Basements are usually recommended in areas that have steep slopes and experience extreme cold climatic conditions with low temperature and deep frost penetration. Deeper excavation comes in a package along with the construction and structure of basements, which of course increases costs, but results in a reliable, cozy and comfortable space.

One of the primary foundations in the United States are basements, but they are also accompanied by a number of common issues related to extreme temperatures like the cold winters, heat and humidity, water intrusion mold and an unhealthy environment. Research has shown that 25% of energy costs come from the heat loss of basements. Therefore, a properly sealed and insulated basement with protection from moisture is an additional necessity in reducing energy costs.

There are three basic methods that are used in basement insulation, namely, interior insulation, exterior insulation and insulated concrete forms. However, before sealing up and insulating the basement, one has to initially inspect the basement for any cracks or leaks that can be possible entries for moisture. These cracks and leaks should be repaired and sealed in order to allow the basement to dry completely, especially for insulation of basement walls.

1.  Interior Insulation: This is considered to be one of the simplest and cost-effective means of basement insulation. The installation is usually done behind interior framing or by furring strips placed against the foundation wall with a range of insulation materials. Special care has to be taken to ensure that the wall is completely sealed and dry from moisture which is likely to enter during the cold winters. For this reason, it is always suggested to use a non-absorbent material for the inner layer of the insulation. The disadvantage of interior insulation is that it reduces the usable interior space and is not as effective as exterior insulation in moisture protection.

2.  Exterior Insulation: Exterior insulation is equally important in protecting the basement from any additional moisture and cold weather. The exterior of the walls is insulated to reduce heat loss and condensation, and protect the interior of the basement from any unnecessary damage. Materials like extruded polystyrene are durable and moisture resistant for exterior insulation. This method of insulation can turn to be a little expensive with the type of material used, especially for an existing building. It is therefore advised to have a perimeter drainage system in place.

3. Insulated Concrete Forms: These products are comparatively new and can be installed easily. Hollow foam blocks are stacked together and then filled with concrete. They serve the purpose of both interior and exterior insulation, and are used as surfaces for attaching drywall, brick ties and other finish materials. Some of them are even treated with termite-resistant chemicals.

Is temperature maintenance in your basement only limited to extreme cold weather conditions? Well, the answer is no. As mentioned earlier, basements also face problems in humid conditions which are favorable for the growth of molds, microbes, dust mites and other organisms. These micro-organisms play a vital role in deteriorating health conditions.

Basement dehumidifiers are the best solution to reducing the humidity in the basement to normal recommended levels, which is between 40-60%. They are of two types, the portable unit and the installed unit. The portable unit is user-friendly, whereas the installed unit requires a qualified professional for installation. The latter are usually installed with a fan, heating pump and cooling coil. The moisture in the air is drawn by the fan over the heat pump. This water vapor is then condensed into water through the cooling coil and collected into a holding tank and can be removed either manually or through a drain hose installed in the unit. The installed basement dehumidifier is more efficient as compared to the portable one, which also explains why it is more expensive.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1.http://www.superhvac.com/learn/insulation-basement?pk=ce64e590be3cb34c230d426caff7315d&t=k9sel9a6bfd4%2434145jr2e3kd3b18b62f193e2852c3a75efa
2.http://www.plasticsportalasia.net/wa/plasticsAP~en_GB/function/conversions:/publish/common/upload/foams/styrodur_technical_literature/Styrodur_cellar_insulation.pdf
3.http://www.basement-insulation.org/
4.http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/basement%20Insulation%20Technology%20fact.pdf
5.http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/AE_basement_insulation.html
6.http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf
7.http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html

Basement remodeling proves to be an excellent investment, provided they are permanent solutions to flooding. Wet basements can hardly attract prospective home buyers’. Basement remodeling creates or adds to the living and storage space to one’s home by nearly 33% to 50%.  The 2005 cost vs. value report of the remodeling magazine has indicated that a home owner can recoup 90.1% of the basement renovating expenses at the time of resale. Basement waterproofing is the permanent solution to basement mold that ruins the health of the family.  And this is why waterproofing ranks the highest in terms of basement improvement. Hence, fixing them becomes more of an investment than an expense and its priority increases among all the home remodeling options available to a home-owner. In such situations, it’s safe to emphasize that basement waterproofing offers one of the highest long term investment returns.

RESALE VALUE OF A HOME vs. BASEMENT

A recently published report shows nearly 92 % of prospective home buyers avoid purchasing a home with wet basement. These studies have been supported by historical data maintained over the years.

Water leakage is one of the main basement problems depreciating a home’s resale value by 25 %. Most realtors disapprove selling a property with flooded basement and counsel their clients to fix basement leaks, before putting up their house for sale.

Thus solving basement flooding and other woes become the top priority for home owners. The first thing to check is the sump pump, ensuring the water drains first before reaching the basement floor. Any sump pump failure repair might cost more to the home owner than what it might take to replace the entire sump pump.

ADVANTAGES OF A BASEMENT

While it may come as a surprise, basement gives substantial usable space to a home. It can be used as a home theatre, a home office, a basement studio, a bedroom, a playroom and as an office. It not only adds 30 % floor space to a home, but also appreciates the value of a home by 30 to 50 percent.

Basement is a lucrative solution to get a significant floor area enhancement with a marginal increase in the overall building cost. Heat loss through walls and basement floors are less than those at upper floor and ground levels. A housing expert research concludes that homes with well maintained basements experience 10 % rise in energy efficiency.

Most self builders have recognized the extra storage space and flexible livings provided by basements and have even utilized them as swimming pools, gymnasiums, utility rooms, guest bedroom suites and home offices. This has given birth to a greater demand for houses with basement.

A waterproofed basement not only offers extra space for living, it also meets the need for better sustainability. A well-maintained basement guarantees peace of mind to homeowners year after year, withstanding heavy snowfall and torrential rainfall successfully.  Basement repairs ensure health by implementing indoor air quality control and eliminating the chances for breeding of harmful bacteria. Thus a remodeled basement is sure to make your home the most sought-after investment in today’s competitive real estate market.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source:

http://www.basementwaterproofingtips.com/Interior_Basement_Waterproofing.html

http://www.b-dry.com/wet-basement-leak.html

http://www.decoproducts.com/

http://www.finishedbasementideas.com/basement/cost_finishing_basement.html

Paying a little extra for quality is not a bad decision. However there is an exception to every rule. In this article we are trying to share our thoughts on why ‘Quality’ should be the prime condition while choosing a service or product.

In a normal scenario, ‘Price’ is one of the several factors that shape a customer’s purchase decision. Every one of us wants to buy products/services at the best possible price but at the same time would not want to compromise on quality. Even if it means to pay a little extra from our pocket for a durable item or effectual service.

Various research on customer buying habits has been conducted and the studies reveal that   buying habits are grouped in two classes:-

Price First – When a buyer is almost exclusively concerned with price and considers the purchase as the best deal when he pays the least.

