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Posts Tagged ‘Expert Advice’

National Association of Waterproofing & Structural Repair Contractors (NAWSRC)

Friday, July 30th, 2010

We at Keystone Basement Systems are proud to be a member of the National Association of Waterproofing and Structural Repair Contractors (NAWSRC), which is a professional trade association that caters to the needs of the public and waterproofing, structure and foundation repair industries. Keystone Basement Systems is a basement contractor and specializes in mold removal, foundation structural repair and basement waterproofing. We strictly adhere to the standards of practice and canon of ethics established by NAWSRC. Before we go into the standards of practice and canon of ethics by NAWSRC and how we subscribe to them, let us have a look at what NAWSRC is all about and its responsibilities in the industry.

clip_image0021The credibility of being a member of NAWSRC is that it gives the public the confidence and trust of having the highest degree of knowledge, standards, ethics and quality of workmanship available in the industry. NAWSRC is also dedicated to answering public queries and creating awareness on basement waterproofing, house foundation repair, concrete repair, house leveling, pier and beam and other related issues. They also provide local professional contractors who are NAWSRC members, in case you are looking for one in your area. When it comes to information and services, NAWSRC ensures that its members are updated with the latest developments in waterproofing, structure, foundation repair and industrial tools to benefit the consumer. For more information on NAWSRC and the latest developments in the waterproofing, structure and foundation industries, you can log on to http://www.nawsrc.org/.

Since the NAWSRC is the only recognized trade association in the waterproofing and structural repair industry, the NAWSRC Standards of Practice will help the consumer in locating a NAWSRC contractor in any area. These standards have been used by the Better Business Bureau to promote them in the waterproofing industry and have been successful in states like Indiana, Minnesota and Pennsylvania.

Canon of Ethics

As a member of NAWSRC, Keystone Basement Systems ensures that it provides the best of its mold removal, foundation structural repair and basement waterproofing services by professional basement contractors in the Pennsylvania, Ohio and West Virginia areas. Our basement specialists are NAWSRC certified experts, engineers and microbial remediators that will satisfy your individual requirements and budget. We provide free estimates, create public awareness, and educate our customers on the pros and cons of basements. We also believe in taking up projects that would be both structurally and economically sound for our customers. Our services are in accordance with the NAWSRC Standards of Practice, Canon of Ethics and all applicable business codes.

If you are one of those people facing issues with weeping walls, cracks in your foundation or a musty basement, please visit our website at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/ and get in touch with us today to cater to your needs!

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Why water deteriorates masonry foundations over time

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

clip_image0021Masonry construction has always been known for its durability, as it is able to sustain harsh conditions depending on the weather and geographical location. It also gives an attractive appearance and requires relatively low maintenance. The use of materials in masonry construction ranges from stone foundations to brick walls. Since some masonry foundations tend to be susceptible to accelerated deterioration, they were either painted or covered with stucco for protection. In addition to the weather and location, water can be a primary cause for the deterioration of masonry foundations.

The common causes of masonry deterioration are:

•Climatic Conditions: Excessive moisture within masonry foundations due to extreme hot and cold climatic conditions causes the masonry to expand and contract at different rates, weakening the masonry’s bond with the mortar.

•Uneven Settlement: Uneven settlement, deterioration of materials like rusting iron anchors or rotting window lintels, washing out of internal bonding and mortar and other structural problems, as a result of water flowing through walls.

•Weathering: Mortar that is generally used to help in the freeze-and-thaw expansion-and-contraction of masonry walls is washed away with heavy rains, wind and pollution.

•Design and Materials: Poor design and inappropriate materials used for masonry construction under different weather conditions and geographical locations can lead to several foundation problems.

•Exterior Maintenance:
Proper maintenance of the exterior of a masonry construction will minimize most of the problems that lead to masonry deterioration. It is essential to install properly functioning gutters, downspouts and flashing to avoid dampness, water accumulation at foundations and growth of vegetation due to water penetration.

The following are some of the significant problems that come along with masonry construction due to moisture deterioration:

1. Severe climatic conditions like extreme temperatures, wind speeds and directions, high humidity levels and heavy snow can deteriorate masonry foundations, including cracking, spalling, surface erosion and efflorescence. Violent waves, debris carried by waves and heavy deposits of ice on masonry constructions can damage the strength and features of the foundations.

2. Severe freeze-thaw cycles can cause damage from frost action if moisture is trapped in walls or there is lack of total structure ventilation. In addition, they can also cause condensation that will encourage mold growth.

3. Locations by the sea can lead to efflorescence on the masonry due to high salt content in the air.

4. Industrial areas cause acid rains that can damage limestone, marble, sandstone and concrete.

5. Foundations and walls are usually immersed in water for a long time during natural calamities like floods and this can lead to damage.

6. Absorption of water depends on the type of soil and influences water drainage around the structure. Excess water in the soil leads to dampness, giving rise to issues with the foundation.

7. During heavy rains, puddles of water form around buildings that do not have proper slopes. This may lead to localized ground saturation and water penetration.

8. There are possibilities of water penetration in brick or stone foundations that are laid close to the earth.

9. Trees and vegetation like ivy and creepers prevent proper drying of masonry foundations by allowing water penetration in the joints which lead to erosion.

Therefore, it is important to identify the cause of moisture deterioration in masonry constructions in order to fix the problem and avoid further damage. Alternative solutions are waterproofing the foundation to prevent leakage, replacing cracked bricks and stones and repointing mortar joints. Consulting a skilled masonry craftsman or inspector will help in diagnosing the problem and bring about quick solutions. At Keystone Basement Systems, we specialize in foundation structural repair and waterproofing services, which come along with experienced professionals. You can also visit our blog at http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/ for easy tips on foundation repair and waterproofing.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.nps.gov/history/maritime/handbook/masonry1.pdf
2. http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/masonry-foundations-and-piers.shtml
3. http://www.onlinetips.org/masonry-deterioration
4. http://www.riverheadli.com/HPG.Masonry.pdf

Getting Rid of Basement Odors

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

In our previous article, we discussed about the different causes of basement odors and where they originate from. But how do we get rid of these musty odors to improve our basements in the home? Let us look at some of the effective ways of dealing with these unpleasant and uncomfortable odors in the basement.

