 %.

5.    Paint Chipping: – Water in blocks may create excessive moisture to hold the paint.

6.    Infestation with Insects: – Water bugs, spiders, centipede, termites, and many other insects like damp environments – including the basement.

7.    Efflorescence: – As water passes through the soil, it becomes more acidic. This water reacts with the lime in cement resulting in huge structural damage.

8.    Selling House: – Seller is liable up to a year if the problem is not disclosed.

9.    Rising Costs: – More damage is caused every time it snows or rains. If not controlled, there may occur severe structural damage, including underpinning, need for new I-beans, replacing walls, or repairing.

10.    Dampness: – Your house may be cooler by ten degrees.

11.    Erosion: – Unchecked water flow to the basement may seriously undermine the footer of the house, causing the uneven settling of the house leading to cracks in ceilings and walls and roof leaks. Extreme erosion could result in a house collapse. Footer undermining could also result in cracks in basement walls, leaving cabinets, archways, windows, cupboards and doors ajar.

Nobody likes a wet basement, and in some cases, it is a clear-cut deal breaker. In fact, a leading construction related magazine found that 19 % of homebuyers refuse to consider the upper fixer while shopping. Wet basements can, depreciate home values by 10 – 25 %. For a prospective homeowner, this is an incredible margin. Why? In the present housing scenario, nearly 40 % of the previously owned homes will have at least a single serious defect, and a wet basement is one of the easiest defects to repair.

Though the expense is not that significant, basement waterproofing could increase the home value by nearly 40%.

According to the National Association of Realtors, a finished dry basement can increase the resale value by nearly 73 % (see details below):-

It is the duty of every homeowner to embark on a complete property disclosure. The general rule in property selling and buying is caveat emptor – let the purchaser beware. Some states such as Pennsylvania have rules, which require the buyer to make full disclosure of the property.

The law states thus “Any seller who intends to transfer any interest in real property shall disclose to the buyer any material defects with the property known to seller by completing the applicable items in a property disclosure statement which satisfies Section 7304 requirements (related to disclosure form). A dated and signed copy of property disclosure statement shall be delivered to the buyer in accordance with section 7305 (relating to delivery of disclosure form) prior to the signing of an agreement of transfer by seller and buyer with respect to the property.

Though wet basement is included in the list of things to disclose in a property, Pennsylvania does not have any law when it comes to selling a house with wet basements.

Talking of wet basements, the American Society of Home Inspectors takes serious exception when it comes to the presence of molds. Mike Casey ASHI president says, “Mold has thrived for years and is commonly found in American homes.” Though it is harmless, too much of some types of mold in a home could be dangerous. Mold is indicative of excess moisture and hence, the source has to be immediately corrected. Casey believes that molds grow naturally in the indoor environment. Besides, mold spores also enter through heating, windows, open doorways, air conditioning systems, and ventilation. However, when the mold spores alight in places of excess moisture and a source of food such as building materials, they often grow and spread.

This happens frequently where leakage occurs in areas, pipes, plant pots, walls, or roofs affected by flood. Casey also observes that in case the mold growth becomes pathogenic or toxic by nature, people might also experience problems in health. Health conditions have often included symptoms such as flu-like conditions, bloody noses, chronic fatigue, congestion and other symptoms, which do not go away.

Casey adds, “As mold grows in undetected moist areas, it is important that homeowners have their homes evaluated for those troublesome areas.”

Before you sell the house, the home inspector conducts a thorough inspection. A home inspector is fully aware of important local ordinances, such as electrical and plumbing systems, frame construction and the condition of other structures found on the property. It is essential to note here that the home inspector is completely different from a code inspector or building inspector, who is given the charge to check whether the property is in full compliance with the governing housing codes. While the home inspector probably is, and should be familiar with the governing codes, they are not responsible for checking the compliance with the applicable codes – this comes under the building inspector’s purview.

Home inspection, whether for real estate inspections for a realty agency or whether for private clients, includes an in-depth analysis of all elements of a home, which are considered as permanent feature.

Based on the home size, a home inspector can spend anywhere between a couple of hours to better part of a day for a single home. The chief focus is not just to get the home inspections on a quick basis, but also to ensure that no property aspects are overlooked.

