In our previous article, we discussed about the different causes of basement odors and where they originate from. But how do we get rid of these musty odors to improve our basements in the home? Let us look at some of the effective ways of dealing with these unpleasant and uncomfortable odors in the basement.

1. Cleaning the basement: Cleaning your basement will get rid of most of the musty odors, mold and mildew, dampness and humidity existing in the basement. Choose a sunny day to remove all the furniture and carpets in order to sun-dry them and also deep-clean the carpets. Sweep and dust all around the basement to remove dust that is the primary cause for allergies and other respiratory problems. It is recommended to use a disinfectant to clean the walls and floors, so as to get rid of the musty odor due to mold and mildew growth that are usually found under carpets, behind panels and behind perimeter walls. Throw away all the unnecessary stuff from your basement as they are favorable to the growth of molds and, in addition, you can create space in the basement. Arrange clothes, books and furniture in a neat way by keeping all clothes in the wardrobe, arranging books in stacks and minimizing the furniture in the basement.

2. Waterproofing: Cracks or leakages in the walls are usually caused due to dampness. The dampness could be either due to unfavorable climatic conditions, improper drainage system and excessive humidity. Cracked walls should not be left as they are, and should be either sealed or patched as soon as they are identified. Leaving a cracked wall unattended could worsen the situation by widening and spreading all over the wall. Dehumidification is essential for leaking walls, since it helps in drying the wall. These walls can be cleaned with trisodium phosphate, a hard surface cleaner. Once the walls dry, seal them with a latex concrete sealer to avoid further leakage and musty odor.

3. Dehumidification: Humidity is another primary cause for smelly basements. A dehumidifier can help in controlling the humidity in your basement. Attaching a hose to the dehumidifier will get rid of the excess moist air in the basement, leaving no space for the growth of molds that lead to the musty smell. It is also essential to keep in mind the type of dehumidifier you choose for your basement and should be based on the efficiency and size of your basement.

4. Ventilation: This is undoubtedly one of the most important factors to consider when getting rid of basement odors. On a fine sunny day, just open all the windows in your basement and switch on your exhaust fans to allow circulation of fresh air within the basement from outside. Cross-ventilation is also very important in removing humidity and stagnant air that gets accumulated in the basement.

5. Drainage system: Ensure that you install both a proper interior and exterior basement drainage system to prevent condensation that can lead to dampness. Wrap pipe insulation around the basement pipes to avoid condensation from building up on them. Leaking basement walls can trap water and increase humidity in the basement. Ensure that the ground slopes and downspouts are extended around six feet away from the house. You can also read our blog article on basement drainage systems for more information at http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?p=980.

Apparently, there are also some home remedies that could be useful to get rid of the musty odors in your basement too.

• Baking soda is effective for neutralizing odors and absorbs moisture and so you can either leave it open in a container or sprinkle a little on your smelly carpet and later vacuum it.
• Vinegar is a household product that helps in neutralizing odors, including those left behind by pet accidents and skunk sprays.
• Citrus fruits like lemons and oranges leave a pleasant smell behind and can be used as air fresheners.
• Charcoal and cat litter help in absorbing moisture.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.ehow.com/how_2209654_clean-basement.html
2. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/householdodors
3. http://www.ehow.com/how_18796_remove-musty-basement.html
4. http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-musty-basement-smell/

You might be making use of your basement for utility purposes such as your air-conditioning systems, car parking area, fuse boxes or electrical distribution systems. This means that your basement is not completely utilized like your other rooms in the house. When you enter your basement for these purposes, you may have noticed an unpleasant smell in spite of taking good care of your basement. Basement odors are quite common with regard to the maintenance of basements. Let us look at some of the important factors that lie behind the musty odor that bothers you most of the time.

Causes of Basement Odors

Dampness

You must be wondering how a closed area like a basement would invite chances for dampness. When the level of humidity is high, the amount of moisture increases in the atmosphere. The condensation of moist, warm air on cold interior wall and floor surfaces is more than enough to create dampness in your basement. Wet walls, foggy windows and tiny droplets on cold surfaces are good signs of high levels of humidity. When air is able to hold water vapor at a particular temperature, the relative humidity is 100%. If it goes beyond, that is when condensation takes place, causing dampness.

Mold and Mildew

The environment in a damp basement is suitable for the growth of mold and mildew. Molds are a type of fungi and ubiquitous in nature and are therefore found both indoors and outdoors. Climatic conditions such as warm, damp and humid weather are favorable to the growth of these organisms. Mildew has the ability to break down cellulose material and release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that result in the musty odor in basements. Mold growth is usually very common in basements and can be seen as black spots on wood furniture, carpets, drywalls, organic ceiling tiles, paper, cloth, cardboard and anything that is made up of organic material, causing rotting and damage. The presence of mold and mildew in the basement gives a musty odor which leads to various health-related issues. The mold spores that are formed on damp surfaces affect the immune system when they enter the respiratory tract and cause symptoms like breathing problems, congestion, headache, asthma and allergies.

Stagnant Air

A basement or a crawl space is usually a closed area and is not frequently used as compared to the other rooms in the house. This reduces the amount of air entering into the basement. A musty odor in the basement develops due to lack of circulation of air. This can be found out by opening the windows in your basement and switching on the exhaust fans on one fine day to allow air circulation. If the bad odor in your basement does not exist, then you have the answer to your problem!

High Humidity

Your basement may have the perfect air circulation and may be clear of any mold and mildew growth, but do you still experience bad odor? Well, humidity could be the reason and does play a vital role in a smelly basement which occurs due to climatic conditions. High levels of humidity in the basement (above 50%) create breeding grounds for the growth of mold and mildew. Hence, before the construction of your basement, it is important to look into the aspects of moisture, humidity and air circulation.