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1. Cleaning the basement: Cleaning your basement will get rid of most of the musty odors, mold and mildew, dampness and humidity existing in the basement. Choose a sunny day to remove all the furniture and carpets in order to sun-dry them and also deep-clean the carpets. Sweep and dust all around the basement to remove dust that is the primary cause for allergies and other respiratory problems. It is recommended to use a disinfectant to clean the walls and floors, so as to get rid of the musty odor due to mold and mildew growth that are usually found under carpets, behind panels and behind perimeter walls. Throw away all the unnecessary stuff from your basement as they are favorable to the growth of molds and, in addition, you can create space in the basement. Arrange clothes, books and furniture in a neat way by keeping all clothes in the wardrobe, arranging books in stacks and minimizing the furniture in the basement.

2. Waterproofing:
Cracks or leakages in the walls are usually caused due to dampness. The dampness could be either due to unfavorable climatic conditions, improper drainage system and excessive humidity. Cracked walls should not be left as they are, and should be either sealed or patched as soon as they are identified. Leaving a cracked wall unattended could worsen the situation by widening and spreading all over the wall. Dehumidification is essential for leaking walls, since it helps in drying the wall. These walls can be cleaned with trisodium phosphate, a hard surface cleaner. Once the walls dry, seal them with a latex concrete sealer to avoid further leakage and musty odor.

3. Dehumidification:
Humidity is another primary cause for smelly basements. A dehumidifier can help in controlling the humidity in your basement. Attaching a hose to the dehumidifier will get rid of the excess moist air in the basement, leaving no space for the growth of molds that lead to the musty smell. It is also essential to keep in mind the type of dehumidifier you choose for your basement and should be based on the efficiency and size of your basement.

4. Ventilation: This is undoubtedly one of the most important factors to consider when getting rid of basement odors. On a fine sunny day, just open all the windows in your basement and switch on your exhaust fans to allow circulation of fresh air within the basement from outside. Cross-ventilation is also very important in removing humidity and stagnant air that gets accumulated in the basement.

5. Drainage system:
Ensure that you install both a proper interior and exterior basement drainage system to prevent condensation that can lead to dampness. Wrap pipe insulation around the basement pipes to avoid condensation from building up on them. Leaking basement walls can trap water and increase humidity in the basement. Ensure that the ground slopes and downspouts are extended around six feet away from the house. You can also read our blog article on basement drainage systems for more information at http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?p=980.

Apparently, there are also some home remedies that could be useful to get rid of the musty odors in your basement too.

• Baking soda is effective for neutralizing odors and absorbs moisture and so you can either leave it open in a container or sprinkle a little on your smelly carpet and later vacuum it.
• Vinegar is a household product that helps in neutralizing odors, including those left behind by pet accidents and skunk sprays.
• Citrus fruits like lemons and oranges leave a pleasant smell behind and can be used as air fresheners.
• Charcoal and cat litter help in absorbing moisture.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.ehow.com/how_2209654_clean-basement.html
2. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/householdodors
3. http://www.ehow.com/how_18796_remove-musty-basement.html
4. http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/odor-removal/how-to-get-rid-of-musty-basement-smell/

What is Condensation?

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

Condensation is the conversion of water from its gaseous state into its liquid state. There is always some amount of moisture present in the air. During cold weather conditions, the moisture present in the air condenses into tiny droplets of water. In fact, the air that you breathe out can be seen on a cold winter morning. Condensation can also occur on those hot, humid summer days where you would need an air conditioner to cool your home. This may result in hazy windows due to the air conditioning.

clip_image0021Household activities such as cooking, washing and drying clothes are responsible for the excess moisture present in the air within your home. An average family creates around 20 pints of water vapor per day. This can be usually seen in the form of fog, mist, dew or frost in the atmosphere and plays a significant role in the formation of clouds, rain and snow.

Condensation is a result of the fall in temperature of vapor even below its saturation temperature. When warm air rises in the atmosphere and cools down, it loses its ability to hold the water vapor in the air and hence the excess water vapor condenses to form cloud droplets.

What does condensation have to do with basements? Well, it has quite a lot to do with basements. The moisture that forms as a result of condensation can cause rotting window frames, peeling wallpaper and mold on walls, carpets or clothes. This phenomenon occurs where there is no adequate air circulation. You may have noticed mold on your windows, walls, ceilings and furniture a couple of times, especially during the winter season. This also comes along with stale air that gets accumulated within the basement due to lack of ventilation. All these factors lead to aggravation of illnesses such as asthma and bronchitis.

What is the difference between condensation and dampness?

Dampness can be a result of condensation. As mentioned earlier, condensation occurs during cold climatic conditions when the water vapor is surrounded by cold temperature and the moisture content of the air is high. This leads to the growth of mold and mildew which may due to lack of air circulation and insulation. Dampness can also be caused due to other reasons such as leaking drainage pipes, wastes or overflows, cracked walls and ceilings, leakages from the roof where tiles are missing during rains and defective damp course or no damp course.

Condensation in the basement can be caused by the following reasons:

(1) Lack of ventilation, especially during the summers
(2) Lack of insulation, especially during the winters
(3) Inadequate heating in the basement

How to Reduce Condensation or Dampness in the Basement

(1) Allow moisture to move out of your home when cooking, washing or drying clothes and heating by closing doors to avoid circulation of moisture and opening windows to let out the moisture.

(2) Make sure that you ventilate your home to remove moisture by opening windows, using exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathroom to let out the damp air after frying or taking a hot shower, installing air vents wherever possible, cutting breather holes in cupboards and wardrobes and installing ventilators for windows.

(3) Insulate your basement by air sealing, installing insulators in your walls, dehumidifiers, which will keep your rooms warm and simultaneously prevent the entry of moisture and hence avoid dampness. Get effective ways of insulating your basement from our blog article, http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?p=923.

(4) In order to remove mold and mildew from walls, use a fungicide. Clothes and carpets affected by mold can be dry cleaned and shampooed, respectively. Mold and mildew creates a high risk of respiratory problems and gets worse if disturbed by brushing or vacuum cleaning.

(5) Get rid of any kind of moisture immediately by wiping any surface moisture to avoid room for any damage.

(6) Fungicidal paints for the walls will also help in preventing growth of mold and mildew.

So next time you think of basement condensation, you know exactly what to do!