One amongst the first aspects addressed by the home inspector is the core structure condition. This would mean checking the home foundation for any weak support areas. In addition, crawl spaces and basements are checked for any cracking signs in flooring or walls, in addition to any sign of mold or seepage. In case the basic structure appears sound, the home inspector can thereafter move to other major systems, which offer utilities to a home.

The next phase of inspection would often include the cooling and heating systems for a home and the plumbing and electrical wiring system. Gas lines are checked for proper installation and leaks. Often, the wiring is of special interest to the home inspector, as electricity drives numerous major appliances and household systems.

According to local codes, plumbing should be done without any signs of immediate breakdown. In case wood stoves or fireplaces are present, both are inspected for ensuring that the devices are vented properly and are in proper working order.

Thereafter, the home inspector turns his or her attention to interior home structures. This would mean checking the doorframes and interior wall condition to ensure that there are no signs of the weakened infrastructure.

Besides, even ceilings are inspected for ensuring that they are in nice condition. Home inspectors would also watch out for presence of safety devices, such as fire alarms and smoke detectors. The condition of the closets, attic spaces, and windows, all these rounds out the interior inspection.On the exterior side, the home inspector would pay attention to the roof condition, search for proper drainage and flashing via downspouts and gutters, and ensure that attached elements such as decks or porches are safe and stable.

Other buildings on property such as storage houses or garages also need to face inspection and approval before the home inspector deems the job complete.

TIPS TO SELL HOME:

If you do not have the money to hire an interior designer, what are the essential things that you need to consider before you try to sell it.

This will  be based entirely on the current property condition. Irrespective of what the home condition is, it is worth considering key selection variables, which drive the property selection of one over the other. Selection variables mean those home aspects that one has instant control over.

Though the number of bedrooms, style of a home, location, total square footage and other parameters play a vital role in shaping a home price, they cannot be easily changed sans significant remodeling costs.

Below mentioned are certain crucial areas that a person has to work out :-

Kitchen:

    Change worn-out old cupboards and replace them with a contemporary style new unit without going for the expensive little trims and add-ons.

    As the basic units are priced reasonably, they would appear great. In the process, you can sometimes get away by replacing the old unit doors and transforming the look of a kitchen completely in the process.

    Try to upgrade the counter tops to Corian or Granite. For those on a tight budget, granite tile is a less expensive alternative to sold granite.

    Change leaky, tired taps with new faucet.

    Replace old, stainless sink with new ceramic design.

    Change worn-out old flooring, filling them with new floor tiles; add a sense of spaciousness by selecting a lighter color for brightening the room.

Bathroom:

    First appearance is the last appearance. Nobody wants to purchase a dirty bathroom. Ensure that your bathroom gleams.

    Nothing is worse than a stained old bath. If you feel its days are numbered, replace it and upgrade it to whirlpool style tub, in case you have the  master suite.

    Replace the toilet bowl if it is cracked and/or discolored.

    Now that you are replacing the toilet and the bathtub, it is important that you replace the sink too and ensure that everything matches – especially the taps on sink and tub.

    In case you have shower over bath, ensure your shower curtain is new and includes a dress curtain with tie back.

Steps to Repair a Wet Basement:

During heavy rain, when water rushes into the basement, it is everything except fun. With right materials and expertise, fixing leaky basement is possible. The picture depicts two special valves called overflow valves permitting water to spill and energized fully with automatic charger.

Now the waterproofing system has been installed.

The basement has two huge areas of vulnerability where water could enter. The first is the joint between floor and wall, which gets especially porous at the corners. Another area is where the water is squeezed in through a precast hatchway doorstep.

During heavy rains or rapid snowmelt, water starts saturating the soil and presses against the floor underside and the basement walls. If there is a strong hydrostatic pressure, water can even flow in the basement through joints and cracks, even penetrating the concrete itself.

The area where water migrates through basement walls, a white chalky powder, called efflorescence shows. Actually, this powder is a mineral residue that is left behind by the water after it drains or evaporates down the wall.

Now, after identifying the problem source, it is important to do something. The team starts by digging a huge trench around basement walls with the help of a jackhammer.

Now, cut a hole in floor for the new sump pump. This hole would collect the water channeled to it by a new perimeter drain.

These bright polyethylene panels hide any water stains and efflorescence discoloration and help in creating a barrier, channeling water to drainage trench. Screws are driven into plastic anchors through panels, fitting into the basement’s ¼ inch holes, drilled with the help of carbide masonry bit.