Quality First – The purchaser gives value to the quality of the product and does not hesitate to spend extra to own the product. In short the quality of the product gets a greater importance than its price.

While it is good to be frugal in purchases, it is advised not to compromise on quality. A product or service that is charged less does not mean that they cannot offer value. But not all products and services can come at a considerably low cost. Price is certainly the determining factor for the value of services and goods.

For those who believe buying cheap is penny-wise, read on.

How quality saves money and time

Time is money. And purchases made from the perspective of quality first saves you in many ways. Below are some of them:-

* Decreased frustration and increased efficiency due to superior performance
* Reduction in frequency of replacement of items
* Decreased bothering with things such as purchase returns due to poor manufacturing
* Less money and time on repairs
* As high quality items are accompanied with better warranties, you spend less energy and time worrying

The main reason why most customers stick to low-priced purchases is that they fail to involve cost of time as a parameter. Although for every such purchase customers are found to spend their valuable time on repairs and the strain aroused due to frustration of the bad quality of the service/products. They fail to understand how much they gain by spending an additional US$ 200 during their initial purchase decision.

Plan your purchases by maintaining balance

Ultimately, quality and price considerations make purchasing a balancing act for customers. Despite the truth shared above, you cannot simply assume that an item/service of high cost will render  higher quality. There are limitations on how much you should pay in terms of quality.

Remember – the next time you go out to buy, don’t just be concerned about the price. Define your needs, do your homework in terms of finding the economical bid for the service/product you are planning to purchase, stick to your plan, trust your research results and settle with a quality item at a reasonable rate.

Price Vs Quality – The ultimate balancing act

Product manufacturing firms constantly strive to achieve two seemingly conflicting goals – assure their products are of high quality while maintaining low costs. Though resolving these two conflicting issues is futile, structured approach towards both can help.

Typically, price versus quality conundrum is approached in many ways. Common options involve:-

* Changing the design to accommodate lower-priced products of same quality
* Extensively research prices of branded products from various suppliers
* Substitute lower-cost brand based equivalent after design sign-off
* Substitute non-branded and its lower-cost equivalent again after finalizing the initial design

These approaches help develop a high-quality and cost-effective product. Nevertheless, one must carefully consider which approach will be best suited for the given h circumstance, as every approach has its own limitations and strengths.

Design changing

Certain elements of design are changed to meet the price point for the finished product. For instance, an engineer might replace a high density connector with a bigger (lower-density) one. Following design sign-off, such changes are difficult. They also impact the functionality of the product, affect marketing time and are time consuming, making the option inappropriate.

Researching prices extensively

Every time a product is purchased, engineers can try to find the chosen item at a low rate. Maximum consistency is reached in having the same branded product. Unfortunately, finding a lower price could be time-consuming. While large firms do have purchasing departments to conduct this research, many aren’t big enough to make extensive price related comparisons.

For a lower cost, the value of searching depends on the quantities involved. As large price based differences are rare, hence, if the production run appears small, the savings aren’t worth the trouble and time.

However, small savings can definitely impact the company’s bottom line. Some branded products are less expensive, as the supplier, unknowingly or knowingly, has purchased fake or counterfeit products. Often, counterfeit products have issues with respect to consistency and quality, which make them sub-standard compared to non-branded, generic and branded products. Unfortunately, ferreting out and identifying counterfeits has become highly difficult, which is another vital consideration.

Replacement of Brand Name

Alternatively, engineers might try to exchange an originally specified component with its equivalent brand. Somewhat, this would reduce the costs, but searching and qualifying replacement product could be time consuming. Development schedule could also be affected, adversely impacting the time-to-market, outweighing the overall savings by the cost of alternative brand qualifying.

Any substitution may carry an inherent risk of consistency and quality. However, that risk may be dramatically mitigated based on suppliers.

Non-Branded Replacement

Engineers may finally exchange branded connectors with significantly less expensive and unbranded one.

Of course, a non-brand products would carry inherent quality-based risk. Nevertheless, it could be dramatically mitigated by a careful selection of the supplier.  When purchases are made from reliable supplier, there’s a greater advantage of using non-branded products.

While brand name owners rightfully consider non-branded products as risky, one must not forget that they are also protecting their own interests. In most cases well-developed brands command higher prices, thereby generating huge profits for owners. Thanks to volume, brand names have multiple distribution layers, which cause the prices to rise even further.

Due to this reason, rightly selected non-brand names is sure to offer the highest savings.  For instance, buyers may save a substantial amount, nearly 20 to 30 percent and even more on non-branded products than the branded ones.

Not to forget that the success of this work approach depends on the engineer’s  ability to identify suppliers who are reputed for meeting both , cost and quality requirements.

Below we would like to share our thoughts about choosing an appropriate supplier:–

* Be experienced at buying directly from manufacturers
* Undergo long term relationship with suppliers who offer at low-cost
* Pay a visit to potential suppliers to better assess their adherence to quality
* Test whether the product adheres to specifications and quality
* Have a substantial purchasing power and
* Start guaranteeing its products

A typical engineer may use all such approaches at one instance or the other. An important thing is that the engineer carefully evaluates the alternative approaches, maintaining cost-competitiveness and product quality, consequently enhancing to her or his bottom line. Though it won’t be that simple, in the present global scenario, balancing quality and cost is an important component to a firm’s profitability and health.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Basement flooring is a highly important aspect for homeowners who wish to utilize their basement to the fullest. Besides, good basement flooring also enhances the overall beauty of the basement space.

Making the right floor choice for the basement is tricky as one has to consider about the probability of moisture looming through the floors. The options that are available in the market for a basement flooring redo are porcelain tiles, ceramics, laminate and hardwood floor. In this article we will share our thoughts to help you take an informed decision.

Selecting appropriate basement flooring becomes difficult especially if the basement problem appears complicated. For all basements, the biggest issue is unwanted moisture. Seeping below concrete, moisture weakens the adhesive bond used for tiles or floors to make the hardwood floors warp and buckle and also make the carpets get an elusive and stinky smell due to mold growth.

Another reason why it is a daunting task to select basement flooring is the humid environment of basement rooms and their high susceptibility to flooding from outdoor seepage and leakage pipes. Most options related to basement flooring include some sort of trade-off. The best way to start, however, is by knowing the options. Assuming that your basement is dry (either after having the moisture issues treated or naturally), you can start considering flooring based options. Below are some of the choices:-

 Wood – One of the least viable of all the choices, wood flooring tends to rot, warp and buckle under highly moist conditions observed in most basements.

 Carpet – Though carpet is inexpensive, it is more prone to mildew and mold issues – especially if flooding or leaks are a problem. However, padding carpet with anti-microbial lining may mitigate some issues related to moisture.

 Tile - Tile is water resistant and decorative option, which could get directly installed to the concrete floor in good condition and is consistently dry. In other instances, a water resistant sub-floor will be advisable.