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

References

1. http://www.ace.mmu.ac.uk/eae/weather/older/condensation.html
2. http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/%28Gh%29/guides/mtr/hyd/cond/home.rxml
3. http://nptel.iitm.ac.in/courses/Webcourse-contents/IISc-BANG/Heat%20and%20Mass%20Transfer/pdf/M8/Student_Slides_M8.pdf
4. http://www.weatherquestions.com/What_is_condensation.htm
5. http://www.changeworks.org.uk/uploads/wat/Condensation.pdf
6. http://www.polaristechnologies.com/documents/ControllingCondensation.pdf
7. http://www.hollandroofingco.com/files/Facts_About_Condensation2.pdf
8. http://www.barnet.gov.uk/condensation.pdf

Basement Drainage Systems: An Overview

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

Basement drainage systems can be a solution to all your basement problems such as water leakages, bad odor, stagnant air, furniture damage, mold and mildew. These drainage systems can either be installed in the interior or exterior of your home. Different methods are usually implemented for both interior and exterior drainage systems depending on the cause of damage. The following are some of the reliable options you could use to install a drainage system in your home.

1. Interior Basement Drainage System

Most people opt for an interior basement drainage system for a number of reasons that include the affordability to install one inside the basement than outside, the convenience of the job, the minimal time required for installation, no hassles on the availability of services and reliability. Some useful ways of drainage systems that you can consider are:

interior-drain-detail_1

(a) Concrete walls: An interior drainage channel adhered at the base of the wall and the floor slab is ideal in situations where water tends to enter the basement. Installing the channel is a cost-effective approach, especially for concrete walls with cracks, and works by simply by collecting water into an airtight sump with the help of another channel that is placed on top of the slab. The water then flows through a trap to the sump basin. Although this method is effective for concrete walls, it is not very helpful in the case of masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab.

(b) Masonry walls: For masonry walls, installing a drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing gets rid of moisture problems inside the basement because it drains the block cores completely. For this reason, holes are drilled at the base of every block core to permit drainage. The concrete along the slab edge should be removed and replaced for this approach. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected.

(c) Perforated drain pipes: A perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing by removing and replacing concrete at the slab edge allows free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe. A dimpled plastic sheeting is placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected. This method gives better results when combined with an active soil gas management system that connects with the sump and perimeter drain pipe.

2. Exterior Basement Drainage System

Exterior basement drainage systems have been found to be costlier than interior drainage systems since there is a lot of work, time and external causes such as weather conditions involved. On the other hand, they are essential for preventing exterior foundation damage. Although exterior drainage systems are expensive and time-consuming, people concerned about property and equity maintenance will have long-term benefits. A look at some exterior drainage system approaches:

exterior-drain-detail_2(a) Grading: One would wonder as to what the soil has to do with a drainage system. Proper grading of the soil around the house would eliminate the entrance of water into the basement. Creating slopes would drive away water before it reaches the basement walls. In fact, this method would not even require a basement drainage.

(b) Open drain: Open drains which are just shallow trenches that are lined with cement or plastic and held together with pebbles or gravel help in collecting water and discarding it before it reaches the basement.

(c) French drain: A French drain is a trench that is covered with gravel or rock and basically redirects surface and ground water. This is useful for exterior drainage systems because the French drain that consists of a perforated pipe not only gets rid of water entering the basement, but draws water out of the soil before it soaks into the soil. The depth of the trench can range from 2-3 feet to 5-6 feet deep. However, lack of maintenance can lead to clogging of these trenches from sediments in the ground that will force water into the basement.

(d) Gutter downspouts: Gutter downspouts that are extended at least ten feet from the house and preferably connected to a rainwater collection system can work out as a reliable source for drainage.

Disadvantages of Interior Basement Drainage System:

1. Extensively finished basement - The basement has to be properly insulated and sealed with appropriate materials which make the process expensive and intrusive. Improper installation can lead to moisture and mold problems and the interior drainage system may require non-invasive termite detection systems in termite-prone areas.

2. Excessively thick basement floor – Thick basement flooring can make the process impractical and, in some cases, impossible to install.

Disadvantages of Exterior Basement Drainage System:

1. Property line constraints - People may not own enough land surrounding their homes for an excavation trench and an area for a machine to operate. Moreover, digging or excavating by hand can be a tedious and expensive process. Excavation can also get difficult in different seasons like the spring if the area has a high water table and is impossible during winters.

2. Safety - Some problems occur on hillsides that will not allow safe excavation. This can lead to extensive damage in terms of landscaping.

3. Urban areas - Some areas are so densely built that outside measures are not practical.

4. Obstructions - Some homes have additions like paved carports, gardens, trees and fences that overhand the foundation drainage and thus make it impossible to excavate those areas rendering external methods inadequate.

5. Utilities - Some areas have underground utilities that make external excavation difficult or impossible.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1. http://gratedrain.blogspot.com/
2. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/understanding-interior-basement-waterproofing.html
3. http://www.ehow.com/list_5782927_basement-drainage-ideas.html
4. http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/housingandclothing/components/7051-04.html
5. http://www.basementsystems.com/basement-waterproofing/basement-waterproofing-products/drainage-systems.html

The Importance of Basement Dehumidification

Thursday, June 10th, 2010

Have you ever thought of the positive effects of ventilating or dehumidifying your basement? Well, in order to understand these factors, let us first look at the causes of poor ventilation in your basement. A wet or damp basement could be a result of wall cracks and pipe leakages and weather conditions such as cold winters and floods. This leads to dampness along with stale air circulating within the basement which creates a favorable environment for the growth of mold and mildew. In contrast, during warm weather conditions, the humidity tends to be on the higher side and lack of ventilation in the basement leads to recurrence of stagnant air, bad odor and growth of mold.

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How can this be avoided and what does it have to do with basement dehumidification? Apart from water damage dehumidification and mold remediation, basement dehumidifiers have always been considered as an alternative measure for moisture control, air exchange and ventilation, especially in areas like basements and crawl spaces. On the other hand, there have been issues such as the cost factor, daily maintenance and efficiency between traditional and modern humidifiers.

The benefits of having a high-quality, energy-efficient dehumidifier in your basement will definitely make up for the cost of buying and maintaining it in the long run. These benefits include:

1. Mold: As mentioned earlier, installing a dehumidifier in your home reduces the chances of mold damage, since the cleanup and replacement costs come at very high rates. In fact, many insurance policies do not cover mold-related expenses which leave us with the only option of trying to prevent the damage.

