Have you ever thought of the positive effects of ventilating or dehumidifying your basement? Well, in order to understand these factors, let us first look at the causes of poor ventilation in your basement. A wet or damp basement could be a result of wall cracks and pipe leakages and weather conditions such as cold winters and floods. This leads to dampness along with stale air circulating within the basement which creates a favorable environment for the growth of mold and mildew. In contrast, during warm weather conditions, the humidity tends to be on the higher side and lack of ventilation in the basement leads to recurrence of stagnant air, bad odor and growth of mold.

How can this be avoided and what does it have to do with basement dehumidification? Apart from water damage dehumidification and mold remediation, basement dehumidifiers have always been considered as an alternative measure for moisture control, air exchange and ventilation, especially in areas like basements and crawl spaces. On the other hand, there have been issues such as the cost factor, daily maintenance and efficiency between traditional and modern humidifiers.

The benefits of having a high-quality, energy-efficient dehumidifier in your basement will definitely make up for the cost of buying and maintaining it in the long run. These benefits include:

1. Mold: As mentioned earlier, installing a dehumidifier in your home reduces the chances of mold damage, since the cleanup and replacement costs come at very high rates. In fact, many insurance policies do not cover mold-related expenses which leave us with the only option of trying to prevent the damage.

2. Health: The constant circulation of stale air inside the basement obviously affects the immune system, targeting the respiratory functions by inhaling allergens, bacteria, fungi and dust. This leads to colds, asthmas, flus, allergies and other respiratory problems. The installation of a dehumidifier reduces this risk and recycles the stale air circulating in the basement by condensation.

3. Space: Due to the common problems in the basement such as lack of ventilation, dampness and poor air circulation leading to an uncomfortable environment, these areas are not fully utilized as compared to other areas such as the living room. Dehumidifiers will help control and maintain temperature levels in basements at all times, providing cozy and comfortable surroundings.

4. Energy: The air molecules of damp air caused by the presence of moisture in the surroundings are heavier than the normal air molecules and therefore affect air circulation. This in turn leads to excessive or improper utilization of heating and cooling systems which require more energy.

5. Selling Opportunities: Homes with maximum living space have been found to be more attractive to potential buyers. Hence, basements that are well-finished, furnished and comfortable can be made to good use in various ways.

With cutting-edge technology and design at their best in the current scenario, there are energy-efficient dehumidifiers available at reasonable rates. These devices come along with considerable warranties and have improved air quality capable of getting rid of hassles like moisture, mold and condensation.

It is preferable to install basement dehumidifiers in an enclosed area for better efficiency. Installing exhaust fans in the bathrooms and ceiling fans in the basement will help in proper air circulation for sufficient ventilation. Basement dehumidifiers work in a simple way by drawing water vapor from the air and collecting it in a holding tank by condensation and then releasing the water through a drain pipe. They can be installed permanently with the help of a qualified professional or are portable for the user’s convenience to carry it wherever possible.

There are also various types of dehumidifiers. To learn more about Humidex and other dehumidifiers, visit http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?m=200909.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1. http://www.breathepureair.com/dehumidifiers_basement.html
2. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/basement-ventilation.html
3. http://hubpages.com/hub/Best-Basement-Dehumidifier-Must-For-Sultry-Basements
4. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html
5. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-ventilation
6. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-dehumidifier

Basements are usually recommended in areas that have steep slopes and experience extreme cold climatic conditions with low temperature and deep frost penetration. Deeper excavation comes in a package along with the construction and structure of basements, which of course increases costs, but results in a reliable, cozy and comfortable space.

One of the primary foundations in the United States are basements, but they are also accompanied by a number of common issues related to extreme temperatures like the cold winters, heat and humidity, water intrusion mold and an unhealthy environment. Research has shown that 25% of energy costs come from the heat loss of basements. Therefore, a properly sealed and insulated basement with protection from moisture is an additional necessity in reducing energy costs.

There are three basic methods that are used in basement insulation, namely, interior insulation, exterior insulation and insulated concrete forms. However, before sealing up and insulating the basement, one has to initially inspect the basement for any cracks or leaks that can be possible entries for moisture. These cracks and leaks should be repaired and sealed in order to allow the basement to dry completely, especially for insulation of basement walls.

1.  Interior Insulation: This is considered to be one of the simplest and cost-effective means of basement insulation. The installation is usually done behind interior framing or by furring strips placed against the foundation wall with a range of insulation materials. Special care has to be taken to ensure that the wall is completely sealed and dry from moisture which is likely to enter during the cold winters. For this reason, it is always suggested to use a non-absorbent material for the inner layer of the insulation. The disadvantage of interior insulation is that it reduces the usable interior space and is not as effective as exterior insulation in moisture protection.

2.  Exterior Insulation: Exterior insulation is equally important in protecting the basement from any additional moisture and cold weather. The exterior of the walls is insulated to reduce heat loss and condensation, and protect the interior of the basement from any unnecessary damage. Materials like extruded polystyrene are durable and moisture resistant for exterior insulation. This method of insulation can turn to be a little expensive with the type of material used, especially for an existing building. It is therefore advised to have a perimeter drainage system in place.

3. Insulated Concrete Forms: These products are comparatively new and can be installed easily. Hollow foam blocks are stacked together and then filled with concrete. They serve the purpose of both interior and exterior insulation, and are used as surfaces for attaching drywall, brick ties and other finish materials. Some of them are even treated with termite-resistant chemicals.

Is temperature maintenance in your basement only limited to extreme cold weather conditions? Well, the answer is no. As mentioned earlier, basements also face problems in humid conditions which are favorable for the growth of molds, microbes, dust mites and other organisms. These micro-organisms play a vital role in deteriorating health conditions.

Basement dehumidifiers are the best solution to reducing the humidity in the basement to normal recommended levels, which is between 40-60%. They are of two types, the portable unit and the installed unit. The portable unit is user-friendly, whereas the installed unit requires a qualified professional for installation. The latter are usually installed with a fan, heating pump and cooling coil. The moisture in the air is drawn by the fan over the heat pump. This water vapor is then condensed into water through the cooling coil and collected into a holding tank and can be removed either manually or through a drain hose installed in the unit. The installed basement dehumidifier is more efficient as compared to the portable one, which also explains why it is more expensive.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1.http://www.superhvac.com/learn/insulation-basement?pk=ce64e590be3cb34c230d426caff7315d&t=k9sel9a6bfd4%2434145jr2e3kd3b18b62f193e2852c3a75efa
2.http://www.plasticsportalasia.net/wa/plasticsAP~en_GB/function/conversions:/publish/common/upload/foams/styrodur_technical_literature/Styrodur_cellar_insulation.pdf
3.http://www.basement-insulation.org/
4.http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/basement%20Insulation%20Technology%20fact.pdf
5.http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/AE_basement_insulation.html
6.http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf
7.http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html

Sagging or sloping floors are mainly due to inadequate deflecting or failing support beams. The other causes being rotted sills or an inadequate foundation. In addition to affecting the floor, these conditions can cause wall cracks and make it impossible to open doors and windows.

According to Dr. Sarah Kirby, housing specialist at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in Raleigh, sagging upper floors and those caused by insect or water damage should be checked by a contractor. Although it is possible to correct minor sags on a first floor with a pair of screw-type jack posts and a wood or steel beam to bridge the jacks, it is a difficult and somewhat risky task. An important thing to remember while dealing with sagging or sloping floors is that the posts need a very firm foundation. Even if you have a 4-inch concrete slab, you still need to create a concrete pier pad for the jack that is 18 to 24 inches square and at least 12 inches deep. Once these pier pads have cured and the jacks are in place, begin by raising the floor slowly, as little as a quarter turn per week. Jacking slowly allows for settling without serious disruptions or sudden stress. On the other hand, lifting might create additional wall cracks and change door and window margins.