Water penetration

The chances of water penetration in the basement are always high, since it is located below the ground where water gets accumulated. There are basically two ways in which water can enter into the basement, through the foundation walls and the basement floor. When water gets soaked in the soil, there is always pressure of the heavy water to push through the foundation walls. If there are any cracks or joints on the walls, then water is sure to pass through depending on the quantity and pressure of water against the walls. Stains on the concrete, paneling of a finished basement and efflorescence are common indicators of water penetration. Corners of basements are also popular for water penetration caused by the discharge of rain water from the rain down spout in this area.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.forensicconstructionexpert.com/basement_air.html
2. http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4743130_musty-basement-odor-occur.html
3. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/remedies-taking-out-smell-mold-mildew.html
4. http://www.basementsystems.com/mold.html
5. http://www.gwarreninc.com/water-damage.html#basements1-water

We have already discussed about the importance of dehumidifying your home or basement. However, it is also essential to know how these devices work in order to avoid any hassles. Humidity is one of the primary reasons why we end up installing dehumidifiers in our homes, especially in closed areas like basements. Moreover, if you live in the equatorial or coastal regions, you are sure to experience humid conditions most of the time.

Humidity is a result of relative humidity where moisture is suspended in the air. A dehumidifier is a device that helps reduce humidity in any building or room by removing moisture from the air. Dehumidifiers play a vital role in preventing mold, bacteria and biological  allergens, musty odors, and furniture, carpeting, storage box mildew damage that arise when humidity levels are above 50%.

Principle

The principle that lies behind the dehumidifier is simple. It works on the same principle as the freezer, refrigerator or air conditioner. For example, on a hot day under the scorching sun, when you have a cold drink you can see tiny droplets of water forming on the surface of the container due to a process called condensation. In the same way, a dehumidifier condenses the moisture present in the air with a fan that blows the warm air onto coils of cold metal. The condensed moisture is then collected in a bucket or holding tank in the form of water. The cold air is then blown onto the warm coils and brings the temperature back to normal.

Components

A basic dehumidifier consists of the following components for normal functioning:

1. Fan Compressor: It is the quiet motor of the cooling system that is found at the bottom of the dehumidifier and helps in cooling the dehumidifier coils.

2. Condenser: It is a series of finned coils, similar to a radiator, and located near the circulating fan.

3. Evaporator: This is also a set of coils located behind the dehumidifier and just above the water-collection container. It captures and collects heat that is generated by the cooling process.

4. Reservoir: This is where moisture that is condensed from the air is collected.

Most dehumidifiers also have a humidistat that helps in setting the desired level of humidity. A humidistat consists of a sensing element and a relay amplifier. A sensing element has two alternate metal conductors that cause electrical resistance when there are variations in relative humidity. The relay amplifier measures the resistance and is responsible for the utilization of the dehumidifier based on the measurement.

Methodology

The fan compressor in the dehumidifier extracts the moisture from the air into the dehumidifier. As we all know, warm air can hold more moisture as compared to cold air. When relative humidity is high, the amount of moisture in the air is also high. The warm air is drawn toward the cold coils in the dehumidifier where condensation takes places by a condenser. The amount of air that is moved by a dehumidifier is measured in cubic feet of air per minute (CFM). Hence, when the CFM level is high, it becomes easier for the dehumidifier to remove large amounts of moisture. The size of a dehumidifier is also important in determining the reduction of humidity. The smaller the dehumidifier, the lesser the capacity to remove moisture. After condensation, the water is collected in a holding tank or reservoir, which is either attached to or separated from the dehumidifier.

It can be quite difficult to extract moisture from closed areas like basements and crawl spaces, since the temperature will be low. In such cases, it is wise to choose and buy a dehumidifier that is specially designed for such areas. In an environment where relative humidity is above 50%, the function of a dehumidifier becomes easier due to large amounts of moisture present in the air. On the other hand, an environment with low level of humidity will require a powerful dehumidifier to accomplish the task.

Types of Dehumidifiers

1. Mechanical or Refrigerative Dehumidifiers: It absorbs moisture over a refrigerated coil with a small fan.

2. Desiccative Dehumidifiers: Desiccant materials are used by initially expose them to high relative humidity in order to absorb moisture. The materials are then exposed to low relative humidity to extract moisture from them.

3. Air Conditioners: They decrease the temperature in the room in order to condense and liquefy the moisture in the air.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.dehumidifierexperts.com/article.php/how-dehumidifiers-work/?id=17
2. http://www.repairclinic.com/Dehumidifier-How-Things-Work
3. http://home.howstuffworks.com/dehumidifier.htm
4. http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5001686_whole-house-dehumidifiers-work.html
5. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/basement-dehumidifiers.html

On a cold winter morning or evening, you must have felt tiny droplets of water in the atmosphere or for that matter seen water droplets in the air in the form of fog on cold beverage containers during the hot season. But have you ever wondered what lies behind this natural phenomenon? The answer is dew point, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Dew point, or otherwise better known as dew point temperature, is the temperature at which the liquid and gaseous phases of a material present in a gas, such as water in air, are in equilibrium at a given gas pressure. In the case of water, the temperature at which both evaporation and condensation of water take place are the same. An interesting point to note about dew point is that it is related with evaporation, condensation and relative humidity.

How Does Temperature Affect Dew Point?