2. Health: The constant circulation of stale air inside the basement obviously affects the immune system, targeting the respiratory functions by inhaling allergens, bacteria, fungi and dust. This leads to colds, asthmas, flus, allergies and other respiratory problems. The installation of a dehumidifier reduces this risk and recycles the stale air circulating in the basement by condensation.

3. Space: Due to the common problems in the basement such as lack of ventilation, dampness and poor air circulation leading to an uncomfortable environment, these areas are not fully utilized as compared to other areas such as the living room. Dehumidifiers will help control and maintain temperature levels in basements at all times, providing cozy and comfortable surroundings.

4. Energy: The air molecules of damp air caused by the presence of moisture in the surroundings are heavier than the normal air molecules and therefore affect air circulation. This in turn leads to excessive or improper utilization of heating and cooling systems which require more energy.

5. Selling Opportunities: Homes with maximum living space have been found to be more attractive to potential buyers. Hence, basements that are well-finished, furnished and comfortable can be made to good use in various ways.

With cutting-edge technology and design at their best in the current scenario, there are energy-efficient dehumidifiers available at reasonable rates. These devices come along with considerable warranties and have improved air quality capable of getting rid of hassles like moisture, mold and condensation.

It is preferable to install basement dehumidifiers in an enclosed area for better efficiency. Installing exhaust fans in the bathrooms and ceiling fans in the basement will help in proper air circulation for sufficient ventilation. Basement dehumidifiers work in a simple way by drawing water vapor from the air and collecting it in a holding tank by condensation and then releasing the water through a drain pipe. They can be installed permanently with the help of a qualified professional or are portable for the user’s convenience to carry it wherever possible.

There are also various types of dehumidifiers. To learn more about Humidex and other dehumidifiers, visit http://blog.keystonebasementsystems.com/?m=200909.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1. http://www.breathepureair.com/dehumidifiers_basement.html
2. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/basement-ventilation.html
3. http://hubpages.com/hub/Best-Basement-Dehumidifier-Must-For-Sultry-Basements
4. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html
5. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-ventilation
6. http://www.onlinetips.org/basement-dehumidifier

Maintaining the Temperature in Your Basement

Friday, June 4th, 2010

basement-insulation-2lg6Basements are usually recommended in areas that have steep slopes and experience extreme cold climatic conditions with low temperature and deep frost penetration. Deeper excavation comes in a package along with the construction and structure of basements, which of course increases costs, but results in a reliable, cozy and comfortable space.

One of the primary foundations in the United States are basements, but they are also accompanied by a number of common issues related to extreme temperatures like the cold winters, heat and humidity, water intrusion mold and an unhealthy environment. Research has shown that 25% of energy costs come from the heat loss of basements. Therefore, a properly sealed and insulated basement with protection from moisture is an additional necessity in reducing energy costs.

There are three basic methods that are used in basement insulation, namely, interior insulation, exterior insulation and insulated concrete forms. However, before sealing up and insulating the basement, one has to initially inspect the basement for any cracks or leaks that can be possible entries for moisture. These cracks and leaks should be repaired and sealed in order to allow the basement to dry completely, especially for insulation of basement walls.

1.  Interior Insulation: This is considered to be one of the simplest and cost-effective means of basement insulation. The installation is usually done behind interior framing or by furring strips placed against the foundation wall with a range of insulation materials. Special care has to be taken to ensure that the wall is completely sealed and dry from moisture which is likely to enter during the cold winters. For this reason, it is always suggested to use a non-absorbent material for the inner layer of the insulation. The disadvantage of interior insulation is that it reduces the usable interior space and is not as effective as exterior insulation in moisture protection.

2.  Exterior Insulation:
Exterior insulation is equally important in protecting the basement from any additional moisture and cold weather. The exterior of the walls is insulated to reduce heat loss and condensation, and protect the interior of the basement from any unnecessary damage. Materials like extruded polystyrene are durable and moisture resistant for exterior insulation. This method of insulation can turn to be a little expensive with the type of material used, especially for an existing building. It is therefore advised to have a perimeter drainage system in place.

3. Insulated Concrete Forms: These products are comparatively new and can be installed easily. Hollow foam blocks are stacked together and then filled with concrete. They serve the purpose of both interior and exterior insulation, and are used as surfaces for attaching drywall, brick ties and other finish materials. Some of them are even treated with termite-resistant chemicals.

Is temperature maintenance in your basement only limited to extreme cold weather conditions? Well, the answer is no. As mentioned earlier, basements also face problems in humid conditions which are favorable for the growth of molds, microbes, dust mites and other organisms. These micro-organisms play a vital role in deteriorating health conditions.

dehumidifier-main14Basement dehumidifiers are the best solution to reducing the humidity in the basement to normal recommended levels, which is between 40-60%. They are of two types, the portable unit and the installed unit. The portable unit is user-friendly, whereas the installed unit requires a qualified professional for installation. The latter are usually installed with a fan, heating pump and cooling coil. The moisture in the air is drawn by the fan over the heat pump. This water vapor is then condensed into water through the cooling coil and collected into a holding tank and can be removed either manually or through a drain hose installed in the unit. The installed basement dehumidifier is more efficient as compared to the portable one, which also explains why it is more expensive.

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source Links:

1.http://www.superhvac.com/learn/insulation-basement?pk=ce64e590be3cb34c230d426caff7315d&t=k9sel9a6bfd4%2434145jr2e3kd3b18b62f193e2852c3a75efa
2.http://www.plasticsportalasia.net/wa/plasticsAP~en_GB/function/conversions:/publish/common/upload/foams/styrodur_technical_literature/Styrodur_cellar_insulation.pdf
3.http://www.basement-insulation.org/
4.http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/fact%20sheets/basement%20Insulation%20Technology%20fact.pdf
5.http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/AE_basement_insulation.html
6.http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf
7.http://www.buzzle.com/articles/home-dehumidification-basement-dehumidifiers.html

INPUTS TO DEAL WITH SAGGING/SLOPPING FLOORS

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

Sagging or sloping floors are mainly due to inadequate deflecting or failing support beams. The other causes being rotted sills or an inadequate foundation. In addition to affecting the floor, these conditions can cause wall cracks and make it impossible to open doors and windows.

sagging-and-sloping-floors-1According to Dr. Sarah Kirby, housing specialist at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in Raleigh, sagging upper floors and those caused by insect or water damage should be checked by a contractor. Although it is possible to correct minor sags on a first floor with a pair of screw-type jack posts and a wood or steel beam to bridge the jacks, it is a difficult and somewhat risky task. An important thing to remember while dealing with sagging or sloping floors is that the posts need a very firm foundation. Even if you have a 4-inch concrete slab, you still need to create a concrete pier pad for the jack that is 18 to 24 inches square and at least 12 inches deep. Once these pier pads have cured and the jacks are in place, begin by raising the floor slowly, as little as a quarter turn per week. Jacking slowly allows for settling without serious disruptions or sudden stress. On the other hand, lifting might create additional wall cracks and change door and window margins.