As soon as bright wall panels are put in place, it is time to for installing the plastic drain series, collecting the incoming water, and then channelizing it to the sump. Thereafter, the sections are connected to molded corner pieces and laid end to end.

The drain at the front of the outdoor step – especially a huge problem area, incorporates the open gate such that water flows in from the top.

Thereafter, the sump liner is dropped into position and then is connected to the trenches drainage system.

The space between the edge of the trench and the drain as well as the bottom of the sump pit and sump liner, is filled with crushed rock.

Now, the sump system starts pumping water, right from the drainage system to outside. In case the circuit breaks or the primary pump gets unplugged, the water rises to second pump. A third, battery-powered sump pump takes over if the house loses power. This system can suck up to 7000 gallons of water each hour.

This collected water must have some outlet, which is outside the basement. Now, the two-inch holes get bored into the rim joist and the siding, a bit above basement wall.

Next, a pair of drain lines directs the water outside the basement – one for the backup unit and a second for the primary pump. You can observe two special valves in the picture – these being overflow valves, which permit the water to spill out, especially for the frozen pipes in winter, rather than being forced back to the basement.

Now, a PVC drainpipe runs right from the basement until the drainage gate. Water pumped out of basement, are discharged through the grate after they are carried well away from the foundation, from where they run away from house.

In the interior, the plastic pump runs down the sump, from where it is connected to the discharge portion of the pumps. Thereafter, the pumps are plugged in and the emergency DC pump is connected. The battery then is fully energized and monitored by the automatic charger.

Now that the plumbing work has finished and with the pumps getting tested and ready for action, the grate placed at the stairwell’s bottom is tightly sealed with the duct tape and the concrete being troweled around drain, covering up everything except at the top. Remove tape over the gate when the concrete is dry.

Any water that enters the floor first enters the drainage system, is then directed to the sump pump. Water that leaks through the walls first flows in a downward direction, into the drain behind the plastic panels. Most of the water gets soaked in the sump, pumping it away from house.

Now the basement is dry and devoid of leaks.

Whether you water proof your basement yourself or bring in a crew, this method would ensure that you could sleep at night during snowy and rainy months without having to think about flooding.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

An indoor air quality certified professional (IAQA) is one of the world’s most qualified and sought after IAQ experts. IAQA members having AmIAQ certification are often called upon by building management and general public for practical solutions to any complex IAQ problem.

HIRE ONLY THE BEST CERTIFIED AND TRAINED IAQA MEMBERS

While hiring a contractor or professional consultant, select a firm that has a certified and qualified staff that follows industry guidelines and standards and ensures proper job execution.

IAQA has several training courses, including remediation and assessment programs made available to its members through several indoor air disciplines.

HOW TO SCREEN AN IAQ CONSULTANT

Before making that crucial selection, check whether the consultant has appropriate project experience and training. Seek information from contact clients and references to know whether he has successfully accomplished earlier IAQ related problems.

Check whether one of the personnel (who have more experience than others do) stays in direct touch with site investigation staff or remain onsite.

There are numerous IAQ qualified consultants who work for small firms or who are self-employed. Nationally recognized accreditations and certifications would help you in ensuring that firms of varying size yield similar results. Note that not all professional society memberships, certifications or accreditations are equal. Be wary of contractors who cross their expertise limits or those having an in-depth financial stake in the investigation outcome.

For instance, though a duct-cleaning professional may have noticed several IAQ problems, it does not qualify her/him to remedy and diagnose all of them. You need to remain aware of federal certification or state certification requirements for persons involved in ventilation modifications.

Next, always clarify your stand as to what you are expecting from your hired consultant. If required, see whether the consultant can respond on a short notice. This may help you define the scope of services on an upfront basis. However, an indoor air quality is rarely predictable. Hence, your proposed scope may get modified based on your question and answer session with some prospective consultants.

No two indoor air quality problems or buildings are alike. Hence, the scope of project could not be defined till a thorough inspection is conducted through testing and analysis.

If time permits, interview candidates and solicit proposals. A telephonic interview will suffice. Ask the consultant for her/his general approach towards problem resolution. Usually, a systematic but general approach is more effective than extensive air testing. Proposals have to indicate the estimated consulting expenses and fees for the initial phase of the specified project.