For the mudroom that has a general slope to it, you may be looking at foundation or other structural problems.If you have foundation problems it is comparatively easier to find companies that specialize in foundation repair. They will come in and jack up the portion of the house with foundation problems and place new footers. Meanwhile, it is difficult to estimate the cost for this service, but based on the average charges in the market it would cost $8,000 or more. If your sloping floor is due to a deteriorated sill, you’ll have a difficult time finding crews who specialize in this kind of work. Foundation repair companies would not probably take the work, so you may have to resort to hiring a general contractor who may know of someone who does this kind of work. A good carpenter who possesses house jacks or one who is willing to rent them will certainly be able to do this work too, but you need to make certain that he has  experience with this type of work. There are chances that carpenters with lack of experience may be tempted to take on  the job because of the high fees involved. It is not possible to jack up a house in a day. It has to be jacked up slowly over weeks or even longer to avoid cracking wallboard, plaster, windows, and even structural elements.

A saggy, dipping dining room floor has its own set of problems. If you have access to the bottom of the floor, such as a basement or crawlspace, it is possible to jack up saggy joists until they are level and then sister them so that they remain straight after the jacks are removed. Another, cheaper fix is to put adjustable steel columns under the joists to keep them propped up. This steel column fix requires the base of the column be secured to the basement floor and the top of the column to be secured to the joist. Keep in mind that anything involving 20 ton house jacks will take time. You may also try a new hardwood over the existing floor. A plywood sub-floor would nicely bridge any minor waves in the existing floor, and leveling compound would help as well. You will have to make sure your joists can handle the addition of more weight: 3/4″ plywood subfloor and 3/4″ hardwood. On the bottom, you could always sister the joists and add a few adjustable columns to strengthen the joists to handle the additional weight. There are several problems that can cause a sagging or sloping floor, which is why fixing a sloping floor becomes difficult. Foundation issues, deteriorating wood supports (especially sills, which rest on the foundation footer), improperly installed joists or sub-floors, and other issues can all cause a floor to slope or sag. In many cases, fixing a sloping floor is an expensive and lengthy operation. It might also be difficult to find the right company to do the job. There are rare situations where you may just need to come to terms with your sagging, sloping floor, especially in the case of old houses. If your home has floors that are sloped and sagging, it is a good idea to have a professional evaluate if anything needs to be done.

IDENTIFYING THE ROOT CAUSE
Since this operation can get very expensive, unless you know a contractor that you trust 100% to identify the problem, you might consider hiring a structural engineer for the diagnosis. By hiring a structural engineer who will not have any part in the repair process to evaluate your sagging or sloping floor, you can be sure that the conclusion will be unaffected by the prospect of a profitable contract. He or she will also be able to advise you on the type of contractor your should hire to do the job, which can be confusing as some of the root causes of sagging and sloping floors fall under different categories.

FIXING A SLOPING FLOOR
If a professional has examined your floor and determined that its cause is something that could compromise the integrity of your house’s structure, you may be able to fix the root of the problem and leave the floor as is. If your sloping floor is severe enough that you simply cannot ignore it, fixing it should be a priority. Many older homes have problems with sloping and sagging floors. In a lot of cases, the owners of these homes simply ignore the problem or pass it off as a normal part of having a classic house. Sloping and sagging floors caused by foundation problems aren’t easy to fix, but finding a company to do the work shouldn’t be too difficult. Foundation specialists will repair any structural problems first; they will then use one technique to mend your sloping floor. This might involve jacking up floor joists and installing supports, or it could require jacking up the whole house and installing new footers. When done right, jacking up a house takes a long time. Plan in advance to avoid structural damage. If your sloping floor is caused by improper installation of the floor itself, you may be able to simply get the floor pulled up and installed again the right way or put down an entirely different floor. In some cases, you might have to install a new sub-floor or create a new moisture seal. Especially in older homes where the support system under the floor might be deteriorating or simply not that strong in the first place, additional support might need to be put in place to handle the weight of some flooring materials. In most cases, fixing sloping floors is involved enough that you probably won’t be able to get an estimate over the phone. It’s worth the time, however, to meet with and get estimates from several contractors to find both the best price and the company with the most experience doing this kind of work.

JACKING UP SLOPING FLOORS
The primary reason to jackup your home for sill plate,or foundation repair or replacement and floor joist damage is to rectify the floor-sag that gets created in the middle of a room or in the middle of the overall home. This type of damage must be repaired because it applies a great amount of stress on the other floor joists and support columns. This stress will lead to greater damage if the underlying cause is not repaired. Besides additional structural damage, you will develop cracks in plaster and drywall walls, and door frames will go out of square.In order to repair a floor joist that has split, it is necessary to jack up both sides of the floor joist until the joist is back in a level position. Using the hydraulic jacks, you should jack up each side 1/8 inch at a time. Do not try to jack up one side of the floor joist to level and then the other side; this will create undue pressures on the floor and walls above the split floor joist.

It may be necessary to use a chisel or reciprocating saw to remove any pieces of lumber that are hindering the joist from returning to a level position. Once the floor joist is level it can be repaired by taking two pieces of the same size lumber stock and attaching it to both sides of the damaged floor joist. Use nails to hold the pieces in place temporarily and then use construction adhesive in conjunction with 1/2 inch minimum diameter, carriage or machine bolts with heavy washers in a dice pattern 5 layout to hold the splints in permanently. When installing the bolts next to the split, in order to have non-damaged floor joist lumber where the bolts are going to be located, you need to back away from the split. The splints should extend a minimum of 2 feet on either side of the split. Support columns can be made of concrete block, brick, wood or steel. No matter what the material is, damage can occur over time. There are many different scenarios with respect to damaged columns and it is impossible to cover them all. However, there are really only two fixes that are available for any and all structural column problems.

• The  center of the steel support column does not have have the thickness (strength) to hold the additional support on the outside edges like the main floor beams. A problem such as this requires the replacement of the column (it is possible that after removal this column could be repaired by straightening the upper flange) with a new one and the addition of a thick steel plate to the bottom side of the beam in order to distribute the load to the center of the column. The steel plate should be at least a 1/2 inch thick and extend about a 1/2 inch past the width of the beam and should be square. In this case we have four 2x pieces of lumber making up the beam. At an actual width of 1 5/8 inch each the width of the beam would be 6 1/2 inches. Hence, a steel plate 7 1/2 inches square would be acceptable. The bigger and thicker the plate (within reason), the better. In order to replace the current support column with any other column, it is first necessary to take the load off of the support column. This means placing jacks on both sides of the support column to hold the upper structure in place, then jacking them up about 1/8 inch, and finally removing the current damaged support column.

• In some cases it is not the support column that has been damaged, but the floor below the support column. In the same manner, as we previously discussed about distributing the weight of the temporary support columns, in order to raise the floor by using a steel plate or 8 x 8 inch lumber, it is necessary to distribute the weight being carried by the support column. Most concrete floors are less than 4 inches thick and as a general statement contractors do not tamp down the earth below the floor, this does not make for a solid support for a structural column. A proper footing should be, at minimum, 8 inches thick and 2 feet square, and have a couple of pieces of rebar in the concrete inserted diagonally across the footing. The rebar should be tied together in the middle and be in the upper third of the footing when the concrete is poured. The concrete footing should not be connected to the concrete floor itself. When a column does not sit on a proper footing, it can actually break through the concrete. A support column needs to rest on a solid foundation and that foundation should not be the poured concrete basement floor, it should be a properly constructed footing.