For the mudroom that has a general slope to it, you may be looking at foundation or other structural problems.If you have foundation problems it is comparatively easier to find companies that specialize in foundation repair. They will come in and jack up the portion of the house with foundation problems and place new footers. Meanwhile, it is difficult to estimate the cost for this service, but based on the average charges in the market it would cost $8,000 or more.sagging-and-sloping-floors-2 If your sloping floor is due to a deteriorated sill, you’ll have a difficult time finding crews who specialize in this kind of work. Foundation repair companies would not probably take the work, so you may have to resort to hiring a general contractor who may know of someone who does this kind of work. A good carpenter who possesses house jacks or one who is willing to rent them will certainly be able to do this work too, but you need to make certain that he has  experience with this type of work. There are chances that carpenters with lack of experience may be tempted to take on  the job because of the high fees involved. It is not possible to jack up a house in a day. It has to be jacked up slowly over weeks or even longer to avoid cracking wallboard, plaster, windows, and even structural elements.

A saggy, dipping dining room floor has its own set of problems. If you have access to the bottom of the floor, such as a basement or crawlspace, it is possible to jack up saggy joists until they are level and then sister them so that they remain straight after the jacks are removed. Another, cheaper fix is to put adjustable steel columns under the joists to keep them propped up. This steel column fix requires the base of the column be secured to the basement floor and the top of the column to be secured to the joist. Keep in mind that anything involving 20 ton house jacks will take time. You may also try a new hardwood over the existing floor. A plywood sub-floor would nicely bridge any minor waves in the existing floor, and leveling compound would help as well. You will have to make sure your joists can handle the addition of more weight: 3/4″ plywood subfloor and 3/4″ hardwood. On the bottom, you could always sister the joists and add a few adjustable columns to strengthen the joists to handle the additional weight. There are several problems that can cause a sagging or sloping floor, which is why fixing a sloping floor becomes difficult. Foundation issues, deteriorating wood supports (especially sills, which rest on the foundation footer), improperly installed joists or sub-floors, and other issues can all cause a floor to slope or sag. In many cases, fixing a sloping floor is an expensive and lengthy operation. It might also be difficult to find the right company to do the job. There are rare situations where you may just need to come to terms with your sagging, sloping floor, especially in the case of old houses. If your home has floors that are sloped and sagging, it is a good idea to have a professional evaluate if anything needs to be done.

IDENTIFYING THE ROOT CAUSE
Since this operation can get very expensive, unless you know a contractor that ysagging-and-sloping-floors-3ou trust 100% to identify the problem, you might consider hiring a structural engineer for the diagnosis. By hiring a structural engineer who will not have any part in the repair process to evaluate your sagging or sloping floor, you can be sure that the conclusion will be unaffected by the prospect of a profitable contract. He or she will also be able to advise you on the type of contractor your should hire to do the job, which can be confusing as some of the root causes of sagging and sloping floors fall under different categories.

FIXING A SLOPING FLOOR
If a professional has examined your floor and determined that its cause is something that could compromise the integrity of your house’s structure, you may be able to fix the root of the problem and leave the floor as is. If your sloping floor is severe enough that you simply cannot ignore it, fixing it should be a priority. Many older homes have problems with sloping and sagging floors. In a lot of cases, the owners of these homes simply ignore the problem or pass it off as a normal part of having a classic house. Sloping and sagging floors caused by foundation problems aren’t easy to fix, but finding a company to do the work shouldn’t be too difficult. Foundation specialists will repair any structural problems first; they will then use one technique to mend your sloping floor. This might involve jacking up floor joists and installing supports, or it could require jacking up the whole house and installing new footers. When done right, jacking up a house takes a long time. Plan in advance to avoid structural damage. If your sloping floor is caused by improper installation of the floor itself, you may be able to simply get the floor pulled up and installed again the right way or put down an entirely different floor. In some cases, you might have to install a new sub-floor or create a new moisture seal. Especially in older homes where the support system under the floor might be deteriorating or simply not that strong in the first place, additional support might need to be put in place to handle the weight of some flooring materials. In most cases, fixing sloping floors is involved enough that you probably won’t be able to get an estimate over the phone. It’s worth the time, however, to meet with and get estimates from several contractors to find both the best price and the company with the most experience doing this kind of work.

sagging-and-sloping-floors-4JACKING UP SLOPING FLOORS
The primary reason to jackup your home for sill plate,or foundation repair or replacement and floor joist damage is to rectify the floor-sag that gets created in the middle of a room or in the middle of the overall home. This type of damage must be repaired because it applies a great amount of stress on the other floor joists and support columns. This stress will lead to greater damage if the underlying cause is not repaired. Besides additional structural damage, you will develop cracks in plaster and drywall walls, and door frames will go out of square.In order to repair a floor joist that has split, it is necessary to jack up both sides of the floor joist until the joist is back in a level position. Using the hydraulic jacks, you should jack up each side 1/8 inch at a time. Do not try to jack up one side of the floor joist to level and then the other side; this will create undue pressures on the floor and walls above the split floor joist.

It may be necessary to use a chisel or reciprocating saw to remove any pieces of lumber that are hindering the joist from returning to a level position. Once the floor joist is level it can be repaired by taking two pieces of the same size lumber stock and attaching it to both sides of the damaged floor joist. Use nails to hold the pieces in place temporarily and then use construction adhesive in conjunction with 1/2 inch minimum diameter, carriage or machine bolts with heavy washers in a dice pattern 5 layout to hold the splints in permanently. When installing the bolts next to the split, in order to have non-damaged floor joist lumber where the bolts are going to be located, you need to back away from the split. The splints should extend a minimum of 2 feet on either side of the split. Support columns can be made of concrete block, brick, wood or steel. No matter what the material is, damage can occur over time. There are many different scenarios with respect to damaged columns and it is impossible to cover them all. However, there are really only two fixes that are available for any and all structural column problems.