 Laminates – Laminate based flooring would give the elegant look of wood with high moisture resistance. Since laminates are floating floors, they never get directly attached to the sub-floor. However, if you face any problems related to the lamination flooring , the repairs could be cumbersome.

 Concrete – If you have a concrete floor ready, you can take the full advantage as concrete doesn’t get stained or painted. A polished concrete floor gives the plush look. Properly constructed concrete basement does not crack or leak water.

BASEMENT MOISTURE

Having discussed all the possible basement floor options to combat moisture related problems one would agree that wood floors can never be the ideal choice. Mold growth cases related to moisture is more common to wood floors. The risk will persist even if extra care to seal the wood floor with carpet or using a hardwood to the basement is decided on.  It is best to avoid wood flooring for basements with excessive moisture related problems.

However, if you are insistent about wood floors then you may consider engineered floor as an option. Engineered floors are the outcome of using three to five layers of different hardwood materials with a high density fiberboard core. This flooring is known to have a higher resiliency to humidity.

A decision on finishing the basement floor can be taken based on the utility of the room, personal taste and the budget on hand.

ADVANTAGES OF A SUB-FLOOR

The most comfortable options for flooring include sub-floor installations. . A sub-floor keeps the vinyl, linoleum, tile or whichever flooring you select away from any direct contact with cold concrete. Adequate insulation provided by the sub-floor makes the walking surface warm and comfortable. It would also dry up the finished floor and, in the event of any plumbing leak; the sub-floor would permit the finished floor to dry. Any sort of flooring could be installed on the sub-floor – wood, bamboo, tile, linoleum, carpet, etc.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEM USAGE FOR FLOORING BASEMENTS

Basement floors are generally known for cold and damp attributes that are unbearable to the bare foot. Radiant heating systems are installed to distribute consistent warm temperature that is absorbed by the basement surrounding. When compared to a forced air systems, this technology guarantees a cleaner room without stirring up dust or allergens. According to studies conducted in houses with radiant heating, dust mite occurrence has decreased by 80%.  With this technology becoming popular more choices in terms of energy efficiency, environmental considerations and simplicity are available to the purchaser.

If you have any basement moisture based problem, it is better to resolve the issue, before installing any type of floor treatment, including carpet. To resolve moisture based problems, work with a licensed contractor.

If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems, call us at 800-771-3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html.

You may also contact Aaron Stull -IAQA expert on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Basement remodeling offers many benefits, including increase in storage and living space. Most basements act as cozy room for entertainment, home office, dining purposes and business set-up but generally they are used to store junk. Before remodeling the basement, it is important to consider all functions, that the new basement is to serve. A good examination of the basement will help to make the best use of it.

Sensible utilization of the basement pays off finally. Below are the steps to assist you with basement building and designing:-

 Basement Waterproofing: – Basements generally face the problems with flooding and dampness that  cellar depreciates home value by 25 %. It is important to fully solve the problem before embarking on any remodeling. Permanent solutions take time to implement and so it is best suggested to seek the advice of expert waterproofing agents. Waterproofing concrete sealers are generally suggested as a  remedy to overcome the basement problems.

Waterproofing sealers are two-way application processes and are simply sprayed into concrete with low-pressure pump sprayer and thereafter cleaned with tap water. When compared to a plain waterproof concrete, waterproofing sealers do a lot more. They solve health problems that are likely associated with wet or damp basements. Basement moisture acts as a breeding ground for mildew and mold spores, not to mention about the damp odor. Waterproofing sealers are known to  reduce the health risks usually associated with cancer causing radon.

Unlike the fan systems that first permit air in and then vent them outside, it stops radon before entering the house. Whatever be the purpose of the basement – usable living space or just a storage space, concrete sealer makes the basement odor free, pleasant and hygienic for use.

Basement Finishing Techniques - Basement finishing is a complicated process and calls for the recommendations of a professionally-trained contractor.  There has been a great advancement in the basement finishing techniques that offers distinct advantage over the drywall construction and wood used earlier. Framing techniques, plumbing, lighting, door installation and other basement finishing techniques are employed to convert the basement to a better space of the building.

Drying and Warming: Utilization of the basement space is best when they are dry and warm. To make the basement more comfortable, consider the installation of a second heat source like fireplace, floor warming system or a wood burning system. Water resistant floor coverings like vinyl, tiles, area rugs etc can be considered as a profitable investment to minimize any potential water damage to the basement.

Walls: While renovating your basement to an utility area consider the walls, as they enhance the beauty of the area.  If wood is considered for the walls then ensure that it is CCA treated that is Kiln dried to prevent moisture leeching through the concrete floor. If possible eliminate as many posts and columns to make the basement appear spacious.

Nail the top plate to above joists. Plumb the walls before nailing. Before standing the wall, run a bead of construction adhesive on bottom. Then, drive nails to concrete using powder actuated set of nails. Do these to every stud space, closing to each door stud. Also consider relocating air ducts along walls and beams to improve the appearance of the area. Radon seal on the concrete will help against water seepage and water vapor.

Furnishings: Use drapes and plush carpets sparingly to overcome the problems faced with  chronic basement outflow. Consider storing books, linens and clothes in the basement after the moisture assessment of the basement. Area rugs are ideal for floors as they could be easily removed, dried and cleaned. If you prefer wall-to-wall carpeting, consider low pile indoor/outdoor or commercial type. Rustic furnishings are best suggested for basement decoration, so use faux paintings to get the look.

FLOOR COVERING

 Carpet Pad – If you wish to install carpets on basement floor, spend a bit on thickest carpet pad that you would get. This helps to smoothen out concrete irregularities, especially jack posts and walls.

 Laminate Floor Padding – While replacing carpet with laminate flooring, don’t use carpet pad for new floors. It is too soft and too thick to work correctly and leaves the new floor mushy. Consider a subfloor prior to finished floor to reduce the echoing sound effect, to prevent moisture damage from the concrete floor and to get that extra warmth.

 Electric Floor Heating – It acts as the only source of heat and a good solution for cold basements. While combining this with air-heating system, simply warm your floor for few hours each day to add warmth to your basement.

TECHNIQUES FOR BASEMENT LIGHTING

Whether it is artificial or natural, adding light could make substantial difference to the overall feel of your basement. Since basements tend to be gloomy and dark, your first step must be to add light. If a portion of basement is located above ground, have as much windows possible to allow maximum possible natural light. For basements located below the ground, ‘Can lights’ can be used.

USE ARTIFICIAL LIGHT CREATIVELY

As basement ceilings are usually low, you may feel as if you are in a cave. Hence, use indirect lighting to splash large light pools on ceiling. This causes the space to open up, permitting rooms to look higher.