SAGGING FLOORS
In homes that have a crawl space or basement, sagging floors can often be rectified quite easily by the insertion of a floor jack, or supporting posts or pillars. In many older homes the weakest point of the first floor’s joist system is commonly the area around the stairway to the basement. If the floors slope towards the stairway area, a floor jack or a series of floor jacks should be inserted under the lowest area to take the weight of the building. If the floor in the middle of a room is sagging or has a lot of bounce, a floor jack with a 4″x6″ piece of wood used on top of it supporting two or three joists, can be used to firm it up. Once the jacks are secured in place, they can be extended, exerting upward force on the building until the floors become level. In some cases the structure cannot be completely leveled, but the slope or sag can be lessened. Before installing floor jacks, a concrete footer (foundation) may need to be installed. Any broken joists or beams should be replaced. Floor jacks should only be raised a small amount every other day. A quarter of an inch every few days is probably enough. If the jacks are raised too quickly, the plaster work or joints in drywall will not have time to re-adjust to the repositioning and cracks will appear. Floor Jacks can be purchased at any construction material supplier.

Note: In the case of a massive structural failure, a floor jack alone will not be adequate and hence a professional contractor or structural engineer should be consulted.

These days people are frequently moving or relocating and with interest rates at where they are right now, it is no wonder that people are buying up houses to turn them into their new homes. Therefore, it is important to inspect the house thoroughly before deciding to buy it. Now, this means that a home inspector  will have to inspect the house that the home buyer is planning to purchase. A home inspection is a visual examination of all the major components of a home, including the physical structure and all its systems from the roof to the foundation. When you get a hold of a standard home inspector’s report, you will see that it includes an evaluation of the condition of the home’s heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems, the roof, attic, visible insulation, walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors, the foundation, basement, and other visible structures. The process is actually similar to giving your house a physical check-up. The home inspector is the doctor whose responsibility includes identifying problems or symptoms found. Once that is done, he will then refer you to the appropriate specialist  for further evaluation.

For an ordinary home buyer, you might find some of the problems enumerated in the home inspector’s report a bit difficult to understand. For instance, what does sagging floors mean? Does it mean you have to replace it immediately? Spend a lot of money? Or will it last for a few more years before you absolutely have to do something about its repairs? The cost for repairs is not getting any cheaper. As a home buyer, it is only natural that you would strive to protect yourself from spending more than you have to. In an effort to aid you on these issues, we have provided some answers to questions that you might have during or after the home inspection. If you have ever been in a building where you feel like you are getting pushed to one side and you cannot seem to stand up, you have either been drinking too much alcohol or the floor could be sloping. I was just in a store the other day that was full of antiques and glass, but I could hardly stand up because the floor was sloping enough to create what I would consider a liability issue to the store owner.

Sloping floors are not going to be that easy to fix and repair. Repairing these floors will require a little skill and it would be a good idea to hire a professional to repair the damage. This is not going to be a simple fix and this is probably the main reason most people never choose to fix their sloping floors.

What causes a sloping floor? Termite damage or dry rot destroying the wood framing, or it could be as simple as a water leak over a long period of time causing the building foundation to sink and become uneven. Poor soil conditions where it is either too sandy or is an expansive clay soil could be the culprit as well.
Sloping floors can be damaged from incorrect landscape drainage. This would involve water settling around the foundation of your home and over a period of time the weight of the house along with soil problems can create the building to start sloping to one side. Fixing these floors will require either pouring a new concrete slab, replacing the wood floor framing members, or replacing the actual building foundation itself. No matter how you look at it, the sloping floor is going to be a costly item to repair.
The number one contributor to a sloping floor again, like most damage done to a house, is going to be water. Do your best to keep the water away from the house using roof gutters and landscape drains. These items are relatively inexpensive compared to the costs involved in repairing sloping floors

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/sagging-floors.shtml

http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Sloping-Floors.11149.html

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/blog/sagging-beams-and-sloping-floors/

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218584-2,00.html

Basement flooding and damage is common during rainy and winter seasons. Each year, millions are spent for damp proofing basements. Many Americans are unaware but moisture due to snowfall can cause the same amount of damage to the basement as water logging can. In this article we would like to share our thoughts about snow and its adverse impact on the basement.

WHAT IS SNOW?

Snow is different from frozen rain. Basically, it is water trapped in solid form. Snowflakes are created within clouds by tiny crystals that stick together post-collision. Most snowflakes melt, and, on reaching the ground, fall as rain. Snow falls only when the air near the ground appears cold enough.

Excessive moisture damages basement in two ways-

 Wet snow with or below freezing ground – Here, the snow accumulates on ground and appears sticky, thanks to the high partial liquid content.

 Wet snow with or above freezing ground – Wet snow contains high amount of liquid as soon as it reaches the surface. It is composed of 50 % water. It receives liquid content by partially melting before hitting the ground. Here, very less snow accumulates on ground.

BASEMENT PROBLEMS DUE TO MELTING SNOW

Sometimes, melting snow causes extreme basement problems. Winter has its own problem altogether. The moment the snow melts on ground, it runs off towards foundation from where it seeps into wall cracks, fissuring into the thawed ground.

When ice dams build up on roofs from melting snow, it eventually weakens the walls, besides leaking into basements. You can prevent ice buildup by using de-icing cables near roof edge and in downspouts and gutters. Don’t pile snow against the house. Ensure the sump pump hose discharge doesn’t have low spots for the water to get collected and freeze.

While experiencing freeze, disconnect the discharge pipe or hose and bring it indoors so that it thaws out. The moment the ice is freed, reconnect the pipe or hose, ensuring the water drains nearly 10 feet away from basement foundation.

Don’t wait for snowfall or rainy season for basement waterproofing. Leaky basements mean stepping in the water in the stocking feet. Usually, this happens during fall rainy, spring or winter season. Before calling for waterproof-ed, conduct an estimate and repair. The best time is dry months and winter.

Additional steps to prevent basement flooding

To curb basement flooding, homeowners might take few steps:-

 Watch for standing water pooling on the ground and those running down a house foundation

 Drain away any melting snow from the ground and roof

Things to be considered for spring runoff:-

 Clear roof drains of snow, ice and other obstructions, ensuring that the melting snow doesn’t spill over and flows properly.

 Drain water at about two meters from the external walls and also run into land allowing it to simply flow away from the house.

 For excess snow, check roof and eaves troughs.

 Shovel snow away from basement window sills wherever possible.

 Remove snow build-up and ice ridges on ground preventing water from draining into the streets.

 Don’t shovel snow into the streets as it can stop drainage.

For any questions about your home’s flood prevention, seek assistance from basement waterproofing experts. We at keystone basement solutions, are always available at your disposal. For more details, please click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

What could be the most cherished and proud possession one can have? Although, this is more likely to be a subjective matter, short-listing the optimal universal answer would not be an issue. Besides, I am quite sure you will agree with me your own ‘edifice ‘will be among your cherished possessions.

Creating something so large and important, which bears your mark on it, doesn’t come very easy on you. (And this factor, does not necessarily apply only to personal constructions, but to civic structures, too.) In this article, we would like to share some tips for cheering up your pocket.

Before we share our thoughts, it would be more helpful if you know which aspect of construction incurs the major part of the expenditure. According to most of the construction research reports published and as per the statements from engineers, major part of the investment is directed to the material cost (around 60%). 30% of the total budget is spent on labour, and approximately 10% cost is exhausted on miscellaneous aspects.

As per the ‘Building Materials and Technology Promotion Council , Government of India’, (as shown in the figure) major part of the total construction expenditure originates from the purchases of foundation structure-materials (like cement and bricks), followed by labour cost and fees for different professionals. Other disbursement is done on things like plumbing, paints, flooring, etc.