• The  center of the steel support column does not have have the thickness (strength) to hold the additional support on the outside edges like the main floor beams. A problem such as this requires the replacement of the column (it is possible that after removal this column could be repaired by straightening the upper flange) with a new one and the addition of a thick steel plate to the bottom side of the beam in order to distribute the load to the center of the column. The steel plate should be at least a 1/2 inch thick and extend about a 1/2 inch past the width of the beam and should be square. In this case we have four 2x pieces of lumber making up the beam. At an actual width of 1 5/8 inch each the width of the beam would be 6 1/2 inches. Hence, a steel plate 7 1/2 inches square would be acceptable. The bigger and thicker the plate (within reason), the better. In order to replace the current support column with any other column, it is first necessary to take the load off of the support column. This means placing jacks on both sides of the support column to hold the upper structure in place, then jacking them up about 1/8 inch, and finally removing the current damaged support column.

• In some cases it is not the support column that has been damaged, but the floor below the support column. In the same manner, as we previously discussed about distributing the weight of the temporary support columns, in order to raise the floor by using a steel plate or 8 x 8 inch lumber, it is necessary to distribute the weight being carried by the support column. Most concrete floors are less than 4 inches thick and as a general statement contractors do not tamp down the earth below the floor, this does not make for a solid support for a structural column. A proper footing should be, at minimum, 8 inches thick and 2 feet square, and have a couple of pieces of rebar in the concrete inserted diagonally across the footing. The rebar should be tied together in the middle and be in the upper third of the footing when the concrete is poured. The concrete footing should not be connected to the concrete floor itself. When a column does not sit on a proper footing, it can actually break through the concrete. A support column needs to rest on a solid foundation and that foundation should not be the poured concrete basement floor, it should be a properly constructed footing.

SAGGING FLOORS
In homes that have a crawl space or basement, sagging floors can often be rectified quite easily by the insertion of a floor jack, or supporting posts or pillars. In many older homes the weakest point of the first floor’s joist system is commonly the area around the stairway to the basement. If the floors slope towards the stairway area, a floor jack or a series of floor jacks should be inserted under the lowest area to take the weight of the building. If the floor in the middle of a room is sagging or has a lot of bounce, a floor jack with a 4″x6″ piece of wood used on top of it supporting two or three joists, can be used to firm it up. Once the jacks are secured in place, they can be extended, exerting upward force on the building until the floors become level. In some cases the structure cannot be completely leveled, but the slope or sag can be lessened. Before installing floor jacks, a concrete footer (foundation) may need to be installed. Any broken joists or beams should be replaced. Floor jacks should only be raised a small amount every other day. A quarter of an inch every few days is probably enough. If the jacks are raised too quickly, the plaster work or joints in drywall will not have time to re-adjust to the repositioning and cracks will appear. Floor Jacks can be purchased at any construction material supplier.

Note: In the case of a massive structural failure, a floor jack alone will not be adequate and hence a professional contractor or structural engineer should be consulted.

These days people are frequently moving or relocating and with interest rates at where they are right now, it is no wonder that people are buying up houses to turn them into their new homes. Therefore, it is important to inspect the house thoroughly before deciding to buy it. Now, this means that a home inspector  will have to inspect the house that the home buyer is planning to purchase. A home inspection is a visual examination of all the major components of a home, including the physical structure and all its systems from the roof to the foundation. When you get a hold of a standard home inspector’s report, you will see that it includes an evaluation of the condition of the home’s heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems, the roof, attic, visible insulation, walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors, the foundation, basement, and other visible structures. The process is actually similar to giving your house a physical check-up. The home inspector is the doctor whose responsibility includes identifying problems or symptoms found. Once that is done, he will then refer you to the appropriate specialist  for further evaluation.

sagging-and-sloping-floors-5For an ordinary home buyer, you might find some of the problems enumerated in the home inspector’s report a bit difficult to understand. For instance, what does sagging floors mean? Does it mean you have to replace it immediately? Spend a lot of money? Or will it last for a few more years before you absolutely have to do something about its repairs? The cost for repairs is not getting any cheaper. As a home buyer, it is only natural that you would strive to protect yourself from spending more than you have to. In an effort to aid you on these issues, we have provided some answers to questions that you might have during or after the home inspection. If you have ever been in a building where you feel like you are getting pushed to one side and you cannot seem to stand up, you have either been drinking too much alcohol or the floor could be sloping. I was just in a store the other day that was full of antiques and glass, but I could hardly stand up because the floor was sloping enough to create what I would consider a liability issue to the store owner.

Sloping floors are not going to be that easy to fix and repair. Repairing these floors will require a little skill and it would be a good idea to hire a professional to repair the damage. This is not going to be a simple fix and this is probably the main reason most people never choose to fix their sloping floors.

What causes a sloping floor? Termite damage or dry rot destroying the wood framing, or it could be as simple as a water leak over a long period of time causing the building foundation to sink and become uneven. Poor soil conditions where it is either too sandy or is an expansive clay soil could be the culprit as well.
Sloping floors can be damaged from incorrect landscape drainage. This would involve water settling around the foundation of your home and over a period of time the weight of the house along with soil problems can create the building to start sloping to one side. Fixing these floors will require either pouring a new concrete slab, replacing the wood floor framing members, or replacing the actual building foundation itself. No matter how you look at it, the sloping floor is going to be a costly item to repair.
The number one contributor to a sloping floor again, like most damage done to a house, is going to be water. Do your best to keep the water away from the house using roof gutters and landscape drains. These items are relatively inexpensive compared to the costs involved in repairing sloping floors

For more on basement related solutions, click on to www.keystonebasementsystems.com

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, an engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/sagging-floors.shtml
http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Sloping-Floors.11149.html
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/blog/sagging-beams-and-sloping-floors/
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218584-2,00.html

Views to Save on Construction Cost

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

What could be the most cherished and proud possession one can have? Although, this is more likely to be a subjective matter, short-listing the optimal universal answer would not be an issue. Besides, I am quite sure you will agree with me your own ‘edifice ‘will be among your cherished possessions.