A mix of traditional recessed lighting and up-lighting offers you the flexibility to create variety of lighting moods. When natural light won’t be an option for you, depend on artificial light to create a warm atmosphere. Floor and table lamps also work well. Ceiling lightings are also used. Mirrors can be skillfully placed to reflect light and make the basement brighter and merrier.

Occupancy Sensors

When you use occupancy sensors, you add hands-free convenience and energy efficiency. If you descend basement stairs with your hands full, the sensors turn the lights on automatically, keeping them in an on mode while walking around the room and turning them off as soon as you leave.

Recessed Lighting

For basic general lighting where you have room in ceiling, use recessed lights as they provide a brighter look and brilliant white light.

Directional Lights and Surface Mounted Spotlights

These are the perfect choice for lighting effects, where you wouldn’t like to install recessed lights or track lights. To highlight architectural elements and pictures, use directional lights and surface-mounted spotlights. They also offer task lighting in home offices, bathrooms and kitchens.

Track Lights
Many incandescent track lights offer brilliant white light, and in most basements, provide more finished look to the space. Basements were formerly used as a space to store and keep boiler and water tank.

Finished basements are highly desirable in the current US real estate market. Artistically finished basements are preferred by one and all. As a fact, most real estate salespeople involve basement area to calculate the total square footage of home.

Most homeowners use their finished basement mainly as office space to conduct their daily business in quiet environment, fully separate from busy life. Others use their basement as an additional bedroom for guests, friends or kids.

Basements are commonly used as play rooms or family rooms. In fact, few homeowners rent their basement to self-contained units.This way, the rent not just covers renovation cost, but also helps in mortgage payments, serving as additional income. Finished basement not only introduces appeal to home, but also enhances its value potentially.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

ABOUT

French drain, also known as ‘drain tiles’ or ‘land tiles’, are trenches filled with gravel, sand or rocks. Their main function lies in diverting water away from a particular location. They protect buildings and homes from permanent damage caused by water infiltrating through building foundations.

The main purpose of  French drain is water distribution, for instance, water running out of standard sewage treatment systems. Additionally, internal French drains are commonly used behind retaining walls (building structure that keeps rock and dirt away) to ease the pressure caused by large volumes of water.

HISTORY

The French drains, in its initial stages, were simple and basic trenches placed from high to low elevation and filled with gravel and rocks. It was Henry French from Massachusetts who created the tiles that modern French drains consist of.

Newer varieties of French drains have perforations while other variants include filter drains, collector drains, fin drains and dispersal drains.

TYPES OF INTERNAL FRENCH DRAINS (BASED ON INSTALLATION)

French drains are installed around building foundations in two ways. The first is by burying tiles against the foundation walls on the exterior. The second is by installing drain tiles on the interior side of the basement below the basement floor.

HOW TO INSTALL A FRENCH DRAIN

1. Digging a Trench: French drain is constructed by digging a trench of varying width and depth. A depth of 8 to 12 inches and a width 5 to 6 inches are the most common size that satisfies most drainage requirements.

2. Ensuring a nice slope: Grading and survey issues are the critical elements for water to actually flow in the right direction. Check extremely short drainage stretches to ensure there exists a slope of at least 0.5 percent and a grade of 1 or 2 percent.

3. Fill it With Gravel: Now add gravel to the trench leaving some inches off its surface. The gravel need to measure roughly between 0.5 and 1 inch.

4. Covering with coarse sand: Now fill the top layer with 3 to 4 inches of coarse sand. This permits the growth of turf so that the underlying trench is camouflaged. Remember – the sand must be coarse. Otherwise, proper water drainage won’t occur.

5. Turfing the trench: You can either turf through seeding or simply permit them to grow from adjacent sands, especially if it is of a spreading variety. You may even lay grass over sand. For this, ensure the soil is removed from grass roots, so that the sand doesn’t get contaminated with finer soils

6. For internal drain systems the sloped pipe will run to a drain or dewatering pump which will transport the water to a desired location. Moreover, the top of the drain would be covered by a vapor barrier and then concrete to be flush with the existing floor. (We will discuss interior french drains in greater detail in the future)

FRENCH DRAIN ANATOMY

Originally, the French drain was just a trench filled with round-shaped river rock. The principle idea behind it was that the trench would provide the nearby surface water a place to sit while it slowly dissipated to the soil below. Considering the amount of rainfall received each year in the United States, just giving the water a place to sit isn’t enough. Rather, give a viable outlet to the water. This is the main reason why most drainage firms use drainage pipes for internal French drains.

An French drain is typically covered with geotextile socks that keep it free from debris and silt. Additionally, its drain pipe can be connected to green space, sump well or other such outlets.If the French drain is placed beneath the lawn, the drain can get encapsulated in the landscape fabric replacing grass and soil on the top. If placed outside the lawn, a river bed of 6 to 8 inch width on the top may get created which is both functional and decorative. In this system, the surface water goes straight through river dock to the pipe below getting carried to the water outlet.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

What is Humidex?

Humidex is an appliance that uses target-specific and controlled ventilation as opposed to the usual dehumidifier which removes particles of moisture from air using condensation and re-circulates the stale air back into the room.

Basically, humidex concetrates  on moisture related woes at the lowest part of the house, namely crawl space and basement, where condensation, stagnation and most moisture infiltration problems usually occur.

Humidex expels the damp, cool air away from the house using fresher and warmer air upstairs to lower relative humidity and dry the structure. This facilitates the exchange of air within the house, reducing moisture based woes such as mildew, mold growth and excessive humidity that cause allergies and asthma to the residents of the home.

How does Humidex work?

In most homes, the air contains dangerous pollutants that are invisible, odorless and difficult to detect. Hence, they are likely to cause health related problems such as headaches, irritated nose, eyes, respiratory diseases, infections, tiredness and dizziness.

Exchange of fresh air is practically not possible with doors and windows shut, thus having the dangerous elements trapped within the house. These elements are further aggravated by moisture which traps and contains such contaminants, becoming a source of nutrition for dust mites, other infestations and molds triggering allergic and asthma symptoms.

Humidex offers continuous improved indoor air quality and moisture control without complicated maintenance, ensuring an healthy environment.While exchanging damp and polluted air for fresh and natural air,the home environment automatically becomes healthier,drier and safer place to live.

 During winters: During winters, water condenses on walls and windows as moisture laden air in the house hits cold surface. When the humidex is operational, moist air flows downwards and dries up.Thereafter, the unit increases the temperature downstairs, absorbing saturated moisture prevalent in the atmosphere. Compared to heavy moist air, drier air heats up faster enabling a huge savings in your utility bills. Additionally, as the cold air is always located at the floor level, the heat loss becomes minimal.The unit generally functions at a slower speed during winters mainly because the heat evaporates the interior moisture.

 During summer: When there isn’t any air conditioning at the upper levels during summer, the warmer air flows downwards increasing temperature, lowering humidity and raising the dew point (causing less condensation). The moment there is air conditioning upstairs, the natural dehumidification process of conditioned air decreases, lowering relative humidity. Thus, the lower part remains warmer,drier and without odor.