It is a known fact that warmer air can hold or suspend more water vapor in the air than cold air. When the air cools down, it naturally loses its ability to hold moisture in the air. Dew point temperature is also known as the saturation temperature of water vapor in the air, the reason being that when the temperature is lowered from the saturation temperature, water vapor condenses faster than it evaporates. On the other hand, when the temperature is increased from the saturation temperature, water vapor evaporates faster than it condenses. At the saturation temperature, the evaporation and condensation rates of water vapor in the atmosphere are at equilibrium.

Dew Point vs. Humidity

As mentioned in our previous article, relative humidity is the amount of moisture or water vapor that is suspended in the atmosphere. Dew point and humidity have been found to be related and are dependent on the amount of water vapor in the air and the total amount of water vapor that the air can hold at a given temperature. This is the main reason why you see tiny droplets of water on cold surfaces during hot weather conditions.

When relative humidity increases, the dew point temperature is closer to the current air temperature and when relative humidity decreases, the dew point temperature is at par with the current air temperature. When dew point temperature and real temperature are the same, relative humidity is 100%. At this point of time, fog, mist, dew and clouds start forming due to condensation and this means that the air is holding 100% moisture.

Basic Points to Know about Dew Point

• Dew point temperature can never be higher than the current temperature.
• When the temperature is the same as the dew point temperature and then starts falling, the dew point temperature must simultaneous decrease.
• The amount of moisture in the air increases with increase in the dew point temperature.
• Relative humidity of around 100% is an indication of dew, frost, fog and rain.
• Regions around the Equator experience high dew points, whereas the desert and polar regions experience low dew points.

Applications

• Heat transfer by convection
• Combustion of fossil fuels and combustion engineering
• Drying of paper, cardboard, plastics, wood, tobacco, leather, printed goods, textiles and grain
• Energy efficiency in chemical manufacturing processes
• Prevention of corrosion in iron, steel and other metals

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.temperatures.com/dewpoint.html
2. http://www.weatherquestions.com/What_is_dewpoint_temperature.htm
3. http://apollo.lsc.vsc.edu/classes/idm3020/tut_folder/nick_tutorial/

Humidity

In order to understand relative humidity, let’s look at what humidity is all about. The term humidity is mainly used for the moisture that is present in the atmosphere. Understanding humidity in terms of geography, water in the rivers, lakes, oceans and other water bodies is absorbed by solar radiations when heat is generated by a process called evaporation. This process results in large amounts of water evaporating into water vapor present in the atmosphere. Water vapor condenses in the form of rain, snow and clouds by a process called condensation. You can read more about condensation in our previous article, “What is Condensation?”

Relative Humidity

Researchers have tried to find out different ways to measure humidity in order to analyze significant factors like climatic conditions in different regions. Among the different ways of calculating humidity, relative humidity is the most commonly used method. Relative humidity is basically the amount of water vapor or moisture that is present in the atmosphere. It is the amount of water vapor present in the air at any given time relative to the amount that is required to saturate the atmosphere,

i.e., Relative Humidity = actual vapor density/saturation vapor density × 100%

If the presence of water vapor goes beyond saturation, it condenses as dew. Relative humidity increases when the unsaturated air is cooled. When the air reaches saturation point, relative humidity is 100%.

Considerations When Measuring Humidity

Have you ever thought why it is essential to check the level of humidity? There are basically two reasons, maintenance of hygiene and energy efficiency. Lack of control in humidity leads to mold formation, corrosion and persistent condensation on cold surface. The ideal and maximum level of humidity is between 30 and 40%.

Humidity occurs as a result of fluctuations in temperature. For this reason, it is necessary to consider temperature while measuring relative humidity. As mentioned earlier, temperature is responsible for saturation vapor pressure. High and low levels of humidity have a significant effect on relative humidity, as well as saturation pressure. Therefore, the exact temperature makes the comparison in humidity measurement values easier.

Another factor to take into consideration when measuring relative humidity is the location and stabilization. Short distances can also have variations in relative humidity and it is always wise to have patience till the conditions are stabilized, including temperature.

How Do We Measure Humidity?

There are a number of devices that can be used to measure humidity. Relative humidity can be measured by the following instruments:

1. Sling Psychrometer: It consists of two thermometers, a wet-bulb and a dry-bulb thermometer. The thermometers function on the basis of the evaporation and cooling that takes place in the atmosphere. When evaporation occurs, the temperatures in both the thermometers show different values and their differences are noted down (wet-bulb depression) to calculate relative humidity. On the other hand, these thermometers would have the same temperatures if there was no evaporation.

2. Hair Hygrometer: This device is based on the calculation of the differences in the length of strands of hair during humidity. As the hair becomes longer, the humidity also increases.

Importance of Relative Humidity

1. Climate

Relative humidity does play a vital role in climatic conditions, especially when there is a fluctuation in temperature which decides human comfort, health and safety, and technical requirements of machinery and processes.

2. Comfort

Human beings tend to be quite uncomfortable during seasons when the relative humidity is very high. Humid conditions make people perspire to a lesser extent than dry weather conditions. Hence, we feel much warmer during high levels of humidity than lower levels of humidity.

3. Buildings

In order to maintain the temperature in the surroundings, there should be a control in relative humidity. High temperature and low humidity leads to rapid evaporation of water that result in dry soil, quick drying of clothes, dry sweat and shrinkage of wooden furniture that could damage the paint. However, high temperature and high humidity leads to slow evaporation of water which leads to growth of mold and mildew, corrosion, decay and other damp-related issues. Similarly, relative humidity needs to be controlled in buildings such as factories, hospitals, laboratories and other facilities using devices such as humidifiers and dehumidifiers to avoid such issues.