Having shared the relevant information about the construction costs, we will now share our thoughts on how one can pull down the construction cost by paying attention to the important aspects of constructing a building The Structure Outline

It is said, “Your best efforts are made before even you break the ground”. This is so true! Outlining the structure is nothing but making of a ‘laddering chart analysis’ that scrutinizes the deliverables in a project. Each succeeding level in this plan embodies a progressively more detailed description of each project deliverable. It also identifies a timeline required to complete a particular construction.

This systematic ‘branching off’ of the tasks, makes it very easy for the project manager to adhere to the timeline, making it possible to function as planned, and in response expurgating the likelihood of increase in the budget.

Pre-Commencement Estimation: Keeping in mind the estimation of costs (or your maximum budget), you should first plan and design carefully on the paper. This avoids blunders in the initial cost of construction and construction material, utilities, maintenance, etc.

Avoid unnecessary and (insanely) expensive features, which you can live without, despite not missing out much on the luxury part. But economical construction should not be confused with inferior construction. Poor quality of labour and substandard material can never be “cost-effective” in long run. Maintenance and repair cost in the future, very soon tires out the initial savings achieved by commencing inferior construction.

Discount Contractor Supplies: Some contractors can avail the discount on construction hardware as well as household appliances supplies. The manufacturers, from whom the discount is gained can be of an affluent status, ensuring the durability of the product. So getting discount doesn’t necessarily mean getting a shoddy product.

The supplies that are generally covered in the contractor discounts are fasteners (nuts and bolts, screws, nails, etc.), lumber, drywall, electrical appliances, plumbing materials, etc.

To look for a substantially low-cost discount contractor, internet is a good option. Many websites offer discount to their members through major outlets. These web-based outlets offer low prices on many items that builders and renovators use on regular basis. Other way to find such discounted home supplies is to visit discount home supply outlet that have such supplies at much lower cost than you find in any big chain-store.

You may also want to consider the option of using recycled materials that are retrieved from demolition sites. These materials are inspected and are in usable condition. These tools are available at much lower cost than others, moreover its environment friendly and avoids the waste of resources.

Green Construction:As the name suggests, you might as well have figured out that this is a practice that engages into building structures and using edifice methods that are environment friendly. In this practice more recycled materials are used while constructing buildings.

However, talking in regards with the cost, green techniques might come across as more expensive procedures, due to modern technologies. The saving of money, in case of green constructions, doesn’t come from the up-front cost, but rather it shows in the form of life-cycle cost. The buildings constructed by using green technology, are designed to consume little or no utility-supplied energy. You save money in the long run, by using more environment-efficient utilities that result in reduced energy bills. This gains you a tremendous benefit, when the prices of coal, oil, and natural gas seem to be mounting constantly. As a bottom-line you conserve resources and cut down on wastes, resulting in saving more money.

Good Drainage System Installation: There are certain aspects, while undertaking a construction work, which can not (and must not) be taken nonchalantly. Setting up the perfect drainage system is definitely one such thing. Disposing of the waste is a very critical task, which if not carried out properly or is performed using poor quality materials, causes not only lot of frustration and fatigue, but also a ridiculous money-squander on reassembling a new drainage system. Always make sure to select a competent drainage-system material, even though it costs a little more. This will be your one-time expenditure, and it will be money-well-spent.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source http://www.bmtpc.org/COST_OF_CONSTRUCTION/cost_of_construction_stage_wise.htm

Water seepage is a central causal agent in the declension or deterioration in building edifices and elements. Rain water collects in the ground around a house and, more often than not, slowly seeps into the foundation causing an excess of moisture which further aids the growth of mold and fungi that corrode and eat away into wood. This action of ground water seeping into the foundation of a house by means of capillary action is known as ‘rising damp’. Rising damp, a serious issue which cannot be overlooked, is a health hazard and ruins the décor of the structure as well. This phenomenon of rising ground moisture can be controlled and avoided by damp proofing the structure.

There are several techniques available today by which a building can be protected from the effects of pervasive nature of moisture. Damp proofing membrane systems are very convenient procedures to treating rising damp. A common and practical alternative to the more traditional methods like chemical Damp Proofing Course (DPC) and the application of treated paints and external water repellents; damp proofing membranes are more user friendly. The application of damp proofing membranes is a preferred practice since it requires nominal preparation, it is easy and quick to install, it is congenial and responsive to any structure, can be inverted and aerated making it ideal for restoration projects.

According to the International Residential Building Code, a building must be damp proofed when setting down the foundation. If a building is not waterproofed, a damp proofing is an essential process that cannot be avoided. Any habitable space below grade level must be treated with an application of bituminous coating or a damp proofing membrane in order to be habitable. The membrane fills pores, gaps and spaces that form in the concrete, sealing moisture from getting into the interior foundation by capillary action. Damp proofing the top of the footing is also recommended by the building code, this will prevent water from rising up from the footing into the foundation.

A Damp proofing membrane, very basically, is a layer of an impervious material like asphalt or an underlay plastic sheet, which can be placed either under or over the ground slab. Similar to tanking, damp proof membranes are built to prevent wood decay and rot caused by ground moisture seepage. Surface damp proof membranes are usually made of mastic asphalt and placed over the ground slab. Used most often in cases where a suspended floor is constructed to replace the existing solid floor.

Damp proofing can be applied by two methods, the solid application and the chemical or fluid application. The solid application is the addition of a layer of impermeable material like asphalt or creosote based products, whereas the fluid application is the process of injecting epoxy based chemicals into the foundation. The liquid application is usually applied to the ground layer by using a trowel, brush, roller or spray. In order to protect the applied membrane from damage, protective boards which work as drainage composites are applied over the liquid membrane. This also provides better protection from water vapor and also acts as a channel for extra water to drain out. Damp proofing membranes are also available in the peel and stick variety. These membranes bind with the EPC in the ground floor, some stick on membranes recommend the application of a formulated primer on the surface to further enhance the cohesive properties of the membrane.

Damp proofing is often confused with water proofing. Although similar, waterproofing is very different from damp proofing. Damp proofing is a process by which water vapor accumulation is retarded by the addition of a layer of impermeable material. Damp proofing is an age old method to prevent from water and salt decay in buildings. However, apart from slowing down water vapor transmission, damp proofing does not fill in cracks in the foundation. Most of damp proofing membranes become brittle, whereas some dissolve in ground water after a while.  Yet, damp proofing is more commonly used by builders as it is cheaper.

Waterproofing on the other hand, a more expensive project to undertake, seals a building from rising water moisture caused by hydrostatic pressure. The compounds used when waterproofing are designed to put a stop to water. Water proofing uses a rubber based material that is capable of stretching over time, thus covering cracks as time wears the foundation of the structure down. Environmentally friendly, waterproofing materials have varying compositions. Some are urethane based, some are asphalt or concrete based, where others are clay based and then there are rubber based polymers as well. All these compounds can spread over the foundation, bridging gaps created in the foundation as time settles. When installed correctly water proofing can keep a basement dry for years to come.

Consult an expert who can help you take a wise decision. If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems and if your house is located in any of these regions, call us at 800 771 – 3244 or visit us at

http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html. Schedule your appointment and seek solution to your basement woes, now!

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Basement is a multipurpose area of a house which can be converted into a workout area, a garage, an entertainment room or a laundry, depending upon the homeowner’s requirement. Before you frame your basement walls, it is important to ensure your room is free of leak and moisture. Read further to know how you can frame your basement walls.

BASEMENT WALL FRAMING:

 The first step to frame the basement walls is to design the wall layout. This step will ensure the ceiling joists are closely lined up with the wall studs. One must also ensure to keep the ground floor joists in place.

 On the basement floor, mark chalk lines to spot the walls. Install 2” x 4” treated lumber for the floor plates. Treated lumber is the best remedy to avoid the risk of damage caused to the construction due tof moisture.