Humidex Vs Dehumidifier

 A humidex utilizes just 40 watts of electricity – the same as a light bulb. Compared to a dehumidifier, the payback is less than two years, just from energy savings.

 Though dehumidifiers have been primarily utilized by consumers to decrease moisture levels, humidex beats them at all levels. Not only is humidex 90 % less expensive, but homeowners get the added benefit of continuous exchange of air, enhancement of air quality and reduction of health-risks related to mold and moisture.

 Compared to an average of $ 40 to $ 70 for a dehumidifier, the average monthly cost for a humidex is just $ 2 per month in electricity. Some high capacity dehumidifiers cost nearly $ 100 or more each month.

 While a single humidex offers moisture control for upper levels, crawl space and the entire basement, dehumidifiers offer moisture control only for a specified location and at the same time require extra units to achieve the same level of moisture reduction.

 Dehumidifers don’t offer the circulation needed to dry the structure. They don’t create airflows over large surfaces leaving large areas with moist and stagnant air. For just one dehumidifier, Humidex saves $ 400 per year. To add to that, it comes with a ten year warranty – the total savings amounting to nearly $ 4000.

Benefits of Humidex:

Humidex offers year round cost-effective, maintenance free and safe moisture control to homeowners. It checks indoor environment 24×7 for continuous humidity control – even when the homeowner isn’t at home for a long period. It safely expels pollutants, toxins and moisture outdoors.Financially smart and health conscious homeowners who select humidex improve their living conditions dramatically even while maintaining their property’s value and structural integrity.

Below are some benefits of Humidex:-

 Simple and Maintenance-free operation: Set the humidistat to desired humidity level so that the humidex automatically vents humid air outside. No cleaning filters and no heavy buckets of water to empty.

 Works while you are away: Humidex doesn’t have any hot motors to worry about or complicated controls to maintain and hence, homeowners can rely on humidex to monitor and manage the indoor air quality when they are away.

 Huge Capacity: A single humidex does the work of moisture control and circulation for an entire basement and hence, there isn’t any requirement for multiple units. The maximum area ventilated by a humidex ranges around 1800 to 1300 square feet.

 Aesthetically Pleasing: Humidex is housed in a discreet, compact, neutral colored and wall mounted cabinet that blends nicely into any home décor.

 Superior Air Quality: Humidex not only reduces inner moisture, but also eliminates damp polluted air and basement odors, replacing stale air with clean and fresh air.

 Security and Protection:  Lower moisture levels decrease wood rot and condensation in sills and window frames keeping them clear and dry. They also dry out concrete, wood and saturated sheet rocks.

 Energy Efficiency: Humidex runs only on 40 watts (which comes to around $ 2 each month). And as the drier air requires less energy to cool in summer and heat in winter, it causes lower energy bills throughout the year.

 Eco-Friendly: Humidex doesn’t contain any ozone or CFC’s. It doesn’t have any contaminated filters to replace or wash and its fan operates quietly (40db).

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

: Helpful Advice If You Encounter a Bowing Foundation Wall

By Aaron J. Stull
Owner/President – Keystone Basement Systems, Inc.
AStull@keystonebasementsystems.com

Wall anchor and steel I-Beam reinforcement methods have a multitude of specialized applications.  Furthermore, other viable foundation reinforcement methods exist and are used commercially every day.  For the purpose of this article I am only going to focus on steel I-Beam reinforcement and wall anchoring in situations where inward bowing of an exterior foundation wall has been observed.  This type of movement represents the bulk of residential problems encountered by foundation repair companies.  For the purpose of this article I will use generalities and note that specific circumstances may call for a specific repair plan.  Moreover, I will assume that the readers of this article are somewhat familiar with what both reinforcement methods are.

In my experience with residential foundation repair I can agree to one definitive fact.  Fact is that no one method works for all situations.  Furthermore, it is my strong belief that all viable methods should be considered when designing a foundation repair plan.  Because every home has different conditions and situations, utilizing this methodology will ensure that the most cost-effective and successful method will be proposed to the property owner.

I order to determine a method of correction, we should first consider the following variables -

1. Foundation Type
2. Fill Height
3. Fill Type
4. Wall Height/Length
5. Wall Width
6. Nature of Wall Deflection
7. Anomalies

Foundation Type:

Western Pennsylvania, where my business is located, is home to a diverse collection of foundation types.  The foundation types that are usually seen are of poured concrete, stone, block (Cement or Cinder), Terra Cotta, brick or a combination of each.  In addition to the type, it would be good practice to observe the general condition of the foundation.  Examining these facts will begin to shed light on some situations.  For example, if you were to encounter a terra cotta foundation that was in very poor condition with a measurable inward deflection of 6 inches, it would be wise to forget either wall anchors or I-Beams as the wall should be rebuilt.

Fill Height:

Fill height, in respect to wall height and all other variables, is important to note as it is usually the main force acting laterally on the foundation wall.  Typically the higher the fill height the greater the lateral surcharge the soil will place on the wall.

Fill Type:

Fill type should be looked at to understand the amount of pressure per cubic foot of earth on the wall.  Because different material has different weight, particle size, shape and other important aspects, it is wise to understand how each acts on a foundation.  Moreover, the rate in which water moves through a material is important as water can add additional hydrostatic pressure if it cannot pass quickly through the soil that rests against the foundation.

Wall Height and Length:

Wall height is imperative to review.  Generally, the taller a wall, lesser is its ability to resist lateral loads.  Structural damage is merely the result of a wall that is built too high without adequate internal reinforcement or wall width.

Wall length is important to note in determining the reinforcement plan for a home as well.  In some cases you will find that a wall span is too long and without buttresses which has allowed the wall to bow and crack.  This would be considered in many cases to be a design flaw.

Wall Width:

The width of a wall is also important as the wider the wall the greater the ability to resist lateral loads.  Many contractors use blocks that are 8” wide in situations that call for 10” or 12” walls.  Also, a plan may call for a wall width of a certain size and additional internal reinforcement in the form of rebar and concrete.  If this is not done the wall may acquiesce to pressure.

Nature of Wall Deflection:

In my opinion this is the most important variable to consider.  Not all wall deflections are the same.  Although there are many variations, three main types exist.  Some slip at the top usually due to poor top attachment and lateral pressure.  Some slip between the first and second coarse (In Block Foundations) inward.  This is usually from a greater lateral load in respect to the amount of compressive weight from the structure above.  The third is the wall that bows in the middle from increased pressure.  Each must be treated differently as they are all representations of pressure being translated differently based on the overall structure and configuration of the home.  Walls slipping at the top generally need a reinforcement method that incorporates a new top attachment for the home.  Walls “slipping” at the base can be reinforced with a method that integrates internally into the floor and buttresses the wall (Please note that a wall that has slipped more than 25% inward in respect to the wall width should be rebuilt).  Walls that bow in the middle are usually the easiest to correct with reinforcement methods.