Pay attention to project approach and enquire if you feel some of the scope items don’t have any sense. Find as to how the decisions for remediation or follow-up testing could be made.

What Studies Indicate

Studies indicate that most people spend 90 % of their time indoors and Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) issues exercise deep impact on several people around the world. Poor air quality leads to decreased property values, lost productivity, liability issue and health concerns.

IAQ problems in non-industrial buildings such as offices, schools and homes are often caused by inter-related and complex issues. Fixing and diagnosing poor IAQ sources may need professional expertise of more than one contractor or consultant.

Currently, there are several firms available which would help you find solutions to your IAQ problems. As the IAQ industry is non-regulated in most parts of the country, it is important to ensure that only qualified firms and individuals deal with such complex issues.

So far, IAQA is the largest professional organization dealing with issues related to indoor air quality. Since 1995, IAQA has delivered the industry’s most respected and prestigious programs especially in mold training.

Indoor air quality impacts occupant comfort and health in a major way. Whenever issues related to indoor air quality arises, it is important that only the highly qualified ones are called upon.

What happens when you don’t hire an IAQA:

If you have a serious indoor air problem and are not hiring an IAQA, below mentioned are the problems that you may face:-

1. Excessive mold growth would result in more toxic spores getting dispersed in your room.

2. In case you have a weak resistance power, there are high chances that you may suffer from respiratory ailment or sinus based problems.

3. Prolonged mold exposure may lead to chronic illness and, if the problem persists for a longer period, may even force you to shift to a safer location.

4. Hiring a non-experienced consultant to clear mold growth may offer temporary solution. After a brief period of lull, mold may develop and even spread to other areas.

IAQA in Pennsylvania:

Most people may be unaware of the fact, but Pennsylvania is the only state in the United States which does not have a statewide certification. Hence IAQA is the only available resource for a consumer in Pennsylvania.

How to find an IAQA agent:

For those who wish to seek an IAQ professional contractor or consultant, then the Indoor Air Quality Association is the best resource. Using a variety of filter criteria, you can search the member database. Some of them are as follows:-

1. Industry Discipline – Members of IAQA come from numerous trades and professions. You can use the IAQA advanced search mechanism for advancing the query so that it fits their needs

2. IAQA Profiles – There are numerous IAQA members who have posted the personal profiles in which they have detailed their credentials, experience and education. In case you are not getting enough results while you search for the IAQA site, you can unclick a box which states, “Include those listings which have IAQ profiles.”

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN IAQA TRAINING CERTIFICATION AND PROFESSIONAL CERTIFICATION

Adam Andrews from the American Indoor Air quality council states, “If you hold a private IAQA related credential, you might be surprised to learn that it may be nothing more than a training certificate. Newly Published ANSI/NOCA Standard 1100 explains the difference between training certificates, known as assessment based certificates and true professional certification programs. According to the standard, a training certificate is awarded to someone who takes a particular course of instruction and then passes a test based on that course.”

Adding further, Adam says, “A professional certification, on the other hand, is awarded to someone who passes an examination based on broad industry knowledge that is independent of training courses or course providers. In section 8, Standard 1100 stipulate that holders of training certificates may not use letters or acronyms behind their names. Nor may they use the name “certified” in describing their credentials. The standard suggests that the so-called certifications that are offered by many IAQA organizations today are, in reality, nothing more than training certificates. And that these organizations mislead their members by referring to their credentials as certifications.”

Now the ANSI/NOCA standard does not condemn all IAQ certified bodies. Organizations such as the American Board of Industrial Hygiene (ABIH) and the American Indoor Air Quality Council (AIAQC) offer professional certification programs as defined in Standard 1100. Predictably, these organizations are among the only IAQ groups to earn third party accreditation of their certification programs. If you are unsure whether your credential is compliant with standard 1100, ask the following questions:-

1. Does my certifying body develop a credit or deliver certification prep courses?

2. Does my certifying body require these courses as prerequisites for certification?

3. Or imply that such courses are the only way to become certified?

If the answer to these questions is yes, then your certifying body should not grant titles or use the word certified in describing you. According to ANSI/NOCA Standard 1100, these credentials are training certificates – not professional certifications.

Press the link below to click on IAQA expert Aaron Stull’s profile on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”