4. Vehicles

You must be wondering as to how vehicles would get affected by humidity. High humidity inside the vehicle can lead to condensation on the windows while driving and electrical problems. Airliners, submersibles and spacecrafts are also prone to condensation, corrosion and health problems such as drying out of mucosa, dry skin and sore eyes.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.ace.mmu.ac.uk/eae/weather/older/Humidity.html
2. http://www.physicalgeography.net/fundamentals/8c.html
3. http://www.sensirion.com/images/getFile?id=115
4. http://www.aemc.com/techinfo/appnotes/environmentaltesters/APP-EnvironTesters-Humidity.pdf
5. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/kinetic/relhum.htm

Condensation is the conversion of water from its gaseous state into its liquid state. There is always some amount of moisture present in the air. During cold weather conditions, the moisture present in the air condenses into tiny droplets of water. In fact, the air that you breathe out can be seen on a cold winter morning. Condensation can also occur on those hot, humid summer days where you would need an air conditioner to cool your home. This may result in hazy windows due to the air conditioning.

Household activities such as cooking, washing and drying clothes are responsible for the excess moisture present in the air within your home. An average family creates around 20 pints of water vapor per day. This can be usually seen in the form of fog, mist, dew or frost in the atmosphere and plays a significant role in the formation of clouds, rain and snow.

Condensation is a result of the fall in temperature of vapor even below its saturation temperature. When warm air rises in the atmosphere and cools down, it loses its ability to hold the water vapor in the air and hence the excess water vapor condenses to form cloud droplets.

What does condensation have to do with basements? Well, it has quite a lot to do with basements. The moisture that forms as a result of condensation can cause rotting window frames, peeling wallpaper and mold on walls, carpets or clothes. This phenomenon occurs where there is no adequate air circulation. You may have noticed mold on your windows, walls, ceilings and furniture a couple of times, especially during the winter season. This also comes along with stale air that gets accumulated within the basement due to lack of ventilation. All these factors lead to aggravation of illnesses such as asthma and bronchitis.

What is the difference between condensation and dampness?

Dampness can be a result of condensation. As mentioned earlier, condensation occurs during cold climatic conditions when the water vapor is surrounded by cold temperature and the moisture content of the air is high. This leads to the growth of mold and mildew which may due to lack of air circulation and insulation. Dampness can also be caused due to other reasons such as leaking drainage pipes, wastes or overflows, cracked walls and ceilings, leakages from the roof where tiles are missing during rains and defective damp course or no damp course.

Condensation in the basement can be caused by the following reasons:

(1) Lack of ventilation, especially during the summers
(2) Lack of insulation, especially during the winters
(3) Inadequate heating in the basement

How to Reduce Condensation or Dampness in the Basement

(1) Allow moisture to move out of your home when cooking, washing or drying clothes and heating by closing doors to avoid circulation of moisture and opening windows to let out the moisture.

(2) Make sure that you ventilate your home to remove moisture by opening windows, using exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathroom to let out the damp air after frying or taking a hot shower, installing air vents wherever possible, cutting breather holes in cupboards and wardrobes and installing ventilators for windows.

(3) Insulate your basement by air sealing, installing insulators in your walls, dehumidifiers, which will keep your rooms warm and simultaneously prevent the entry of moisture and hence avoid dampness. Get effective ways of insulating your basement from our blog article, http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?p=923.

(4) In order to remove mold and mildew from walls, use a fungicide. Clothes and carpets affected by mold can be dry cleaned and shampooed, respectively. Mold and mildew creates a high risk of respiratory problems and gets worse if disturbed by brushing or vacuum cleaning.

(5) Get rid of any kind of moisture immediately by wiping any surface moisture to avoid room for any damage.

(6) Fungicidal paints for the walls will also help in preventing growth of mold and mildew.

So next time you think of basement condensation, you know exactly what to do!

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.ace.mmu.ac.uk/eae/weather/older/condensation.html
2. http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/%28Gh%29/guides/mtr/hyd/cond/home.rxml
3. http://nptel.iitm.ac.in/courses/Webcourse-contents/IISc-BANG/Heat%20and%20Mass%20Transfer/pdf/M8/Student_Slides_M8.pdf
4. http://www.weatherquestions.com/What_is_condensation.htm
5. http://www.changeworks.org.uk/uploads/wat/Condensation.pdf
6. http://www.polaristechnologies.com/documents/ControllingCondensation.pdf
7. http://www.hollandroofingco.com/files/Facts_About_Condensation2.pdf
8. http://www.barnet.gov.uk/condensation.pdf

Basement drainage systems can be a solution to all your basement problems such as water leakages, bad odor, stagnant air, furniture damage, mold and mildew. These drainage systems can either be installed in the interior or exterior of your home. Different methods are usually implemented for both interior and exterior drainage systems depending on the cause of damage. The following are some of the reliable options you could use to install a drainage system in your home.

1. Interior Basement Drainage System

Most people opt for an interior basement drainage system for a number of reasons that include the affordability to install one inside the basement than outside, the convenience of the job, the minimal time required for installation, no hassles on the availability of services and reliability. Some useful ways of drainage systems that you can consider are:

(a) Concrete walls: An interior drainage channel adhered at the base of the wall and the floor slab is ideal in situations where water tends to enter the basement. Installing the channel is a cost-effective approach, especially for concrete walls with cracks, and works by simply by collecting water into an airtight sump with the help of another channel that is placed on top of the slab. The water then flows through a trap to the sump basin. Although this method is effective for concrete walls, it is not very helpful in the case of masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab.

(b) Masonry walls: For masonry walls, installing a drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing gets rid of moisture problems inside the basement because it drains the block cores completely. For this reason, holes are drilled at the base of every block core to permit drainage. The concrete along the slab edge should be removed and replaced for this approach. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected.