The method I use for most reinforcement projects, when the inward movement of the foundation wall is more than two inches off perpendicular, is Steel I-Beam buttressing.  I simply do not prefer wall anchoring in most situations, as I have seen multiple cases where walls continues to move in around the inner reinforcement plate (standard inner plate measuring 12” x 18”). Furthermore, I am a firm believer in simplicity for design.  Wall anchors are predicated on several things being “normal” such as soil type and composition around the home, obstructions or rocks not being present or the distance from fill material that was disturbed while building the home to virgin soil that was not disturbed.  At one time I used wall anchors extensively until I had some issues with the quality of their performance.  Moreover, some cases require the homeowner to periodically tighten down the inner anchor bolt which can sometimes be done incorrectly or not done at all.

The wall anchoring process involves a lot of steps to achieve success.  Thus, I use them very sparingly.  I understand that this statement seems bold to many in this industry, but I feel that simplicity in design, with as few steps or assumptions as possible is usually the better choice.  Please understand that I do think wall anchors have a place in the industry. When installed correctly, and at the appropriate anchoring distance and frequency, wall anchors are a great corrective measure for retaining walls, sea walls and various stairwell situations.  But when discussing inward deflection of a primary foundation wall I feel that they are not as effective as steel I-Beam buttresses.

The method that I have preferred for the last 6 years has proven to be dependable and cost effective for the homeowner.

   I would first place a custom order for a steel I-Beam that is three feet longer than the wall being reinforced.
   In addition, the size of the steel (4×4, 4×6, certain pounds per foot, etc.) would be based on conditions with the building.
   In residential applications I would usually space the beams 5 feet on center (Although this can be altered for different situations) perpendicular to the wall.
  I would dig a hole in the floor that would act as the beam pocket and countersink the beam three feet into the ground and fill the hole with concrete.
  Then, I will create a custom top attachment utilizing no less than 16 3/8th lag screws at 3” in length.  I would create a situation where the top of the beam is locked into place by wooden members attached by lag screws so that the pressure at the top is translated to 16-24 lag screws and at minimum 4 floor joists.  This will allow for a safe transfer of pressure and prevent cracking and floor joists.

In closing, I cannot stress how important it is to have a qualified expert design a repair plan for your foundation needs.  All situations are different and there is no technology that works in all situations.  If you think you have a problem, and would like to have it evaluated, give us a call at 800-771-3244 and we would be happy to help.

Please note that the above advice was given as a general rule of thumb.  All situations should be reviewed by an engineer to verify that the correct method is being used.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Wet basements have always been a concern, irrespective of whether you are the owner, seller, or buyer of a home. A wet basement does not only become unusable, but also a flooded foundation can become seriously weak. The newest threat to residential indoor air quality – toxic mold, can also fester at a faster speed when an ample supply of water lies below the foot.

In case you do not fix the leaking basement, you stand a high chance of losing a valuable space in home, losing resale value, inviting health problems, risking electric shock and much more. Following are some of the reasons as to why you should fix your basement:-

1.    Potential Electric Shock: – Electricity and standing water are an unhealthy combination (lights, dryers, washers and other appliances could become hazardous).

2.    Stored Goods: – Stored goods are easily ruined. Drywall, carpeting, furniture, clothing, and tile can be embedded forever with musty smell and mildew.

3.    Wasted living space: – A wet basement causes a lot of space wastage. On the other hand, a dry basement can easily be converted to a family, home office, a recreation room, workshop, and bedroom.

4.    Resale Value: – According to most realtors, a house with a leaky basement may depreciate by nearly 25 %.

5.    Paint Chipping: – Water in blocks may create excessive moisture to hold the paint.

6.    Infestation with Insects: – Water bugs, spiders, centipede, termites, and many other insects like damp environments – including the basement.

7.    Efflorescence: – As water passes through the soil, it becomes more acidic. This water reacts with the lime in cement resulting in huge structural damage.

8.    Selling House: – Seller is liable up to a year if the problem is not disclosed.

9.    Rising Costs: – More damage is caused every time it snows or rains. If not controlled, there may occur severe structural damage, including underpinning, need for new I-beans, replacing walls, or repairing.

10.    Dampness: – Your house may be cooler by ten degrees.

11.    Erosion: – Unchecked water flow to the basement may seriously undermine the footer of the house, causing the uneven settling of the house leading to cracks in ceilings and walls and roof leaks. Extreme erosion could result in a house collapse. Footer undermining could also result in cracks in basement walls, leaving cabinets, archways, windows, cupboards and doors ajar.

Nobody likes a wet basement, and in some cases, it is a clear-cut deal breaker. In fact, a leading construction related magazine found that 19 % of homebuyers refuse to consider the upper fixer while shopping. Wet basements can, depreciate home values by 10 – 25 %. For a prospective homeowner, this is an incredible margin. Why? In the present housing scenario, nearly 40 % of the previously owned homes will have at least a single serious defect, and a wet basement is one of the easiest defects to repair.

Though the expense is not that significant, basement waterproofing could increase the home value by nearly 40%.

According to the National Association of Realtors, a finished dry basement can increase the resale value by nearly 73 % (see details below):-

It is the duty of every homeowner to embark on a complete property disclosure. The general rule in property selling and buying is caveat emptor – let the purchaser beware. Some states such as Pennsylvania have rules, which require the buyer to make full disclosure of the property.

The law states thus “Any seller who intends to transfer any interest in real property shall disclose to the buyer any material defects with the property known to seller by completing the applicable items in a property disclosure statement which satisfies Section 7304 requirements (related to disclosure form). A dated and signed copy of property disclosure statement shall be delivered to the buyer in accordance with section 7305 (relating to delivery of disclosure form) prior to the signing of an agreement of transfer by seller and buyer with respect to the property.

Though wet basement is included in the list of things to disclose in a property, Pennsylvania does not have any law when it comes to selling a house with wet basements.

Talking of wet basements, the American Society of Home Inspectors takes serious exception when it comes to the presence of molds. Mike Casey ASHI president says, “Mold has thrived for years and is commonly found in American homes.” Though it is harmless, too much of some types of mold in a home could be dangerous. Mold is indicative of excess moisture and hence, the source has to be immediately corrected. Casey believes that molds grow naturally in the indoor environment. Besides, mold spores also enter through heating, windows, open doorways, air conditioning systems, and ventilation. However, when the mold spores alight in places of excess moisture and a source of food such as building materials, they often grow and spread.

This happens frequently where leakage occurs in areas, pipes, plant pots, walls, or roofs affected by flood. Casey also observes that in case the mold growth becomes pathogenic or toxic by nature, people might also experience problems in health. Health conditions have often included symptoms such as flu-like conditions, bloody noses, chronic fatigue, congestion and other symptoms, which do not go away.