 To bolt bottom plates in correct position, use concrete screw gun.

 Directly install the ceiling plates, just above the floor plates. Instead of a treated one, go for regular 2” x 4” lumber. Now, using framing nails, fix plates beneath the ground floor joists.

 When you take the studs in floor joists as reference point, start fixing wall studs on the 16”center. When you line the studs up, actually, you offer easy access for wiring, venting and plumbing process in the future.

 Slight level variations are a must in concrete floor. Hence, first measure and then cut the studs individually.

 To secure the studs’ top and bottom to floor plates and ceiling, use a framing nail gun. The nails must be inserted at 45 degrees.

 Make sure that there is a minimum of ½ inch gap between the existing basement concrete walls and the newly framed walls. This decreases the formation of moisture on the concrete’s inside, preventing the dampening of wood.

VAPOR BARRIER INSTALLATION

Checking the basement condition before considering the vapor barrier installation is quite important. Basements having various unfinished cement walls get waterproofed with certain special sealants. Nevertheless, in case you finish basement with false walls or drywall sheets, there are various things to remember.

WHY A VAPOR BARRIER?

There are various schools of thought on vapor barrier and its effectiveness, also called as vapor retarder. Such protective sheets are secured to the basement walls to prevent moisture that seeps into the walls of the home. Moisture affecting walls can cause a serious problem with mildew, mold and rot.

Let us also look at the various other problems that are caused due to moisture:-

 The barrier isn’t correctly positioned or loosely installed around pipes, outlets and various other connecting regions

 Vapor barrier facing insulation is installed when the barrier, rather than facing the wall, faces the room

 With an attached vapor barrier, supplemental insulation gets layered over any existing insulation

 Any such circumstance would render vapor barrier completely useless

The following materials are used as vapor retarders:-

 Paper-backed insulation, known also as Kraft paper that faces UI
 Paper-backed aluminum
 Visquine (polyethylene plastic sheet)
 Rigid insulation and
 Roofing membrane sheets

NECESSITY OF INSTALLING VAPOR BARRIERS IN BASEMENTS

The necessity of vapor barrier installation in the basement area arises based on the necessity and the direction faced by the barrier for moisture prevention. As a matter of fact, not all homes require such application.
Below is a simple thumb rule as guidance:-

 If the area where you reside remains cold for more than six months, better install vapor protection internally, with the barrier facing the interior of the wall or the warm side. This keeps moisture from condensation and from reaching outside walls.

 If it is humid and hot where you live, better install vapor protection externally, with the barrier facing the exterior or the warm side of the wood or siding. This helps to prevent the moisture from getting into the inside walls.

 If you have an even season mix, you wouldn’t require a vapor retarder at all. Review your area’s local building codes to find what most professionals recommend.

 Always note – if you pour a basement floor made of concrete, regardless of where you stay, you would require a vapor barrier. In most situations, what works is a cross-laminated polyethylene sheet. For more direction, check with your local hardware store.

TIPS TO INSTALL VAPOR BARRIERS IN BASEMENT

 Always check the walls for damage, including existing moisture and cracks. Before adding a barrier, these need to be repaired

 Before placing insulation and studs, most building experts recommend vapor barrier installation in basement

 Staple the material to the studs, if they already are in place. Simply pull it across tightly and, as far as possible, flatly cover large surfaces

 Ensure that you don’t cut or tear the material

 Use a sealant to secure the material and align your barrier right up to the pipes, electrical outlets, windows and various other obstructions

 Now install non-faced insulation over vapor barrier. In case the insulation has an already attached barrier, or if you install a new insulation over the old, create long cuts so as to avoid the bubble effect. Moisture may seep between barriers, leading to rotting in insulation

 If your insulation has the attached protection, you need not install vapor retardant. However, remember – the insulation side faces the exterior and the paper barrier side faces interior

 Try not to manipulate insulation in any manner. It need not be stretched, puffed or fluffed, and, while doing so, may tear attached barriers. Simply unroll and thereafter put it up

 Some rigid insulation also serve as vapor barriers. To see if the selection pulls double -duty, check your coding

 Based on the basement size, it takes four hours for two people. Depending on the type of material used and the square footage, the material costs change. To ensure you don’t require a permit, check the building codes of your area

 Also, when handling insulation, take necessary precautions. Wear long sleeves, work gloves, eye protection and a face mask

IS WOOD BETTER OR METAL FOR SUBTERRANEAN SPACES?

While renovating basements most choose to use metal studs for wall framing purposes. The decision is fully dependent on measuring the advantages and disadvantages of both metal and wood studs.

As indicated in the website of ‘ThumbandHammer’ we would like to share the comparison parameters between metal and wood studs:-

 Convenience: Here, metal wins easily over wood. It appears much lighter compared to wood, and, takes just the space of one lumber piece. This makes transportation easier. Usually, metal is cut with the help of aviation snips, meaning absence of sawdust. Nevertheless, one should wear gloves to protect the hands. Also, care has to be exercised to clean up the small pieces that end up on the floor

 Strength: Compared to the two materials, wood is sturdier. Though metal appears flimsy, once drywall gets screwed to it, it seems rigid and strong.Nevertheless, metal won’t be suitable for heavy mirrors or hanging cabinets. Most metal framing don’t have structural strength. They can only be used for partition walls

 Forgiveness: In case you make mistakes in measurements or if the stud isn’t vertical, as most metal studs are attached with the screws, moving and removing them is extremely simple

 Cost: Initially, it appears metal is inexpensive compared to wood. Nevertheless, the cost of electrical boxes for metal studs is more. And unless shielded BX cable is used, plastic grommets are used to run standard electric wires. Metal also needs screws for construction purposes and for attaching moldings. Though the initial lumber cost appears more than the metal studs, the additional metal costs put things evenly placed

 Stableness: Unlike metal, wood is more prone to warping and twisting. While wood wicks moisture metal rusts. Hence a sill gasket or a vapour barrier is required between concrete floor and bottom plate

 Ecological concerns: Sometimes, metal framing are promoted as an eco-friendly solution for wood. Nevertheless, both have their negative and positive points. Timber comes from trees. Generally, cutting trees down is considered bad for environment although wood is a renewable source. Though wood scraps are biodegradable, most end up in landfill
Metal can be easily recycled. Generally, recycling is believed to be good for environment, but metal-recycling causes some amount of pollution. The metal- ore has to be refined and mined to produce metal, which negatively impacts the environment.

 Fire related concerns: Unlike wood, metal is incombustible. A wall constructed with metal- studs is virtually fire-resistant

 Transfer of Cold: As metal is a good conductor of cold, metal studs transfer the cold. Hence, rigid foam insulation or polystyrene are recommended between metal and the outside wall. With wood, the transfer of cold is less

The choice of the material is purely based on the homeowner’s preference; however, consultation from an expert can do wonders to your basement.

Check with a professional in your area who can help you take the best and effective measure to keep your basement dry even during the rains.  If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems and if your house is located in any of these regions, call us at 800 771 – 3244 or visit us at

http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html. Schedule your appointment and seek solution to your basement woes, now!

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source links: http://thumbandhammer.com/diy/framing.html

Basement flooding has assumed serious proportions in United States and Canada with nearly 80,000 incidents each year and many others remaining unreported. Apart from the inconvenience and mess, floods cause structural damage and health hazards.
Simple preventive measures to combat basement flooding are undertaken by homeowners, like downspouts extension away from the foundation.  Most other solutions require professional help such as installation of flood-proof device.

This involves explanation of sump pump operation, municipal sewer system and sources of additional information. Basement flooding is a serious problem and has various negative consequences much beyond and above inconvenient disruption and household routine mess.