(c) Perforated drain pipes: A perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing by removing and replacing concrete at the slab edge allows free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe. A dimpled plastic sheeting is placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected. This method gives better results when combined with an active soil gas management system that connects with the sump and perimeter drain pipe.

2. Exterior Basement Drainage System

Exterior basement drainage systems have been found to be costlier than interior drainage systems since there is a lot of work, time and external causes such as weather conditions involved. On the other hand, they are essential for preventing exterior foundation damage. Although exterior drainage systems are expensive and time-consuming, people concerned about property and equity maintenance will have long-term benefits. A look at some exterior drainage system approaches:

(a) Grading: One would wonder as to what the soil has to do with a drainage system. Proper grading of the soil around the house would eliminate the entrance of water into the basement. Creating slopes would drive away water before it reaches the basement walls. In fact, this method would not even require a basement drainage.

(b) Open drain: Open drains which are just shallow trenches that are lined with cement or plastic and held together with pebbles or gravel help in collecting water and discarding it before it reaches the basement.

(c) French drain: A French drain is a trench that is covered with gravel or rock and basically redirects surface and ground water. This is useful for exterior drainage systems because the French drain that consists of a perforated pipe not only gets rid of water entering the basement, but draws water out of the soil before it soaks into the soil. The depth of the trench can range from 2-3 feet to 5-6 feet deep. However, lack of maintenance can lead to clogging of these trenches from sediments in the ground that will force water into the basement.

(d) Gutter downspouts: Gutter downspouts that are extended at least ten feet from the house and preferably connected to a rainwater collection system can work out as a reliable source for drainage.

Disadvantages of Interior Basement Drainage System:

1. Extensively finished basement – The basement has to be properly insulated and sealed with appropriate materials which make the process expensive and intrusive. Improper installation can lead to moisture and mold problems and the interior drainage system may require non-invasive termite detection systems in termite-prone areas.

2. Excessively thick basement floor – Thick basement flooring can make the process impractical and, in some cases, impossible to install.

Disadvantages of Exterior Basement Drainage System:

1. Property line constraints – People may not own enough land surrounding their homes for an excavation trench and an area for a machine to operate. Moreover, digging or excavating by hand can be a tedious and expensive process. Excavation can also get difficult in different seasons like the spring if the area has a high water table and is impossible during winters.

2. Safety – Some problems occur on hillsides that will not allow safe excavation. This can lead to extensive damage in terms of landscaping.

3. Urban areas – Some areas are so densely built that outside measures are not practical.

4. Obstructions – Some homes have additions like paved carports, gardens, trees and fences that overhand the foundation drainage and thus make it impossible to excavate those areas rendering external methods inadequate.

5. Utilities – Some areas have underground utilities that make external excavation difficult or impossible.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1. http://gratedrain.blogspot.com/
2. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/understanding-interior-basement-waterproofing.html
3. http://www.ehow.com/list_5782927_basement-drainage-ideas.html
4. http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/housingandclothing/components/7051-04.html
5. http://www.basementsystems.com/basement-waterproofing/basement-waterproofing-products/drainage-systems.html

Have you ever thought of the positive effects of ventilating or dehumidifying your basement? Well, in order to understand these factors, let us first look at the causes of poor ventilation in your basement. A wet or damp basement could be a result of wall cracks and pipe leakages and weather conditions such as cold winters and floods. This leads to dampness along with stale air circulating within the basement which creates a favorable environment for the growth of mold and mildew. In contrast, during warm weather conditions, the humidity tends to be on the higher side and lack of ventilation in the basement leads to recurrence of stagnant air, bad odor and growth of mold.

How can this be avoided and what does it have to do with basement dehumidification? Apart from water damage dehumidification and mold remediation, basement dehumidifiers have always been considered as an alternative measure for moisture control, air exchange and ventilation, especially in areas like basements and crawl spaces. On the other hand, there have been issues such as the cost factor, daily maintenance and efficiency between traditional and modern humidifiers.

The benefits of having a high-quality, energy-efficient dehumidifier in your basement will definitely make up for the cost of buying and maintaining it in the long run. These benefits include:

1. Mold: As mentioned earlier, installing a dehumidifier in your home reduces the chances of mold damage, since the cleanup and replacement costs come at very high rates. In fact, many insurance policies do not cover mold-related expenses which leave us with the only option of trying to prevent the damage.

2. Health: The constant circulation of stale air inside the basement obviously affects the immune system, targeting the respiratory functions by inhaling allergens, bacteria, fungi and dust. This leads to colds, asthmas, flus, allergies and other respiratory problems. The installation of a dehumidifier reduces this risk and recycles the stale air circulating in the basement by condensation.

3. Space: Due to the common problems in the basement such as lack of ventilation, dampness and poor air circulation leading to an uncomfortable environment, these areas are not fully utilized as compared to other areas such as the living room. Dehumidifiers will help control and maintain temperature levels in basements at all times, providing cozy and comfortable surroundings.

4. Energy: The air molecules of damp air caused by the presence of moisture in the surroundings are heavier than the normal air molecules and therefore affect air circulation. This in turn leads to excessive or improper utilization of heating and cooling systems which require more energy.

5. Selling Opportunities: Homes with maximum living space have been found to be more attractive to potential buyers. Hence, basements that are well-finished, furnished and comfortable can be made to good use in various ways.

With cutting-edge technology and design at their best in the current scenario, there are energy-efficient dehumidifiers available at reasonable rates. These devices come along with considerable warranties and have improved air quality capable of getting rid of hassles like moisture, mold and condensation.