Casey adds, “As mold grows in undetected moist areas, it is important that homeowners have their homes evaluated for those troublesome areas.”

Before you sell the house, the home inspector conducts a thorough inspection. A home inspector is fully aware of important local ordinances, such as electrical and plumbing systems, frame construction and the condition of other structures found on the property. It is essential to note here that the home inspector is completely different from a code inspector or building inspector, who is given the charge to check whether the property is in full compliance with the governing housing codes. While the home inspector probably is, and should be familiar with the governing codes, they are not responsible for checking the compliance with the applicable codes – this comes under the building inspector’s purview.

Home inspection, whether for real estate inspections for a realty agency or whether for private clients, includes an in-depth analysis of all elements of a home, which are considered as permanent feature.

Based on the home size, a home inspector can spend anywhere between a couple of hours to better part of a day for a single home. The chief focus is not just to get the home inspections on a quick basis, but also to ensure that no property aspects are overlooked.

One amongst the first aspects addressed by the home inspector is the core structure condition. This would mean checking the home foundation for any weak support areas. In addition, crawl spaces and basements are checked for any cracking signs in flooring or walls, in addition to any sign of mold or seepage. In case the basic structure appears sound, the home inspector can thereafter move to other major systems, which offer utilities to a home.

The next phase of inspection would often include the cooling and heating systems for a home and the plumbing and electrical wiring system. Gas lines are checked for proper installation and leaks. Often, the wiring is of special interest to the home inspector, as electricity drives numerous major appliances and household systems.

According to local codes, plumbing should be done without any signs of immediate breakdown. In case wood stoves or fireplaces are present, both are inspected for ensuring that the devices are vented properly and are in proper working order.

Thereafter, the home inspector turns his or her attention to interior home structures. This would mean checking the doorframes and interior wall condition to ensure that there are no signs of the weakened infrastructure.

Besides, even ceilings are inspected for ensuring that they are in nice condition. Home inspectors would also watch out for presence of safety devices, such as fire alarms and smoke detectors. The condition of the closets, attic spaces, and windows, all these rounds out the interior inspection.On the exterior side, the home inspector would pay attention to the roof condition, search for proper drainage and flashing via downspouts and gutters, and ensure that attached elements such as decks or porches are safe and stable.

Other buildings on property such as storage houses or garages also need to face inspection and approval before the home inspector deems the job complete.

TIPS TO SELL HOME:

If you do not have the money to hire an interior designer, what are the essential things that you need to consider before you try to sell it.

This will  be based entirely on the current property condition. Irrespective of what the home condition is, it is worth considering key selection variables, which drive the property selection of one over the other. Selection variables mean those home aspects that one has instant control over.

Though the number of bedrooms, style of a home, location, total square footage and other parameters play a vital role in shaping a home price, they cannot be easily changed sans significant remodeling costs.

Below mentioned are certain crucial areas that a person has to work out :-

Kitchen:

    Change worn-out old cupboards and replace them with a contemporary style new unit without going for the expensive little trims and add-ons.

    As the basic units are priced reasonably, they would appear great. In the process, you can sometimes get away by replacing the old unit doors and transforming the look of a kitchen completely in the process.

    Try to upgrade the counter tops to Corian or Granite. For those on a tight budget, granite tile is a less expensive alternative to sold granite.

    Change leaky, tired taps with new faucet.

    Replace old, stainless sink with new ceramic design.

    Change worn-out old flooring, filling them with new floor tiles; add a sense of spaciousness by selecting a lighter color for brightening the room.

Bathroom:

    First appearance is the last appearance. Nobody wants to purchase a dirty bathroom. Ensure that your bathroom gleams.

    Nothing is worse than a stained old bath. If you feel its days are numbered, replace it and upgrade it to whirlpool style tub, in case you have the  master suite.

    Replace the toilet bowl if it is cracked and/or discolored.

    Now that you are replacing the toilet and the bathtub, it is important that you replace the sink too and ensure that everything matches – especially the taps on sink and tub.

    In case you have shower over bath, ensure your shower curtain is new and includes a dress curtain with tie back.

Steps to Repair a Wet Basement:

During heavy rain, when water rushes into the basement, it is everything except fun. With right materials and expertise, fixing leaky basement is possible. The picture depicts two special valves called overflow valves permitting water to spill and energized fully with automatic charger.

Now the waterproofing system has been installed.

The basement has two huge areas of vulnerability where water could enter. The first is the joint between floor and wall, which gets especially porous at the corners. Another area is where the water is squeezed in through a precast hatchway doorstep.

During heavy rains or rapid snowmelt, water starts saturating the soil and presses against the floor underside and the basement walls. If there is a strong hydrostatic pressure, water can even flow in the basement through joints and cracks, even penetrating the concrete itself.

The area where water migrates through basement walls, a white chalky powder, called efflorescence shows. Actually, this powder is a mineral residue that is left behind by the water after it drains or evaporates down the wall.

Now, after identifying the problem source, it is important to do something. The team starts by digging a huge trench around basement walls with the help of a jackhammer.

Now, cut a hole in floor for the new sump pump. This hole would collect the water channeled to it by a new perimeter drain.

These bright polyethylene panels hide any water stains and efflorescence discoloration and help in creating a barrier, channeling water to drainage trench. Screws are driven into plastic anchors through panels, fitting into the basement’s ¼ inch holes, drilled with the help of carbide masonry bit.

As soon as bright wall panels are put in place, it is time to for installing the plastic drain series, collecting the incoming water, and then channelizing it to the sump. Thereafter, the sections are connected to molded corner pieces and laid end to end.

The drain at the front of the outdoor step – especially a huge problem area, incorporates the open gate such that water flows in from the top.

Thereafter, the sump liner is dropped into position and then is connected to the trenches drainage system.

The space between the edge of the trench and the drain as well as the bottom of the sump pit and sump liner, is filled with crushed rock.

Now, the sump system starts pumping water, right from the drainage system to outside. In case the circuit breaks or the primary pump gets unplugged, the water rises to second pump. A third, battery-powered sump pump takes over if the house loses power. This system can suck up to 7000 gallons of water each hour.

This collected water must have some outlet, which is outside the basement. Now, the two-inch holes get bored into the rim joist and the siding, a bit above basement wall.

Next, a pair of drain lines directs the water outside the basement – one for the backup unit and a second for the primary pump. You can observe two special valves in the picture – these being overflow valves, which permit the water to spill out, especially for the frozen pipes in winter, rather than being forced back to the basement.

Now, a PVC drainpipe runs right from the basement until the drainage gate. Water pumped out of basement, are discharged through the grate after they are carried well away from the foundation, from where they run away from house.

In the interior, the plastic pump runs down the sump, from where it is connected to the discharge portion of the pumps. Thereafter, the pumps are plugged in and the emergency DC pump is connected. The battery then is fully energized and monitored by the automatic charger.