Recent research has cited the following impacts:-

 Chronically wet houses contribute to respiratory ailments

 Frequent basement flooding occurrences can cause long-term damage to the equipment and building not covered through insurance.

 To compensate for regular claims related to basement flooding, the insurance rates can rise.

 Also, the minimum deductibles can be significantly increased

 With the basement getting prone to frequent flooding, the value of property can depreciate

WHAT ARE THE REASONS THAT CAUSE BASEMENT TO FLOOD?

Before taking appropriate measures, it is important to identify basement flooding and its causes. These vary from problems associated with the municipal sewer systems that serve entire communities to problems within the household basement.

CAUSES FOR BASEMENT FLOODING:-

There are various reasons as to how water can enter the basement. Most likely, water in basement seeps during a period of heavy rainfall or when the snow melts rapidly during a thaw in spring season.

In such cases, your basement can get wet due to:-

 Poor drainage

 Crack or leak in the  basement walls

 Failure of foundation drains (weeping tiles)

 Plugged/leaking downspouts or overflowing eaves troughs

Basement flooding can also occur due to:-

 Wastewater back-up in sewer system (or a combination of rainwater and wastewater from the combined sewer system or sanitary sewer system)

 Blocked connection between main sewer in the street and your home

 Sump pump failure (in certain areas), used for pumping out weeping tile water

Most basements also get vulnerable to various disasters related to Natural River flooding. However, such calamities cannot be addressed by the individual homeowner.

VARIOUS MEASURES TO PREVENT BASEMENT FLOODING

Problems related to basement flooding are diagnosed best by working your way down from downspouts and eavestroughs, to the foundation and lot drainage and thereafter to the plumbing system – both beyond its connection to the municipal sewer system and inside your home. Hence, expert advice will ensure that the right and economical solution is advocated with less hassles.

Downspouts and Eavestroughs

Water simply pours into downspouts off eavestroughs. If the downspouts pump-out  water just beside the foundation, it directly drains to weeping tiles, easily overloading the home’s drainage.

Ensure that the downspouts extend about 6 feet (1.8 meters) from basement wall. Also ensure that the water doesn’t get drained towards the neighbor’s basement walls. It needs to drain toward the street away from the house, the back lane or the rear yard.

If the downspouts get connected to the home’s weeping tile or sewer system, it simply disconnects them.

For this, it is important that you start cleaning debris from the eavestroughs on a regular basis. In case they overflow even when they are clean, replace them with larger size downspouts and eavestroughs.

Lot Grading Technique

If the land in and around the home starts sloping towards the foundation, rainwater first heads straight for the basement weeping tile, causing foundation drainage system to overload. Over a period of time, the land around the home settles and slopes towards the foundation. If the lot slopes inward, grade the lot and fill in the lot for about 6 feet or 1.8 meters around the foundation, this will ensure the land to slope away from the house.

It is important to build up a ground in and around the house such that the water starts draining from the basement walls. It’s also nice to examine the driveways, decks, patios and sidewalks. These can either cause water to drain back towards basement walls or settle over a stretch of time.

It is best to extend the downspouts so that the water doesn’t get collected next to windows and basement walls and just flows away from the house.

Proper form of drainage helps in:-

 Reducing the water amount flowing to the main sewer system and to the home’s sewer system and also reduce the sewer backup risk.

 Reduce water seepage into home through cracks in basement walls or through basement windows

 Maintain stable moisture content of the soil under and around the house so as to decrease cracking and shifting chances.

 In case the water collects next to basement, it could make its way to footings supporting the basement walls.

 Moisture causes the footings to settle or heave

 Just extend your sump pump’s life by decreasing the quantum of work it requires to do.

 Ensure that any drainage related improvements does not cause the water to flow into neighbor’s property.

DEVICES FOR BASEMENT FLOOD PROOFING

If there is an overload in the neighborhood’s or your home drainage system, you would still be in a position to prevent sewage and rain water from backing up into the basement through installation of either single or multiple flood proofing devices, such as back flow valves or sump pumps.

Every installation is unique in its own and few devices (such as back flow valves) would require a plumbing permit. Before you proceed with any installation, check with your qualified plumber or municipal office.

DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF A SUMP PIT

The drainage system of the sump pit involves a sump pump, a discharge pipe and a sump pit. Set into basement floor, the sump pit starts collecting water from the basement’s weeping tiles. Using a discharge pipe, the pump pushes water outside the house.

The sump pump discharge pipe should be placed such that:-

 It drains water into the segment of the property where the water could be absorbed easily, such as flower bed or lawn

 Fails to direct water onto neighboring streets, sidewalks, lanes or properties

SUMP PIT

Each year, after freeze up, make it a point to clean the pit. Drainage of weeping tile would carry small amount of debris, sand and soil into a pit from the basement foundation. If the water is logged for a long time, it remains in the pit causing a musty smell. If this is the case, pit flushing is extremely easy and best solution. It can be done by by streaming fresh water till the pump removes the stale water.

SUMP PUMP

Each spring, test and check your pump before the rains start. To trigger the pump’s operation, simply stream water into the pit.

At least once a year, remove and clean your pump. Before cleaning or handling, it is vital to disconnect pump from the power source. Very often, check the pit so that you can ensure that it is debris-free. Most pumps contain screen that covers the water intake. Hence, always make it a point to clean up the screen.

DISCHARGE PIPE OF SUMP PUMP

Simply check the place as to where the discharge pipe can leave the house. In case the pipe appears to discharge right against basement walls, the water drains down into weeping tiles, continuing its recycling process through the system. Regularly check the discharge point to ensure there is nothing that would block the flow.

In case the pump frequently runs in winter and if the resulting ice causes hazardous conditions on the sidewalks and the lawn, it is better to take the help of the municipal office.

BACKWATER VALVE

Backwater valve is a wonderful device which blocks sewage in the main overloaded sewer line from backing up into the basement.

If the sewer backs up, then the valve closes automatically. Here, it is important to place a properly installed backwater valve so that the sewage backup stops and hardly comes out through other basement outlets, such as laundry tubs, showers, toilets and sinks. Always ensure that at all times, you can get at the valve.

Regularly check the valve and remove those materials which would prevent the proper operation of the valve. Normally, you would need an inspection and permit for installation of sump pit and backwater valve. As the basement floor would be partly dug up and as it is important to have proper item placement, seek a qualified contractor for plumbing purposes.

MAINTENANCE OF PLUMBING FIXTURE

Always have the qualified plumber inspect the plumbing fixtures and flood-proofing devices (i.e. floor drains, backwater valves, sump pumps etc.) regularly to ensure proper operation. For more safety guidelines and detailed information, check the operating instructions, or simply request the plumber to explain the system details.

ADDITIONAL MEASURES OF PROTECTION

You can also consider many additional measures as a way of flood protection.

BACKUP SUMP PUMP

Very often, severe storms are accompanied with power blackouts. Backup sump pump powered by a battery could be a highly prudent investment. Most pumps are made to simply fit in besides the main area of sump pump and also have the audible alarm, which warns the failure of the main pump, so that one could attend to its replacement or repair. There also are numerous water-powered sump pumps available which run by water and which flows through pump impeller.

BASEMENT FURNISHINGS AND FINISHES

In any event where the basement flooding risk appears possible, it is highly advisable to install impermeable wall and floor finishes like ceramic tiles, to make the cleanup easier and to lessen the damage. Ensure the basement furniture includes legs that keep furniture fabrics above flood waters.

A good alternative to complete broadloom are area rugs as they could be properly cleaned and removed in any flood damage event.

HOW DO FRENCH DRAINS PREVENT THE FLOODING OF BASEMENT

Also known as trench drain, French drain is a simple way to direct the water away from home foundations. It could be buried either underneath the basement floor or alongside the exterior foundation wall or the perimeter wall.