Creating something so large and important, which bears your mark on it, doesn’t come very easy on you. (And this factor, does not necessarily apply only to personal constructions, but to civic structures, too.) In this article, we would like to share some tips for cheering up your pocket.

Before we share our thoughts, it would be more helpful if you know which aspect of construction incurs the major part of the expenditure. According to most of the construction research reports published and as per the statements from engineers, major part of the investment is directed to the material cost (around 60%). 30% of the total budget is spent on labour, and approximately 10% cost is exhausted on miscellaneous aspects.

As per the ‘Building Materials and Technology Promotion Council , Government of India’, (as shown in the figure) major part of the total construction expenditure originates from the purchases of foundation structure-materials (like cement and bricks), followed by labour cost and fees for different professionals. Other disbursement is done on things like plumbing, paints, flooring, etc.

construction-costs4Having shared the relevant information about the construction costs, we will now share our thoughts on how one can pull down the construction cost by paying attention to the important aspects of constructing a building The Structure Outline

It is said, “Your best efforts are made before even you break the ground”. This is so true! Outlining the structure is nothing but making of a ‘laddering chart analysis’ that scrutinizes the deliverables in a project. Each succeeding level in this plan embodies a progressively more detailed description of each project deliverable. It also identifies a timeline required to complete a particular construction.

This systematic ‘branching off’ of the tasks, makes it very easy for the project manager to adhere to the timeline, making it possible to function as planned, and in response expurgating the likelihood of increase in the budget.

Pre-Commencement Estimation: Keeping in mind the estimation of costs (or your maximum budget), you should first plan and design carefully on the paper. This avoids blunders in the initial cost of construction and construction material, utilities, maintenance, etc.

Avoid unnecessary and (insanely) expensive features, which you can live without, despite not missing out much on the luxury part. But economical construction should not be confused with inferior construction. Poor quality of labour and substandard material can never be “cost-effective” in long run. Maintenance and repair cost in the future, very soon tires out the initial savings achieved by commencing inferior construction.

Discount Contractor Supplies: Some contractors can avail the discount on construction hardware as well as household appliances supplies. The manufacturers, from whom the discount is gained can be of an affluent status, ensuring the durability of the product. So getting discount doesn’t necessarily mean getting a shoddy product.

The supplies that are generally covered in the contractor discounts are fasteners (nuts and bolts, screws, nails, etc.), lumber, drywall, electrical appliances, plumbing materials, etc.

To look for a substantially low-cost discount contractor, internet is a good option. Many websites offer discount to their members through major outlets. These web-based outlets offer low prices on many items that builders and renovators use on regular basis. Other way to find such discounted home supplies is to visit discount home supply outlet that have such supplies at much lower cost than you find in any big chain-store.

You may also want to consider the option of using recycled materials that are retrieved from demolition sites. These materials are inspected and are in usable condition. These tools are available at much lower cost than others, moreover its environment friendly and avoids the waste of resources.

Green Construction:As the name suggests, you might as well have figured out that this is a practice that engages into building structures and using edifice methods that are environment friendly. In this practice more recycled materials are used while constructing buildings.

However, talking in regards with the cost, green techniques might come across as more expensive procedures, due to modern technologies. The saving of money, in case of green constructions, doesn’t come from the up-front cost, but rather it shows in the form of life-cycle cost. The buildings constructed by using green technology, are designed to consume little or no utility-supplied energy. You save money in the long run, by using more environment-efficient utilities that result in reduced energy bills. This gains you a tremendous benefit, when the prices of coal, oil, and natural gas seem to be mounting constantly. As a bottom-line you conserve resources and cut down on wastes, resulting in saving more money.

Good Drainage System Installation: There are certain aspects, while undertaking a construction work, which can not (and must not) be taken nonchalantly. Setting up the perfect drainage system is definitely one such thing. Disposing of the waste is a very critical task, which if not carried out properly or is performed using poor quality materials, causes not only lot of frustration and fatigue, but also a ridiculous money-squander on reassembling a new drainage system. Always make sure to select a competent drainage-system material, even though it costs a little more. This will be your one-time expenditure, and it will be money-well-spent.

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”

Source http://www.bmtpc.org/COST_OF_CONSTRUCTION/cost_of_construction_stage_wise.htm

Home Insulation:How Air Sealing Your Basement and Other Areas Can Be Beneficial

Thursday, November 26th, 2009

basement-air-sealing-1There can’t be a cheap and effective measure to ensure longevity of basement walls than proper Air -Sealing in basements. Besides, it also helps conserve energy. Basement air sealing prevents warm heated air from escaping and cold winter air from entering the heated space. By this method minor cracks or openings of the building are sealed using weather stripping, foam, caulk and other materials. According to the American Department of study, basement air sealing lowers space heating consumption by 18 to 30 percent.

HOW AIR INFILTRATES

The external cold air enters the house through various wide and hairline openings and cracks during thewindy or cold weather. Irrespective of the fact that  the basement is old or new, the best recommended strategy is to reduce air leakage to the greatest extent by maintaining  controlled ventilation.

PRIORITIES

Though outside walls, doors and windows are the main source for air leakage,  small cracks and openings hidden from normal view permits air leakage considerably. Many homeowners are unaware that cold air leaks into the house through small openings around the window frames and doors and even through chimneys and fireplaces. External air also enters living space from other unheated portions of the house, such as crawl spaces, basements and attics. Also known as bypasses, these pathways and openings connect the house to the basement, crawlspace or attic. To effectively reduce the air-infiltration, it is important to seal the big cavities, followed by penetrations and large cracks and the smaller seams and gaps.

basement-air-sealing-2AREAS THAT NEED TO BE WATCHED FOR AIR LEAKS

Air enters the building through cracks in ceilings, floors or walls, where the two walls meet and where the wall meets the interior door frame or ceiling. The other openings to watch out for include gaps through and around switch boxes and electrical outlets, recessed cabinets and lighting fixtures. One also needs to check the false ceilings such as bathroom soffits, kitchen soffits and pull-down stairs.

 Shower stall units and behind the bath tubs, plumbing connections, various floor cavities of finished attics located adjacent to several unconditioned attic spaces.