It is preferable to install basement dehumidifiers in an enclosed area for better efficiency. Installing exhaust fans in the bathrooms and ceiling fans in the basement will help in proper air circulation for sufficient ventilation. Basement dehumidifiers work in a simple way by drawing water vapor from the air and collecting it in a holding tank by condensation and then releasing the water through a drain pipe. They can be installed permanently with the help of a qualified professional or are portable for the user’s convenience to carry it wherever possible.

There are also various types of dehumidifiers. To learn more about Humidex and other dehumidifiers, visit http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?m=200909.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1. http://www.breathepureair.com/dehumidifiers_basement.html
2. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/basement-ventilation.html
3. http://hubpages.com/hub/Best-Basement-Dehumidifier-Must-For-Sultry-Basements
4. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html
5. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-ventilation
6. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-dehumidifier

Basements are usually recommended in areas that have steep slopes and experience extreme cold climatic conditions with low temperature and deep frost penetration. Deeper excavation comes in a package along with the construction and structure of basements, which of course increases costs, but results in a reliable, cozy and comfortable space.

One of the primary foundations in the United States are basements, but they are also accompanied by a number of common issues related to extreme temperatures like the cold winters, heat and humidity, water intrusion mold and an unhealthy environment. Research has shown that 25% of energy costs come from the heat loss of basements. Therefore, a properly sealed and insulated basement with protection from moisture is an additional necessity in reducing energy costs.

There are three basic methods that are used in basement insulation, namely, interior insulation, exterior insulation and insulated concrete forms. However, before sealing up and insulating the basement, one has to initially inspect the basement for any cracks or leaks that can be possible entries for moisture. These cracks and leaks should be repaired and sealed in order to allow the basement to dry completely, especially for insulation of basement walls.

1.  Interior Insulation: This is considered to be one of the simplest and cost-effective means of basement insulation. The installation is usually done behind interior framing or by furring strips placed against the foundation wall with a range of insulation materials. Special care has to be taken to ensure that the wall is completely sealed and dry from moisture which is likely to enter during the cold winters. For this reason, it is always suggested to use a non-absorbent material for the inner layer of the insulation. The disadvantage of interior insulation is that it reduces the usable interior space and is not as effective as exterior insulation in moisture protection.

2.  Exterior Insulation: Exterior insulation is equally important in protecting the basement from any additional moisture and cold weather. The exterior of the walls is insulated to reduce heat loss and condensation, and protect the interior of the basement from any unnecessary damage. Materials like extruded polystyrene are durable and moisture resistant for exterior insulation. This method of insulation can turn to be a little expensive with the type of material used, especially for an existing building. It is therefore advised to have a perimeter drainage system in place.

3. Insulated Concrete Forms: These products are comparatively new and can be installed easily. Hollow foam blocks are stacked together and then filled with concrete. They serve the purpose of both interior and exterior insulation, and are used as surfaces for attaching drywall, brick ties and other finish materials. Some of them are even treated with termite-resistant chemicals.

Is temperature maintenance in your basement only limited to extreme cold weather conditions? Well, the answer is no. As mentioned earlier, basements also face problems in humid conditions which are favorable for the growth of molds, microbes, dust mites and other organisms. These micro-organisms play a vital role in deteriorating health conditions.

Basement dehumidifiers are the best solution to reducing the humidity in the basement to normal recommended levels, which is between 40-60%. They are of two types, the portable unit and the installed unit. The portable unit is user-friendly, whereas the installed unit requires a qualified professional for installation. The latter are usually installed with a fan, heating pump and cooling coil. The moisture in the air is drawn by the fan over the heat pump. This water vapor is then condensed into water through the cooling coil and collected into a holding tank and can be removed either manually or through a drain hose installed in the unit. The installed basement dehumidifier is more efficient as compared to the portable one, which also explains why it is more expensive.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1.http://www.superhvac.com/learn/insulation-basement?pk=ce64e590be3cb34c230d426caff7315d&t=k9sel9a6bfd4%2434145jr2e3kd3b18b62f193e2852c3a75efa
2.http://www.plasticsportalasia.net/wa/plasticsAP~en_GB/function/conversions:/publish/common/upload/foams/styrodur_technical_literature/Styrodur_cellar_insulation.pdf
3.http://www.basement-insulation.org/
4.http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/basement%20Insulation%20Technology%20fact.pdf
5.http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/AE_basement_insulation.html
6.http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf
7.http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html

Sagging or sloping floors are mainly due to inadequate deflecting or failing support beams. The other causes being rotted sills or an inadequate foundation. In addition to affecting the floor, these conditions can cause wall cracks and make it impossible to open doors and windows.

According to Dr. Sarah Kirby, housing specialist at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in Raleigh, sagging upper floors and those caused by insect or water damage should be checked by a contractor. Although it is possible to correct minor sags on a first floor with a pair of screw-type jack posts and a wood or steel beam to bridge the jacks, it is a difficult and somewhat risky task. An important thing to remember while dealing with sagging or sloping floors is that the posts need a very firm foundation. Even if you have a 4-inch concrete slab, you still need to create a concrete pier pad for the jack that is 18 to 24 inches square and at least 12 inches deep. Once these pier pads have cured and the jacks are in place, begin by raising the floor slowly, as little as a quarter turn per week. Jacking slowly allows for settling without serious disruptions or sudden stress. On the other hand, lifting might create additional wall cracks and change door and window margins.