HOW CAN A FRENCH DRAIN BE CONSTRUCTED

A French drain, in simple terms, is a ditch that is slightly sloped away from foundation walls and is downhill. Thereafter, the ditch is lined or filled with gravel or rocks which permit any water to initially pool and then get absorbed and channeled away to the surrounding soils. To know more about French Drains, please read our post published on September 11 – “A basic look at French drains”.

Though one can further simplify the concept, the actual form of construction appears bit complicated. A French drain construction needs to initially consider a properly calculated slope that allows the type of piping material to be used and for proper drainage. You also need to think about the form of fill, like gravel, with the provision of access and with the pipe laying.

Thanks to selective landscaping, the entire system is kept in place. However, it still permits proper distribution of water.

Though the experienced and the do-it-yourself ones would like to tackle French drain installation project, it is better to appoint a professional for such task. In this manner, if there is anything which goes wrong, it could get corrected without unnecessary additional expense or without any worries.

On the other hand, in an under construction stage, majority of new houses now have the installation of French drain, externally running around the foundation walls.

WHERE DOES THE WATER GO

There are various ways by which French drain water can get distributed. For instance, it could get tied to the existing downspout. However, the water flushes back towards the house.

The water can be let out to the street club alternatively. However, this won’t be allowable under certain ordinances and city bylaws. Help from a professional will help to overcome such issues.
With the help of a larger lot, it becomes possible to use a French drain to direct water to the lawn. However, in reality, this simply moves wet region to the different area of the yard. Maintain high care against directing it into your neighbor’s yard.

LAW AND FRENCH DRAINS

While French drain appears to be a nice idea to prevent basement flooding, if you don’t do the initial checking, you may end in hot water or greater trouble. Before you dig, ensure you have the requisite permission. Some bylaws and area city codes prevent the building of drainage systems which affect the property of another neighbor adversely.

French drain construction puts unwanted water into the next-door neighbor’s yard, causing unwanted problems. Before you dig, you are also required to call local utility firms to avoid any pipes, underground cables, etc.

Overall, this project is better left to be completed under the able-guidance of a professional. All in all, hiring a black hole operator for digging and a surveyor for getting the slope right could be the best bet.

HOW CAN BATTERY BACK-UP PUMP OR FRENCH DRAIN GENERATOR BRIDGE GAP DURING POWER OUTAGES

There are many instances where the primary sump pump fails due to power outage or just wear and tear. An emergency backup sump pump is the best and the most intelligent solution to the problems that may arise due to the sudden failure of the primary sump pump.

Depending upon the provision of both water and electrical power in the basement area, one can choose to install either the Battery Backup Sump Pump System or the Water Powered Sump Pump System.  The battery backup sump pump system is powered by DC electricity and relies upon an included battery charger to maintain full battery charge always. It also provides additional capacity. During the power outage, the water level rises to activate the emergency backup sump pump. This is easy to install and sufficient to prevent basement flooding in over 99% of temporary power cuts.

Water powered sump pump systems are the most worry-free backup sump pump technology available in the market today. It requires zero maintenance with just a simple test every 6 months to check the unit functionality. Instead of using electrical power, these pumps rely on the force generated by the flowing city water to suck the water out of the basement sump. These are installed as independent units and can remove nearly 2 gallons of water from the basement for unlimited time as long as there is no interruption from the city water is faced.

Another alternative which is generally not the most practical solution is the installation of the automatic/ gas powered generators to keep the basement dry even during floods.

Check with a professional in your area who can help you take the best and effective measure to keep your basement dry even during the rains.  If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems and if your house is located in any of these regions, call us at 800 771 – 3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html. Schedule your appointment and seek solution to your basement woes, now!

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

There can’t be a cheap and effective measure to ensure longevity of basement walls than proper Air -Sealing in basements. Besides, it also helps conserve energy. Basement air sealing prevents warm heated air from escaping and cold winter air from entering the heated space. By this method minor cracks or openings of the building are sealed using weather stripping, foam, caulk and other materials. According to the American Department of study, basement air sealing lowers space heating consumption by 18 to 30 percent.

HOW AIR INFILTRATES

The external cold air enters the house through various wide and hairline openings and cracks during thewindy or cold weather. Irrespective of the fact that  the basement is old or new, the best recommended strategy is to reduce air leakage to the greatest extent by maintaining  controlled ventilation.

PRIORITIES

Though outside walls, doors and windows are the main source for air leakage,  small cracks and openings hidden from normal view permits air leakage considerably. Many homeowners are unaware that cold air leaks into the house through small openings around the window frames and doors and even through chimneys and fireplaces. External air also enters living space from other unheated portions of the house, such as crawl spaces, basements and attics. Also known as bypasses, these pathways and openings connect the house to the basement, crawlspace or attic. To effectively reduce the air-infiltration, it is important to seal the big cavities, followed by penetrations and large cracks and the smaller seams and gaps.

AREAS THAT NEED TO BE WATCHED FOR AIR LEAKS

Air enters the building through cracks in ceilings, floors or walls, where the two walls meet and where the wall meets the interior door frame or ceiling. The other openings to watch out for include gaps through and around switch boxes and electrical outlets, recessed cabinets and lighting fixtures. One also needs to check the false ceilings such as bathroom soffits, kitchen soffits and pull-down stairs.

 Shower stall units and behind the bath tubs, plumbing connections, various floor cavities of finished attics located adjacent to several unconditioned attic spaces.

Often, these over-looked gaps of the house are more responsive to air leaks than the greater and obvious fissure found around doors and windows. As most leakage paths are driven based on the tendency of warm air to rise, very often, it is the attic that is the best and easiest place to stop the leaks. Before working on the attic insulation, sealing the leaks is highly important as the insulation would hide them, making them less accessible and the receptive points for external air. Air can blow in to the house if the cracks are not sealed prior to insulation thereby not allowing the desired level of energy savings.The dust carried by the external air stains the insulated area thus indicating the presence of cracks in the building.

Below are some openings to look out for:-

 Top openings of wall cavities of interior partitions, situated  in and around chimney

 Around the entry door or attic trap door

 Areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings, in and around the pipes (look behind your toilets and underneath your sinks) and

 Ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall

 The other areas to watch out for leaks are situated in the ductwork, wiring penetrations, plumbing chases through top plates of walls and in-between conditioned and attic space

 Bypasses happen at the framing’s key junctures (like attic-to-knee wall transitions), allowing huge quantities of air to leak in and out of the house. The band joist for door rough openings in the walls, windows, exterior sheathing, and drywall are primary spots for air leakage. The right materials are to be used to seal the leaks permanently.

WHICH MATERIALS TO BE USED

Many materials are available from home improvement stores or local hardware stores to seal the air links. To apply, you can use a combination of various air-sealing materials. Below is the list which offers guidelines and description to utilize the materials.

CAULK

It seals less than ½” gap. Select the grade (high temperature, exterior, interior) based on the area of application and go through the  cleanup and application information instructed by the manufacturer. .

SPRAY FOAM

Helps fill small holes and large cracks. It could be messy if not very careful. Latex-related foams are the best suggested in spray foams. It is advised not to use this near flammable areas of the building.

BACKER ROD

Rope caulk or closed-cell foam. Simply press into gap or crack with putty knife or screwdriver. Very often, the backer rod is used along with door rough openings and cracks around window sill.

 House Wrap: This is usually installed over exterior sheathing. It needs to be sealed with caulk or house wrap tape which forms airtight seals. Though it resists water, it isn’t a vapor barrier.

 Insulation: Several forms of insulation could be utilized to stuff large bypasses or holes only when they are used with various other air sealing materials.