Often, these over-looked gaps of the house are more responsive to air leaks than the greater and obvious fissure found around doors and windows. As most leakage paths are driven based on the tendency of warm air to rise, very often, it is the attic that is the best and easiest place to stop the leaks. Before working on the attic insulation, sealing the leaks is highly important as the insulation would hide them, making them less accessible and the receptive points for external air. Air can blow in to the house if the cracks are not sealed prior to insulation thereby not allowing the desired level of energy savings.The dust carried by the external air stains the insulated area thus indicating the presence of cracks in the building.

Below are some openings to look out for:-

 Top openings of wall cavities of interior partitions, situated  in and around chimney

 Around the entry door or attic trap door

 Areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings, in and around the pipes (look behind your toilets and underneath your sinks) and

 Ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall

 The other areas to watch out for leaks are situated in the ductwork, wiring penetrations, plumbing chases through top plates of walls and in-between conditioned and attic space

 Bypasses happen at the framing’s key junctures (like attic-to-knee wall transitions), allowing huge quantities of air to leak in and out of the house. The band joist for door rough openings in the walls, windows, exterior sheathing, and drywall are primary spots for air leakage. The right materials are to be used to seal the leaks permanently.

basement-air-sealing-4WHICH MATERIALS TO BE USED

Many materials are available from home improvement stores or local hardware stores to seal the air links. To apply, you can use a combination of various air-sealing materials. Below is the list which offers guidelines and description to utilize the materials.

CAULK

It seals less than ½” gap. Select the grade (high temperature, exterior, interior) based on the area of application and go through the  cleanup and application information instructed by the manufacturer. .

SPRAY FOAM

Helps fill small holes and large cracks. It could be messy if not very careful. Latex-related foams are the best suggested in spray foams. It is advised not to use this near flammable areas of the building.

BACKER ROD

Rope caulk or closed-cell foam. Simply press into gap or crack with putty knife or screwdriver. Very often, the backer rod is used along with door rough openings and cracks around window sill.

 House Wrap: This is usually installed over exterior sheathing. It needs to be sealed with caulk or house wrap tape which forms airtight seals. Though it resists water, it isn’t a vapor barrier.

 Insulation: Several forms of insulation could be utilized to stuff large bypasses or holes only when they are used with various other air sealing materials.

 Sheet goods (rigid foam, drywall and plywood insulation): These materials help to form air barriers. Usually, the air leaks at unsealed penetrations or seams.

 Sheet metal: This is used with high temperature caulk to seal various components such as chimneys and flues.

basement-air-sealing-5Polyethylene plastic: These inexpensive materials, when used for air sealing purposes, stop the diffusion of vapor. For effective air barrier, all penetrations and edges need to be completely sealed off. As poly tears easily, it has to be well placed to prevent the warm inside air from penetrating out through the ceilings or walls.

 Storm window Kits: These are available at any hardware or home improvement store. You can easily apply them over leaky windows.

 Weather stripping: You can use them to seal various moveable components, like attic accesses, windows and doors.

 Foil-faced or mastic tape: This seals all duct connections, joints and air handlers. For clean surfaces, always apply foil tape.

Using the above mentioned air-sealing materials, you can treat the below mentioned areas:-

 Upper portions of wall cavities of interior partition wall – Just staple plastic sheets over openings and seal them near edges with high quality caulk material.

 Around chimneys – pack gaps around insulated chimney with unfaced fiber glass insulation or rock wool.

 Avoid sealing hot and bare flue pipes with various combustible products.

 Around the entry door or attic trap door – just weather strip the edges. On the attic side of the door, place rigid foam insulation.

 For areas above dropped ceilings and staircase ceilings – simply staple plastic sheet over openings, sealing them with high quality caulking material around the edges.

 Look around the pipes (behind your toilets and under the sinks) and ducts penetrating the attic floor or wall – tightly packed insulation into gaps. You can also fill the area around it with polyurethane foam.

basement-air-sealing-6 On some occasions, the joints between floors and walls permit easy passage of air between the outdoor attic area and the heated part of the house. You can easily search for these joints in the space over porch ceiling or in the attic.

 Generally, these air leakage paths are found in Cape Cod type houses or in those instances when the attic space is transformed into living space. Similar arrangements take place when the second floor of three floored house appear larger than the ground floor, with overhand outdoors.

 A large source of air leakage is the joints located between the side walls and porch roof. If you can reach such areas, you can stop the leaks by covering the openings with plywood.

 If you find the areas difficult to reach, you can reduce the air leakage greatly by injecting foam insulation or high density insulation to the joints, reducing their air pathways.

 And, if the windows leak excessively, consider installation of plastic storm window kit, which is inexpensive and easy to install.

AIR SEALING

Before weather stripping, adjust the door to improve the seal. Also check the catch plate to ensure that the door shuts tightly against weather stripping. In an area where the floor meets the door, see to it that the threshold is adjusted to minimize infiltration. If the threshold isn’t sealed properly or is missing, you can install the weather seal. To improve door seal, simply install the door sweep. Though storm doors are advisable, they won’t be cost effective like storm windows. Duct leaks help reduce the amount of cooled or heated air which gets delivered into living spaces. In several older houses which have forced – air furnace, nearly 20 % of heated air is wasted through leaks, without getting delivered to the living spaces.

basement-air-sealing-7As compensation, homeowners simply turn the thermostat up, to receive the heat they require, which unnecessarily raise their heating bills. A highly effective conservation measure would be to seal all the duct leaks. While sealing the ducts, you can ensure that you use proper foil tape or mastic tape. The fabric type duct tape turns out to be highly ineffective as the adhesive dries after six months.

Homeowners can stop leaks from doors and windows either by weather stripping and caulking or by simply installing the plastic storm window kits from home improvement or hardware stores. Sealing of basement air leaks need attention to detail as even small leaks may cause significant loss of heat. Adequately sealed homes offer a comfortable environment, saving energy and unnecessary hassles for homeowners. If you feel that you are spending much on your electric bills in the event of heating your house, think about a professional who can help you identify and fix the concealed gaps and help you save energy.

If you are a resident of Pennsylvania suffering from basement problems, call us at 800-771-3244 or visit us at http://www.keystonebasementsystems.com/about-us.html.

You may also contact Aaron Stull -IAQA expert on the official IAQ site: - Email Member

“Keystone Basement Systems, Inc. is a foundation repair company. KBS is not, however, a engineering firm and should not be considered as such.”