Now that the plumbing work has finished and with the pumps getting tested and ready for action, the grate placed at the stairwell’s bottom is tightly sealed with the duct tape and the concrete being troweled around drain, covering up everything except at the top. Remove tape over the gate when the concrete is dry.

Any water that enters the floor first enters the drainage system, is then directed to the sump pump. Water that leaks through the walls first flows in a downward direction, into the drain behind the plastic panels. Most of the water gets soaked in the sump, pumping it away from house.

Now the basement is dry and devoid of leaks.

Whether you water proof your basement yourself or bring in a crew, this method would ensure that you could sleep at night during snowy and rainy months without having to think about flooding.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

An indoor air quality certified professional (IAQA) is one of the world’s most qualified and sought after IAQ experts. IAQA members having AmIAQ certification are often called upon by building management and general public for practical solutions to any complex IAQ problem.

HIRE ONLY THE BEST CERTIFIED AND TRAINED IAQA MEMBERS

While hiring a contractor or professional consultant, select a firm that has a certified and qualified staff that follows industry guidelines and standards and ensures proper job execution.

IAQA has several training courses, including remediation and assessment programs made available to its members through several indoor air disciplines.

HOW TO SCREEN AN IAQ CONSULTANT

Before making that crucial selection, check whether the consultant has appropriate project experience and training. Seek information from contact clients and references to know whether he has successfully accomplished earlier IAQ related problems.

Check whether one of the personnel (who have more experience than others do) stays in direct touch with site investigation staff or remain onsite.

There are numerous IAQ qualified consultants who work for small firms or who are self-employed. Nationally recognized accreditations and certifications would help you in ensuring that firms of varying size yield similar results. Note that not all professional society memberships, certifications or accreditations are equal. Be wary of contractors who cross their expertise limits or those having an in-depth financial stake in the investigation outcome.

For instance, though a duct-cleaning professional may have noticed several IAQ problems, it does not qualify her/him to remedy and diagnose all of them. You need to remain aware of federal certification or state certification requirements for persons involved in ventilation modifications.

Next, always clarify your stand as to what you are expecting from your hired consultant. If required, see whether the consultant can respond on a short notice. This may help you define the scope of services on an upfront basis. However, an indoor air quality is rarely predictable. Hence, your proposed scope may get modified based on your question and answer session with some prospective consultants.

No two indoor air quality problems or buildings are alike. Hence, the scope of project could not be defined till a thorough inspection is conducted through testing and analysis.

If time permits, interview candidates and solicit proposals. A telephonic interview will suffice. Ask the consultant for her/his general approach towards problem resolution. Usually, a systematic but general approach is more effective than extensive air testing. Proposals have to indicate the estimated consulting expenses and fees for the initial phase of the specified project.

Pay attention to project approach and enquire if you feel some of the scope items don’t have any sense. Find as to how the decisions for remediation or follow-up testing could be made.

What Studies Indicate

Studies indicate that most people spend 90 % of their time indoors and Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) issues exercise deep impact on several people around the world. Poor air quality leads to decreased property values, lost productivity, liability issue and health concerns.

IAQ problems in non-industrial buildings such as offices, schools and homes are often caused by inter-related and complex issues. Fixing and diagnosing poor IAQ sources may need professional expertise of more than one contractor or consultant.

Currently, there are several firms available which would help you find solutions to your IAQ problems. As the IAQ industry is non-regulated in most parts of the country, it is important to ensure that only qualified firms and individuals deal with such complex issues.

So far, IAQA is the largest professional organization dealing with issues related to indoor air quality. Since 1995, IAQA has delivered the industry’s most respected and prestigious programs especially in mold training.

Indoor air quality impacts occupant comfort and health in a major way. Whenever issues related to indoor air quality arises, it is important that only the highly qualified ones are called upon.

What happens when you don’t hire an IAQA:

If you have a serious indoor air problem and are not hiring an IAQA, below mentioned are the problems that you may face:-

1. Excessive mold growth would result in more toxic spores getting dispersed in your room.

2. In case you have a weak resistance power, there are high chances that you may suffer from respiratory ailment or sinus based problems.

3. Prolonged mold exposure may lead to chronic illness and, if the problem persists for a longer period, may even force you to shift to a safer location.

4. Hiring a non-experienced consultant to clear mold growth may offer temporary solution. After a brief period of lull, mold may develop and even spread to other areas.

IAQA in Pennsylvania:

Most people may be unaware of the fact, but Pennsylvania is the only state in the United States which does not have a statewide certification. Hence IAQA is the only available resource for a consumer in Pennsylvania.

How to find an IAQA agent:

For those who wish to seek an IAQ professional contractor or consultant, then the Indoor Air Quality Association is the best resource. Using a variety of filter criteria, you can search the member database. Some of them are as follows:-

1. Industry Discipline – Members of IAQA come from numerous trades and professions. You can use the IAQA advanced search mechanism for advancing the query so that it fits their needs

2. IAQA Profiles – There are numerous IAQA members who have posted the personal profiles in which they have detailed their credentials, experience and education. In case you are not getting enough results while you search for the IAQA site, you can unclick a box which states, “Include those listings which have IAQ profiles.”

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN IAQA TRAINING CERTIFICATION AND PROFESSIONAL CERTIFICATION

Adam Andrews from the American Indoor Air quality council states, “If you hold a private IAQA related credential, you might be surprised to learn that it may be nothing more than a training certificate. Newly Published ANSI/NOCA Standard 1100 explains the difference between training certificates, known as assessment based certificates and true professional certification programs. According to the standard, a training certificate is awarded to someone who takes a particular course of instruction and then passes a test based on that course.”

Adding further, Adam says, “A professional certification, on the other hand, is awarded to someone who passes an examination based on broad industry knowledge that is independent of training courses or course providers. In section 8, Standard 1100 stipulate that holders of training certificates may not use letters or acronyms behind their names. Nor may they use the name “certified” in describing their credentials. The standard suggests that the so-called certifications that are offered by many IAQA organizations today are, in reality, nothing more than training certificates. And that these organizations mislead their members by referring to their credentials as certifications.”

Now the ANSI/NOCA standard does not condemn all IAQ certified bodies. Organizations such as the American Board of Industrial Hygiene (ABIH) and the American Indoor Air Quality Council (AIAQC) offer professional certification programs as defined in Standard 1100. Predictably, these organizations are among the only IAQ groups to earn third party accreditation of their certification programs. If you are unsure whether your credential is compliant with standard 1100, ask the following questions:-

1. Does my certifying body develop a credit or deliver certification prep courses?

2. Does my certifying body require these courses as prerequisites for certification?

3. Or imply that such courses are the only way to become certified?

If the answer to these questions is yes, then your certifying body should not grant titles or use the word certified in describing you. According to ANSI/NOCA Standard 1100, these credentials are training certificates – not professional certifications.

Press the link below to click on IAQA expert Aaron Stull’s profile on the official IAQ site: – Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”