 Sheet goods (rigid foam, drywall and plywood insulation): These materials help to form air barriers. Usually, the air leaks at unsealed penetrations or seams.

 Sheet metal: This is used with high temperature caulk to seal various components such as chimneys and flues.

Polyethylene plastic: These inexpensive materials, when used for air sealing purposes, stop the diffusion of vapor. For effective air barrier, all penetrations and edges need to be completely sealed off. As poly tears easily, it has to be well placed to prevent the warm inside air from penetrating out through the ceilings or walls.

 Storm window Kits: These are available at any hardware or home improvement store. You can easily apply them over leaky windows.

 Weather stripping: You can use them to seal various moveable components, like attic accesses, windows and doors.

 Foil-faced or mastic tape: This seals all duct connections, joints and air handlers. For clean surfaces, always apply foil tape.

Using the above mentioned air-sealing materials, you can treat the below mentioned areas:-

 Upper portions of wall cavities of interior partition wall – Just staple plastic sheets over openings and seal them near edges with high quality caulk material.

 Around chimneys – pack gaps around insulated chimney with unfaced fiber glass insulation or rock wool.

 Avoid sealing hot and bare flue pipes with various combustible products.

 Around the entry door or attic trap door – just weather strip the edges. On the attic side of the door, place rigid foam insulation.

 For areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings – simply staple plastic sheet over openings, sealing them with high quality caulking material around the edges.

 Look around the pipes (behind your toilets and under the sinks) and ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall – tightly packed insulation into gaps. You can also fill the area around it with polyurethane foam.

 On some occasions, the joints between floors and walls permit easy passage of air between the outdoor attic area and the heated part of the house. You can easily search for these joints in the space over porch ceiling or in the attic.

 Generally, these air leakage paths are found in Cape Cod type houses or in those instances when the attic space is transformed into living space. Similar arrangements take place when the second floor of three floored house appear larger than the ground floor, with overhand outdoors.

 A large source of air leakage is the joints located between the side walls and porch roof. If you can reach such areas, you can stop the leaks by covering the openings with plywood.

 If you find the areas difficult to reach, you can reduce the air leakage greatly by injecting foam insulation or high density insulation to the joints, reducing their air pathways.

 And, if the windows leak excessively, consider installation of plastic storm window kit, which is inexpensive and easy to install.

AIR SEALING

Before weather stripping, adjust the door to improve the seal. Also check the catch plate to ensure that the door shuts tightly against weather stripping. In an area where the floor meets the door, see to it that the threshold is adjusted to minimize infiltration. If the threshold isn’t sealed properly or is missing, you can install the weather seal. To improve door seal, simply install the door sweep. Though storm doors are advisable, they won’t be cost effective like storm windows. Duct leaks help reduce the amount of cooled or heated air which gets delivered into living spaces. In several older houses which have forced – air furnace, nearly 20 % of heated air is wasted through leaks, without getting delivered to the living spaces.

As compensation, homeowners simply turn the thermostat up, to receive the heat they require, which unnecessarily raise their heating bills. A highly effective conservation measure would be to seal all the duct leaks. While sealing the ducts, you can ensure that you use proper foil tape or mastic tape. The fabric type duct tape turns out to be highly ineffective as the adhesive dries after six months.

Homeowners can stop leaks from doors and windows either by weather stripping and caulking or by simply installing the plastic storm window kits from home improvement or hardware stores. Sealing of basement air leaks need attention to detail as even small leaks may cause significant loss of heat. Adequately sealed homes offer a comfortable environment, saving energy and unnecessary hassles for homeowners. If you feel that you are spending much on your electric bills in the event of heating your house, think about a professional who can help you identify and fix the concealed gaps and help you save energy.

If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems, call us at 800-771-3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html.

You may also contact Aaron Stull -IAQA expert on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Basement flooring is a highly important aspect for homeowners who wish to utilize their basement to the fullest. Besides, good basement flooring also enhances the overall beauty of the basement space.

Making the right floor choice for the basement is tricky as one has to consider about the probability of moisture looming through the floors. The options that are available in the market for a basement flooring redo are porcelain tiles, ceramics, laminate and hardwood floor. In this article we will share our thoughts to help you take an informed decision.

Selecting appropriate basement flooring becomes difficult especially if the basement problem appears complicated. For all basements, the biggest issue is unwanted moisture. Seeping below concrete, moisture weakens the adhesive bond used for tiles or floors to make the hardwood floors warp and buckle and also make the carpets get an elusive and stinky smell due to mold growth.

Another reason why it is a daunting task to select basement flooring is the humid environment of basement rooms and their high susceptibility to flooding from outdoor seepage and leakage pipes. Most options related to basement flooring include some sort of trade-off. The best way to start, however, is by knowing the options. Assuming that your basement is dry (either after having the moisture issues treated or naturally), you can start considering flooring based options. Below are some of the choices:-

 Wood – One of the least viable of all the choices, wood flooring tends to rot, warp and buckle under highly moist conditions observed in most basements.

 Carpet – Though carpet is inexpensive, it is more prone to mildew and mold issues – especially if flooding or leaks are a problem. However, padding carpet with anti-microbial lining may mitigate some issues related to moisture.

 Tile - Tile is water resistant and decorative option, which could get directly installed to the concrete floor in good condition and is consistently dry. In other instances, a water resistant sub-floor will be advisable.

 Laminates – Laminate based flooring would give the elegant look of wood with high moisture resistance. Since laminates are floating floors, they never get directly attached to the sub-floor. However, if you face any problems related to the lamination flooring , the repairs could be cumbersome.

 Concrete – If you have a concrete floor ready, you can take the full advantage as concrete doesn’t get stained or painted. A polished concrete floor gives the plush look. Properly constructed concrete basement does not crack or leak water.

BASEMENT MOISTURE

Having discussed all the possible basement floor options to combat moisture related problems one would agree that wood floors can never be the ideal choice. Mold growth cases related to moisture is more common to wood floors. The risk will persist even if extra care to seal the wood floor with carpet or using a hardwood to the basement is decided on.  It is best to avoid wood flooring for basements with excessive moisture related problems.

However, if you are insistent about wood floors then you may consider engineered floor as an option. Engineered floors are the outcome of using three to five layers of different hardwood materials with a high density fiberboard core. This flooring is known to have a higher resiliency to humidity.

A decision on finishing the basement floor can be taken based on the utility of the room, personal taste and the budget on hand.

ADVANTAGES OF A SUB-FLOOR

The most comfortable options for flooring include sub-floor installations. . A sub-floor keeps the vinyl, linoleum, tile or whichever flooring you select away from any direct contact with cold concrete. Adequate insulation provided by the sub-floor makes the walking surface warm and comfortable. It would also dry up the finished floor and, in the event of any plumbing leak; the sub-floor would permit the finished floor to dry. Any sort of flooring could be installed on the sub-floor – wood, bamboo, tile, linoleum, carpet, etc.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEM USAGE FOR FLOORING BASEMENTS

Basement floors are generally known for cold and damp attributes that are unbearable to the bare foot. Radiant heating systems are installed to distribute consistent warm temperature that is absorbed by the basement surrounding. When compared to a forced air systems, this technology guarantees a cleaner room without stirring up dust or allergens. According to studies conducted in houses with radiant heating, dust mite occurrence has decreased by 80%.  With this technology becoming popular more choices in terms of energy efficiency, environmental considerations and simplicity are available to the purchaser.

If you have any basement moisture based problem, it is better to resolve the issue, before installing any type of floor treatment, including carpet. To resolve moisture based problems, work with a licensed contractor.

If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems, call us at 800-771-3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html.

You may also contact Aaron Stull -IAQA expert on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”