For the mudroom that has a general slope to it, you may be looking at foundation or other structural problems.If you have foundation problems it is comparatively easier to find companies that specialize in foundation repair. They will come in and jack up the portion of the house with foundation problems and place new footers. Meanwhile, it is difficult to estimate the cost for this service, but based on the average charges in the market it would cost $8,000 or more. If your sloping floor is due to a deteriorated sill, you’ll have a difficult time finding crews who specialize in this kind of work. Foundation repair companies would not probably take the work, so you may have to resort to hiring a general contractor who may know of someone who does this kind of work. A good carpenter who possesses house jacks or one who is willing to rent them will certainly be able to do this work too, but you need to make certain that he has  experience with this type of work. There are chances that carpenters with lack of experience may be tempted to take on  the job because of the high fees involved. It is not possible to jack up a house in a day. It has to be jacked up slowly over weeks or even longer to avoid cracking wallboard, plaster, windows, and even structural elements.

A saggy, dipping dining room floor has its own set of problems. If you have access to the bottom of the floor, such as a basement or crawlspace, it is possible to jack up saggy joists until they are level and then sister them so that they remain straight after the jacks are removed. Another, cheaper fix is to put adjustable steel columns under the joists to keep them propped up. This steel column fix requires the base of the column be secured to the basement floor and the top of the column to be secured to the joist. Keep in mind that anything involving 20 ton house jacks will take time. You may also try a new hardwood over the existing floor. A plywood sub-floor would nicely bridge any minor waves in the existing floor, and leveling compound would help as well. You will have to make sure your joists can handle the addition of more weight: 3/4″ plywood subfloor and 3/4″ hardwood. On the bottom, you could always sister the joists and add a few adjustable columns to strengthen the joists to handle the additional weight. There are several problems that can cause a sagging or sloping floor, which is why fixing a sloping floor becomes difficult. Foundation issues, deteriorating wood supports (especially sills, which rest on the foundation footer), improperly installed joists or sub-floors, and other issues can all cause a floor to slope or sag. In many cases, fixing a sloping floor is an expensive and lengthy operation. It might also be difficult to find the right company to do the job. There are rare situations where you may just need to come to terms with your sagging, sloping floor, especially in the case of old houses. If your home has floors that are sloped and sagging, it is a good idea to have a professional evaluate if anything needs to be done.

IDENTIFYING THE ROOT CAUSE
Since this operation can get very expensive, unless you know a contractor that you trust 100% to identify the problem, you might consider hiring a structural engineer for the diagnosis. By hiring a structural engineer who will not have any part in the repair process to evaluate your sagging or sloping floor, you can be sure that the conclusion will be unaffected by the prospect of a profitable contract. He or she will also be able to advise you on the type of contractor your should hire to do the job, which can be confusing as some of the root causes of sagging and sloping floors fall under different categories.

FIXING A SLOPING FLOOR
If a professional has examined your floor and determined that its cause is something that could compromise the integrity of your house’s structure, you may be able to fix the root of the problem and leave the floor as is. If your sloping floor is severe enough that you simply cannot ignore it, fixing it should be a priority. Many older homes have problems with sloping and sagging floors. In a lot of cases, the owners of these homes simply ignore the problem or pass it off as a normal part of having a classic house. Sloping and sagging floors caused by foundation problems aren’t easy to fix, but finding a company to do the work shouldn’t be too difficult. Foundation specialists will repair any structural problems first; they will then use one technique to mend your sloping floor. This might involve jacking up floor joists and installing supports, or it could require jacking up the whole house and installing new footers. When done right, jacking up a house takes a long time. Plan in advance to avoid structural damage. If your sloping floor is caused by improper installation of the floor itself, you may be able to simply get the floor pulled up and installed again the right way or put down an entirely different floor. In some cases, you might have to install a new sub-floor or create a new moisture seal. Especially in older homes where the support system under the floor might be deteriorating or simply not that strong in the first place, additional support might need to be put in place to handle the weight of some flooring materials. In most cases, fixing sloping floors is involved enough that you probably won’t be able to get an estimate over the phone. It’s worth the time, however, to meet with and get estimates from several contractors to find both the best price and the company with the most experience doing this kind of work.

JACKING UP SLOPING FLOORS
The primary reason to jackup your home for sill plate,or foundation repair or replacement and floor joist damage is to rectify the floor-sag that gets created in the middle of a room or in the middle of the overall home. This type of damage must be repaired because it applies a great amount of stress on the other floor joists and support columns. This stress will lead to greater damage if the underlying cause is not repaired. Besides additional structural damage, you will develop cracks in plaster and drywall walls, and door frames will go out of square.In order to repair a floor joist that has split, it is necessary to jack up both sides of the floor joist until the joist is back in a level position. Using the hydraulic jacks, you should jack up each side 1/8 inch at a time. Do not try to jack up one side of the floor joist to level and then the other side; this will create undue pressures on the floor and walls above the split floor joist.

It may be necessary to use a chisel or reciprocating saw to remove any pieces of lumber that are hindering the joist from returning to a level position. Once the floor joist is level it can be repaired by taking two pieces of the same size lumber stock and attaching it to both sides of the damaged floor joist. Use nails to hold the pieces in place temporarily and then use construction adhesive in conjunction with 1/2 inch minimum diameter, carriage or machine bolts with heavy washers in a dice pattern 5 layout to hold the splints in permanently. When installing the bolts next to the split, in order to have non-damaged floor joist lumber where the bolts are going to be located, you need to back away from the split. The splints should extend a minimum of 2 feet on either side of the split. Support columns can be made of concrete block, brick, wood or steel. No matter what the material is, damage can occur over time. There are many different scenarios with respect to damaged columns and it is impossible to cover them all. However, there are really only two fixes that are available for any and all structural column problems.

• The  center of the steel support column does not have have the thickness (strength) to hold the additional support on the outside edges like the main floor beams. A problem such as this requires the replacement of the column (it is possible that after removal this column could be repaired by straightening the upper flange) with a new one and the addition of a thick steel plate to the bottom side of the beam in order to distribute the load to the center of the column. The steel plate should be at least a 1/2 inch thick and extend about a 1/2 inch past the width of the beam and should be square. In this case we have four 2x pieces of lumber making up the beam. At an actual width of 1 5/8 inch each the width of the beam would be 6 1/2 inches. Hence, a steel plate 7 1/2 inches square would be acceptable. The bigger and thicker the plate (within reason), the better. In order to replace the current support column with any other column, it is first necessary to take the load off of the support column. This means placing jacks on both sides of the support column to hold the upper structure in place, then jacking them up about 1/8 inch, and finally removing the current damaged support column.

• In some cases it is not the support column that has been damaged, but the floor below the support column. In the same manner, as we previously discussed about distributing the weight of the temporary support columns, in order to raise the floor by using a steel plate or 8 x 8 inch lumber, it is necessary to distribute the weight being carried by the support column. Most concrete floors are less than 4 inches thick and as a general statement contractors do not tamp down the earth below the floor, this does not make for a solid support for a structural column. A proper footing should be, at minimum, 8 inches thick and 2 feet square, and have a couple of pieces of rebar in the concrete inserted diagonally across the footing. The rebar should be tied together in the middle and be in the upper third of the footing when the concrete is poured. The concrete footing should not be connected to the concrete floor itself. When a column does not sit on a proper footing, it can actually break through the concrete. A support column needs to rest on a solid foundation and that foundation should not be the poured concrete basement floor, it should be a properly constructed footing.

SAGGING FLOORS
In homes that have a crawl space or basement, sagging floors can often be rectified quite easily by the insertion of a floor jack, or supporting posts or pillars. In many older homes the weakest point of the first floor’s joist system is commonly the area around the stairway to the basement. If the floors slope towards the stairway area, a floor jack or a series of floor jacks should be inserted under the lowest area to take the weight of the building. If the floor in the middle of a room is sagging or has a lot of bounce, a floor jack with a 4″x6″ piece of wood used on top of it supporting two or three joists, can be used to firm it up. Once the jacks are secured in place, they can be extended, exerting upward force on the building until the floors become level. In some cases the structure cannot be completely leveled, but the slope or sag can be lessened. Before installing floor jacks, a concrete footer (foundation) may need to be installed. Any broken joists or beams should be replaced. Floor jacks should only be raised a small amount every other day. A quarter of an inch every few days is probably enough. If the jacks are raised too quickly, the plaster work or joints in drywall will not have time to re-adjust to the repositioning and cracks will appear. Floor Jacks can be purchased at any construction material supplier.

Note: In the case of a massive structural failure, a floor jack alone will not be adequate and hence a professional contractor or structural engineer should be consulted.

These days people are frequently moving or relocating and with interest rates at where they are right now, it is no wonder that people are buying up houses to turn them into their new homes. Therefore, it is important to inspect the house thoroughly before deciding to buy it. Now, this means that a home inspector  will have to inspect the house that the home buyer is planning to purchase. A home inspection is a visual examination of all the major components of a home, including the physical structure and all its systems from the roof to the foundation. When you get a hold of a standard home inspector’s report, you will see that it includes an evaluation of the condition of the home’s heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems, the roof, attic, visible insulation, walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors, the foundation, basement, and other visible structures. The process is actually similar to giving your house a physical check-up. The home inspector is the doctor whose responsibility includes identifying problems or symptoms found. Once that is done, he will then refer you to the appropriate specialist  for further evaluation.

For an ordinary home buyer, you might find some of the problems enumerated in the home inspector’s report a bit difficult to understand. For instance, what does sagging floors mean? Does it mean you have to replace it immediately? Spend a lot of money? Or will it last for a few more years before you absolutely have to do something about its repairs? The cost for repairs is not getting any cheaper. As a home buyer, it is only natural that you would strive to protect yourself from spending more than you have to. In an effort to aid you on these issues, we have provided some answers to questions that you might have during or after the home inspection. If you have ever been in a building where you feel like you are getting pushed to one side and you cannot seem to stand up, you have either been drinking too much alcohol or the floor could be sloping. I was just in a store the other day that was full of antiques and glass, but I could hardly stand up because the floor was sloping enough to create what I would consider a liability issue to the store owner.

Sloping floors are not going to be that easy to fix and repair. Repairing these floors will require a little skill and it would be a good idea to hire a professional to repair the damage. This is not going to be a simple fix and this is probably the main reason most people never choose to fix their sloping floors.

What causes a sloping floor? Termite damage or dry rot destroying the wood framing, or it could be as simple as a water leak over a long period of time causing the building foundation to sink and become uneven. Poor soil conditions where it is either too sandy or is an expansive clay soil could be the culprit as well.
Sloping floors can be damaged from incorrect landscape drainage. This would involve water settling around the foundation of your home and over a period of time the weight of the house along with soil problems can create the building to start sloping to one side. Fixing these floors will require either pouring a new concrete slab, replacing the wood floor framing members, or replacing the actual building foundation itself. No matter how you look at it, the sloping floor is going to be a costly item to repair.
The number one contributor to a sloping floor again, like most damage done to a house, is going to be water. Do your best to keep the water away from the house using roof gutters and landscape drains. These items are relatively inexpensive compared to the costs involved in repairing sloping floors

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/sagging-floors.shtml

http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Sloping-Floors.11149.html

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/blog/sagging-beams-and-sloping-floors/

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218584-2,00.html